I was thinking that if you had something like my posted image, would this create enough pressure to activate the ports? Im just thinking that the exhaust velocity would create a pressure difference when it enters the tube, its hard to explain typing it out...

 

Well that is exactly how the S4 N/A system works from the factory.

 

Or this: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html

 

Drawing that picture in paint was harder than reading and learning...

 

I know how it works, i may be getting a header that doesnt have a split air tube, so i was thinking of welding something like this in to activate the ports, my post probably made no sense whatsoever. im just thinking since i wont have much back pressure i could make up for it with exhaust flow creating a pressure difference as it enters the smaller tube.

 

Oh, I get it. A different way to activate the 6th ports- exactly like all S4 headers have...

 

In your opinion would welding something like this into an aftermarket header be enough to activate the ports,or should i just spend the extra and do electronic activation? I guess my use of "different" doesnt really fit.

 

If you have an idea that involves ms paint then it's probably garbage.

 

The way my friends NA is...

Ford electric vacuum pump scavenged from a junkyard, lines go from it to the actuators.
MSD window switch the turns a relay on and off at 3XXXrpms... he can adjust it to where he wants it...
Vacuum pump is tirggered, they open, everything works...

 

**** that is harsh, but funny

the electronic way will give you better control of when it opens

 

it would have to be a pressure pump as opposed to a vacuum pump correct?

 

just remover them. ****, take the intake manifold off, remove them, the rods, and the actuators. end of headache.

 

If i where to do that what would i lose under say 4000 rpm? And does fuel economy go down? Is it as big of a loss in performance down low as ive read or is it just one of those over hyped things

 

Its more of a headache to remove the manifolds and ect then it is worth fixing them properly.

They are removed on my n/a by the previous owner. I would never suggest doing that. Overall lose of low end power with no extra high end power. Also fuel mileage does decrease. Mazda put them there for a reason....

 

u should just fart into them

 

i did that as well with completely opposite **** happening.
i actually made way more hp as well.

 

By removing them you will definitely lose a bit of low end power but you will feel the difference in a higher RPM range. I guess the question should be: What type of driving are you trying to do? I road raced my car so taking them out was an advantage. Gas mileage will get a tiny bit worse...

If this is your daily driver, fix them.

 

lol

ok...say you have two racecars that are identical in every way except for there engines. Car 1 removed his 6ports and makes more HP than car 2. Car 2 kept his 6 ports and makes less HP than car 1. Suppose these ms paint dyno graphs represent the power outputs. Which car is faster?

 

car 2

 

we can speculate all day, but im firm on my answer.

 

in my experience the exhaust makes a huge difference.

i did this on a 1st gen with an FC engine. with a short header and 1.75" pipe to the muffler, open 6 ports killed ALL the power under 4500, it SUCKED.

putting on the long primary 2" pipe system, power from idle to 4000 with the 6 ports open was about the same as the short system with the 6 ports hooked up.

hooking up the 6 ports with the good exhaust was the best overall

 

i know what ya saying, but i did not have a stock FC at all. megasquirted with a full exhaust. made some nice hp with everything removed.

 

I did the electric air pump thing (unreliable over time) and I did the aux ports wired open thing (annoying to drive around town).

My advice to you is this: recreate the s5 setup in a way by using the smog pump. Use an rtek 2.1's rpm switch capability to activate a 2 way solenoid valve to control air to the actuators, kind of like the FD or s5 boost control solenoid. Feed the solenoid with air from the factory smog pump. That will be bulletproof (if the sleeves still rotate) and adjustable, without a box under the hood. You'll have fuel, timing, and aux port control for the cost of the Rtek and some OEM parts. FD boost control solenoids are cheap plentiful, and so are FC smog pumps.

 

And you should go back to the dirty glove that you came from.


The mods you have make up for the aux porting being removed i suppose.

Also car #2 would be better IMHO, you have ALMOST the same high end power without the loss of low end power. Ive heard many times before if you have 2 n/a rx7s that are exactly the same but one has the aux ports and ones doesn't, then the one with the aux ports would have a better chance winning in a race.

To the OP: if your car is mostly stock and is daily driven then stick with the aux ports and be happy...