hey so im gonna be doing my very first rotory bebuild.
what specialty tools do i need? ''my dads a tv repai man he's got this ultimate set of tools''
also looking to port my 13b its an N/A so i wanna squeese as much power out of it as i can but have it still streetable. with a large street port will i need a new ecu or will the stock addapt, same question as far as bridge porting.

anytips or advise is much appricated
ps intake and exast porting im fairly instested.


ps puting a v8 in and rx7 is treason

 

The only special tool you need is a 54MM / 2 1/8" socket to remove the flywheel nut.

Tools that you might not have but will need to make some basic measurements are a caliper, feeler gauges, straight edge.

For porting, there are many methods. My preferred method is a Dremel tool with a selection of bits including carbide bit (for aluminium), grinding stones (for the irons) and sand paper rolls.

These videos will help you in the process of rebuild a 13B or 12A engine. While they deal with an older 13B from an RX-5 Cosmo, the engine internals are basically the same for any 12A or 13B. The only real difference is that on engines newer than '85, the coolant O-rings are in the irons instead of the housings as shown in this video.

The first video is engine removal. While it is an RX-5 Cosmo, an car that few will ever see let alone work on, the process will give you the general idea of an engine removal. Steps are similar for most rotary vehicles, it's the details that differ.


The next video is engine disassembly and some cleaning. This is an old carbureted 13B so the accessories bolted to the engine are different than newer engines. However the process of externally disassembling any rotary is about the same. Covered here is also flywheel removal (same for any rotary) and engine parts cleaning.


Cleaning of all engine parts continues in this video. Provided here are examples of how this is accomplished with a minimum of tools and supplies. It's a lot of labor to clean old parts until they are looking new again. At the same time, parts should be inspected.


Finally, here is the engine assembly. This video includes clearancing side seals, assembling all the seals onto the rotor, then assembling all the parts into a 13B short block.


If you wan to have a little more fun:

 

Looks like he got the right guy to respond!

 

thanks bro. looks like u hooked me up with all the info i need, much appricated thanks alot.
P.s your awesome

 

Aaroncake is the man. Your videos kill me from laughter but I've learned 90% of my rotary knowledge and skills through your resources.

Josef, if you follow Aaroncake's videos you'll be golden. Check out his website for even more help. Aaroncake.net

 

General consensus seems to be a Bridgeport and the stock ECU don't play well together. Street port should be fine. I myself wonder what constitutes a large street port and don't know how big you can go before the stock ECU has trouble. Still eventually getting a standalone would let you get the most out of it. Do not hog out the secondary and aux ports into one big port.

From Mazdatrix "If the separate ports (in the end housings) are simply made into one large port, the bottom and mid-range torque suffer a lot, and the port velocity is compromised as the intake flows from the manifold into the intake runner. The intake port timing of this configuration is: later on opening than a peripheral port, but roughly equal to intake closing on a peripheral port! That's a LOT of timing and port volume for a street car. There are MANY combos that could be tried here. We have spent a LOT of time on our engine dyno and have have been very successful in making this type (VERY large) work on our road-race cars, but only at VERY high RPM-- meaning above 9000!"

I used the Pineapple Racing templates on mine. I used their EP2 exhaust port which I think is a medium street port on the exhaust. Don't know what their intake is considered. I am still on the stock ECU. Noticeable increase in the mid to top end and it now pulls all the way to the 8500 rev limit. I do have a header and full exhaust. Not sure of the results without it. You either need turbo rotor housings or replace the sleeves in the non-turbo housings in order to port the exhaust. Also look through Aaron Cake's videos on Youtube. He has one on porting and it is pretty much what I used as a guide when I ported mine. Wealth of information that guy.

Here a link about porting in case you haven't seen it already:
https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/porting.htm

 

don't even bother porting a 6 port intake, however for a turbo you should remove the exhaust sleeves and switch to turbo ones.

 

Saying this raises the question of where did the gains I felt from the street port come from? Predominately the exhaust porting? I did use Turbo rotor housings and also did some work on the inlet of the RB header to smooth the flow into it. Before it was dead by 7500rpm now it pulls past redline. Only changes were the porting and a lightweight flywheel.

 

take a look at that n/a exhaust port sleeve again and you tell me.

in recent years i have just been telling people not to waste their money on porting the 6 port intake, i have been telling them to get rid of that stupid wing for much less work involved for equal benefit. funny thing is most any shop will gladly sell you an intake port job, maybe that's why my signature exists.

 

I can't argue there. Looks pretty restrictive, plus I opened my exhaust a good bit compared to the stock port.

Luckily I was only out the $45 for the template since I ported it myself. Plus bits but I've used them on other things since then so they've been quite useful.

I have noticed an attitude change since you've been back. I don't know what went down behind the scenes but it's too bad. You're one of only a handful who when I do have a question I hope chimes in as you always seem to be spot on with your answers.

 

losing 20k posts and status was one hit, losing the account was another. the owners of the forum apparently don't care about the history i put into the forum and would probably be a good enough reason to not wanna continue supporting it.

every time i turn around here lately it feels like i'm starting over. i'm getting too old for the ****, in fact i'm just about done writing my resume to go back to work for the stealerships.

 

port all the things.

 

I agree with you partially.

When my engine was rebuilt, I went ahead and had it very mildly street ported. When I say mild, it isn't a full street port that most people refer to.

The NA wings got plasma cut out of the sleeves and then ground down to be smooth and exhaust port opened up a bit. Then the primary port was cut to open slightly earlier and close slightly later but not as to the extent of the 4 port engine primaries. The secondaries got left alone.

I do agree with you that the secondaries need to be left the **** alone.

I have a very strong NA motor. Forum member Jackhild took a ride with me when he helped me fix my AC and he said "wow".

 

Pretty much the strongest na I've ridden in. Rotary Performance is an elite rotary shop. They did the rebuild, right? They know what they are doing.

Now you need some boost!

-jack

 

Yes they did.