WondrousBread

I need to replace the little cam that cancels the turn signals (the brittle one that sits under the steering wheel and has two nubs). The part number is FB01-66-126. Atkins and Mazdatrix both list it as NLA.

Does anyone have a source for these? Otherwise my best option is to find a way to 3d print one, but I haven't a file to print nor a 3d printer so that would be a bit more involved.

Thanks, Chris.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Used is your only option, for the OEM part.

I am a design engineer and actually had one of our MEs draft up something and 3D print it a few years ago. It’s been working perfectly. It was for use with an aftermarket hub so it needed to be shorter, not sure we have a file of the full height part. I can inquire when we return to work after the holiday.

WondrousBread

Wow, I would really appreciate that. Thank you

I'm using an NRG hub, so the shorter one is fine. That's probably part of why my original broke.

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

The only way to get new is to buy the whole cancel switch. I did so recently, but because I had the horn contact pin break off and could not find a suitable solution that was as quiet as OEM. A 3D printed version is a great way to go if nothing else is wrong with the switch.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Chris sent me a PM, reminding me I never got back on here and made the file upload...as promised, see attached.

STL is to import into a 3D printer, STP is to import into CAD.
File is 50% original height.
The print is clearly not an "exact" replica of the original part down to every last detail...unnecessary. It is functionally equivalent though, besides the reduced height.
I probably have a damaged original vs. a 75% and 60% height part we also printed, I should find them and post up a picture.

I've been using it for about a year now and works great with my aftermarket hub! No more crushed cancel rings...

WondrousBread

Awesome, thank you so much! This is a life-saver. I get the impression we're going to be printing more and more parts in the future, unless Mazda radically expands that heritage parts program.

Thanks again

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

As promised, I found the OEM piece and the unused 75% and 60% height 3D prints. You can see every detail isn’t replicated exactly, but is functional.

Tyrannosaurus Wrex

Hey Daniel, when printing the turn signal cancel cam did you have to make supports for the structure itself or can it be printed out right with no issues?

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

I’m assuming since you’re asking, you’ll understand the answer I was given

If you’re using an FDM, you’ll only need support material at the base where the two little nubs are.

we have a $150k powder printer, so wasn’t necessary for us.

Tyrannosaurus Wrex

Thank you kindly, I have a Snap Maker 2 and the software that I am using with it doesn't allow for the automatic creation of the support scaffolding, I was wondering if you have any pointers about that? I am still very much new to the 3d printing world.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

I don’t, sorry. I’m an electrical engineer, that’s why I asked our mechanical engineer to do all this stuff and I just forwarded his comments on to you.

WondrousBread

I'm also new to it, but I have some pointers since I was able to successfully print the part last night. I used Cura for the slicing; it created the support for me. I used the following settings:

Support: Under all overhangs, 10% density
Adhesion: Brim (I had adhesion issues on the first attempt).

This is with a heated bed at 60 degrees, PLA filament. I doubt PLA will survive in a hot car without deforming or softening, so later I'm printing it in ABS and will share those settings as well as pictures. I don't have an enclosure but this part is small so we'll see if it will work without.

Be careful removing the supports, even at 10% density I snapped one of the little nubs on the bottom and had to JB weld it back on. I'm not worried since this was a test piece, but annealing it may be a good idea for the final piece.

WondrousBread

So I printed one out of ABS which has fared much better. I made a few test pieces; the settings are identical to the PLA settings except the nozzle and bed temperature. I used 240C/110C respectively, but this will obviously depend on the filament you're using.

Contrary to what I mentioned last time, don't anneal it. No matter how accurate your oven is it will deform and shrink slightly. I had never tried annealing plastic before and I don't think I'll be doing it again. Try to use as hot a nozzle temperature as you can so the layers fuse well, since the stress on the nubs on the cam can make them shear sideways along the layer where they meet the round part.

I installed the piece (it fits perfectly), made sure the mechanism was spinning okay, put the wheel back on, turned key to ignition, and... My turn signals still don't cancel. So unless the engine needs to be running for the cancel function to work (doubtful) I need to dig into this further. But the files DC5Daniel provided work really well, so at least we have a new source for that part now

S5 Matt

Is this 3D printed example for a car with the indicators mounted on the steering column or mounted in the cluster hood?