i wonder how it holds on the bumbers??
guess time will tell...

*edit* im talking as far as cracking and such...

 

well i have flexed the front bumper quite a bit with geting it to fit over the greddy intercooler. It seems very flexible, mutch more so than i would expect.

 

damn nice thread going here, makes me want to paint my 10th AE. I wonder if this would work pretty well on the engine bay considering its a good corrosion resistance and such?

but +1 for doing it!

 

hey snowball did u get a bunch of orange peel on ur few initial coats? i just wet sanded the first 2 coats really smooth and then when i went to put the 3rd coat on im getting orange peel, do u think my mixture is off maybe or is it supose to do this?

 

hey snowball,

will you be doing your rims to match?

 

did the first 2 coats show alot of roller marks? im doing flat black and it is showing just about every roller mark.

the paint feels smooth to the touch but shows the marks plain as day.

any advice or is this normal?

 

In order
*RX007* its hard to say if your mixture is off without feeling the paint my self, it will orange peel a tiny bit no matter what. Thats why you need to wet sand every 2 coats. I wish their was a way to explain this and show the mixture to you over the internet but i cant you just have to get a feel of the paint over time.

capn Yes i will match the wheels, but not with this exact method, I'll be using a spray can.

sleeperfc The first 2 coats will show the roller marks, its not until the 4th coat really that you will be thick enough not to see the surface your painting on at all.

 

I prepped a first gen fender today for paint. I'm going to try it within the next couple of days when I get a break between work and assuming the weather holds out. I will be spraying mine. It's a fairly cheap spray gun so I'm not too sure how well it will come out. Then again people are rolling it on so sanding should take care of that problem. Will post the results when I get them. I don't anticipate having a whole car painted for some time.

 

snowball, that's looking much better than I expected really good. I recently finished painting my car myself also, but I did it with a paintgun and automotive paint. The only thing I'd be thinking is that that paint will probably chip easily but for the $$ if it only lasts a couple years who cares.

 

ok i think this is a question already asked and might just be a general paint question that i should already know, BUT when rolled on my 3rd and 4th coats, i seem to be getting a line of extra paint off the side of the roller after rolling so when it dries, it dreis as a high spot.

how can i prevent this?
will a foam brush work?
will the paint smoothen it out on my next coat? (fill in low spots etc.)

thanks
steve-o

 

skatingsamurai, sounds like your doing 1 of 2 things not cuting the paint thin enough or pressing down to much.
after you paint run the roller over the panel with no presure at all just the weight of the roller. if that doesn't get rid of the line the paint is too thick.

 

alright thanks

how should i go about getting rid of the existing lumps?? there not very big at all i can bearly feel em but if i put a light at 45 degrees i can see em. think i should go back down to 400 on the areas then progressivly sand higher?

or should i take the whole hood down with 400

thanks
steve-o

 

BTW. ill make sure to just glide over the surface this time. i think i was worried about maximizing coverage with as little of paint as possible

 

if their not bad you should be able to get rid of them when you do your 800 wet sand. if they dont go away switch to something with a bit more grit.

 

I did the same thing with my hood since it was the first thing i painted. lot of wet sanding fixed it.

 

Now, I have not painted a car with foam roller (yet), but I have done lots and lots and lots of painting with rollers. I got some good coaching from a professional painter about 20 years ago. Her tip was that most beginning painters made two critical mistakes: they did not properly load the roller with enough paint and then they tried to roll the paint too far before reloading the roller. The result of these errors was always roller lines and paint applied in too thin coats for the paint to perform properly by filling in and levelling the texture left by the roller. If you have to press down to cover, it is time to reload the roller.


I can't tell you how much that means for your paint, but there may be a little info to help you there.

Good luck!

 

good advice jackhild59 thats also the reason you thin this paint so much, otherwise one coat would be 1/16th of an inch deep and look like ****.

 

I believe a good roller job is way better than a cheap job at maaco's or etc shops.

 

someone asked about painting the engine bay with this stuff.... well let me tell you they sell this rustoleum in a can. exact same **** and it works flawlessly!

this is my engine bay right after the swap. i only put down 2 coats from only 2 cans. the stuff goes on really smooth, NO LINES!



i had been planning to paint my whole car this same gloss white that the 10thAE is getting painted for a couple months. i've had the materials forever but only did the engine bay. i should be able to paint my car within the next week or so when this damn rain stops but i can attest to this **** being very strong. i spray my engine bay down once every week using harsh degreasers and high pressure water and it leaves the paint clean. doesn't eat it away or nothin. LOVE THIS PAINT!

 

Yup, everyone always makes those mistakes with rollers. If you don't keep the roller properly saturated, and you overdo without refilling, you will get a matted useless roller. The last guy I worked with was a master painter of over 30 years, and damn he slopped that **** on. Learned that you can paint one 3,000 square foot house (stucco) with one roller though lol

Sorry for the earlier jackasseries jack.

 

Don't sweat it man. I'm just here to learn and to have fun. I try to do a little of both everyday.

 

was this using the same method? thinning the paint and sanding.

 

^^????? He says it is the Rustoleum that comes in a can.

 

I think he means spray can (rattle can). The same colors are available in spray cans or in the quart can used with the roller. He sprayed it while the motor was out of the car so he had good access. Pretty handy for the area under hood where it would be impractical to roll the paint.

 

update:
ONLY ONE MORE COAT!!!!!