kevino

I need to replace all four of my oil injector lines since all of them broke during removal. The cheapest price I found so far was about 95 dollars. I am wondering is there any other type of lines I could use that would cost less and offer equal performance?
thanks

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

Yes, 1/8" pipe plugs, a block of plate and pre-mix.

If yours are cracked etc and you need to replace them, I have a complete set brand new with insulation I'm not using...

kevino

First of all, what are the side effects of pre mix? Clogging of the fuel filter? Clogging of/damage to injectors? Second, how much would you charge for your set?
thanks

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

There are no side effects to pre-mix...except forgetting to do it and the convienence factor which is nil in my mind. Check out this explanation of it, probaly the best out there

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/premix.html

I'd sell all 4 lines lines for $50. That's what I paid through Mazdaspeed and that is the racers price, typically 15-30% less than retail. Actually I have the entire metering oil system..new (copper washers, injectors etc); except the distibution block.

pm me if interested in any of it

gambone

iTrader: (3)

Oil injector will put more of the oil where it is needed and you well have to use less of. there is a low perssure 1/8 fuel line which I have used and have not any problems yet.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There are quite a number of people who will disagree with this, and for good reason too.

Anyway, I used small stainless braided to replace my (age hardened) metering oil lines. Just use little crimp sleeves to hold them onto the banjo bolts.

WAYNE88N/A

you don't premix, Aaron? Why?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Nope...I don't believe that premix provides superior lubrication. The stock oil dribblers directly oil the apex seals, and I believe that regular crankcase oil sticks around much better then two stroke oil. Tina's engine survived for 250,000 KM (the tail end of that under boost) on the stock metering oil system and still looks new inside.

I've pulled apart engines that have been premixed all their life, and still show the 2MM carbon deposit, and characteristic clean spots in the center of the apex seal.

But anyway, this is OT for this thread.

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

There are two camps to this topic. I am in the other one. Pre-mix was designed to lubricate even after burning. For those interested, there are MANY threads covering this debate.
btw, pre-mix is better

White_FC

Yeah funny how every rotary race car i've seen has been running on premix....
:p

Even Mazda seem to think its better... (R26b and its predecessors..)

ddub

Question, though. Do those rotary race cars still have the metering oil pump still in there? Meaning they have the normal oil injection along WITH premix? Because in that case the premixing would just be extra lubrication in addition to the normal amount, which would be understandable for why they do it. Just curious if you know or not.

And btw, I premix

White_FC

No, they don't still have the stock OMP.

Kenteth

premix :P

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Because we all know, what works perfectly on the track is best for the street...

Plus, I don't want to **** around with dumping 2 stroke oil in my tank, nor do I want the added expense.

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

i just used some silicone line for mine and so far so good...has lasted about 2 years and 25000 miles!

HAILERS

Two years ago I bought some small engine fuel hose from a local harware store. Removed all the old lines and clamps. Installed the new fuel line on the nipples and all is well to this day. No drippy. Oil flows. Cost? Minimal. Maybe, just maybe five bucks...ten at the very top end. Some of my valuable time was involved.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=fuel+line

White_FC

Of course not, but it certainly _does_ show what is best for the engine...

This goes hand in hand with this top comment, obviously if you can't be stuffed to put it in the tank then the stock MOP is for you. Mazda were obviously cartering to you, aswell as 99% of the rest of people that bought rotaries, when they decided to put the MOP there instead of telling people that they need to put 2-stroke in every tank of fuel.

Doesn't mean it's better for the engine..

frestylereaction

dude....you put in about 4oz per fillup right before putting gas in

the bottle is about 2 dollars.....

so youre doing what?....spending 5 more seconds at the pump and spending about 33 cents more

and no ...the stock MOP is not better than premix.....

just suck it up aaron, or admit your lazy

kevino

Hailers,

I imagine the hoses you bought were flexible, right? Did you insulate them? Tie them away from the engine? I'm just worried if I use this type of line it might come in contact witht the engine a burn a hole.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Or they were simply trying to save weight...

That damn premix is also pretty expensive too...Adds about $6 to the cost of a fillup (at least, based on the prices around here).

My car is not a 2 stroke lawnmower. And isn't 4 ounces not nearly enough? I thought the ratio was roughly 100:1 or thereabouts?

See my post above about the price.

Prove it.

You're joking, right? I mean seriously, you must be if you're calling me lazy...

scathcart

$1.99cdn per 500 mL of TCW-3 2-stroke oil at your local Canadian Tire. Prices for Canadian Tire do not differ across canada.

Add 500 ml to a full tank for desired effects.


I'm going to have to guess that Aaron's standpoint comes from sheer inexperience. (Generalisation) Any engine rebuilder, including myself, that has experienced the differences in trochoid surface/apex seal height wear will attest to the superiority of premix.

You say that you have seen an engine that run premix all its life, yet it still had carbon build-up... that's a pretty poor reference. You know your chemistry; the build-up of carbon also comes from umcomplete combustion of gasoline. By comparing a single engine, you have too many factors to take into account, with engine running condition being the chief factor.
Do you measure apex seal wear differences and compared it to an average for similar milage engines? Doubtful. Have you compared internals from several premix engines to several MOP engines to account for any fluke indescrepencies in engine tuning? Doubtful.

An engine's vacuum at idle is directly related to its sealing ability. This is simple... as an engine wears, you can watch a decrease in idle engine vacuum. Now, countless FD owners, and many FC owners, have noted an increase in idle engine vacuum after a change to premix, with all other factors the same. How can you possibly deny that this increase in vacuum comes from anything other than increased sealing fluid around the combustion chamber seals? If premix didn't lube as well, vacuum would be decreased.

Do you honestly believe that the Mazda R26B, an engine designed for racing endurance, would make any care of an extra 500 grams of weight for a MOP if it truly provided superior lubrication? Hell no. They ran premix because it lubricates better. Not recognizing this is either ignorance or stupidity.

Mazda recognizes this as superior lubrication... (you don't use second rate materials to build Le Man's Champions) but do you honestly think they would have pulled off a requirement for a second oil? Honestly now. They designed the MOP as a compromise to the general public, not because it offers the best lubrication. Do you deny this?

Sometimes I think you only stand by your comments because you like to be controversial...

NZConvertible

Can we have this discussion (again...) somewhere else?

von

SCATHCART

Dam! well said..Bravo Bravo

Ima use premix now thanks Scathcart.

RXSevenSymphonies

iTrader: (2)

I love you scathcart.

HAILERS

As flexible as the original. Yes, I ran them so they don't chaff on anything, much as the original. Use the small tie wraps found at HomeDepot, Radio Shack, your local autostore.

Ignore the nonsense above and just put new lines on. (that's the smiley with the the tongue sticking out ).