I am familiar with Dry sump oiling, but can't understand why Pineapple racing charges $3000 or more for this. What is all involved in thier system?
I think I could build a dry sump system for around $1600, doing my own labour, of course.
Not thinking about this for my FC, (Dry sump on a 13B is for racing only) just more thoughts for oiling that 6 rotor idea of mine. Doubt any available wet sump pump would provide sufficient volume and pressure.
Sean Cathcart

 

****, I didn't mean to put this in the 20B specific section... oh well.
All the smart guys come in here anyway.
Sean Cathcart

 

$800 for a 3-stage dry sump oil pump
$800 for the oil reservior
You still need the lines and fittings (~$500, since we're talking at least -10AN), custom oil pan, and custom pick-up in the oil pan.
My estimate puts it at around $2,500 at LEAST for just the materials and components - that's pretty close to $3,000 from Pineapple...



-Ted

 

Ted's got it right.

You'll want remote mounted oil filters (dual).

There are housing modifications required too.

If you can get a complete dry sump system for $3K from Pineapple, that sounds pretty good.

 

if you look at www.mazdamotorsports.com you will see that there are a lot of scavenge tubes and things, unfortunatly 2500-3000 sounds about right (wish it was cheaper)

mike

 

A guy here in NZ made a dry sump system using 4 VW oil pumps. He reconds it works well. Its on a 3 rotor race car. He is going to go to a four rotor and use the same system.
Kiwi injinuity (spelling??)

 

4 stock oil pumps from a VW...
I'm sorry man, but if I had the money and looking for a dry sump system, I wouldn't trust it to a bunch of stock parts that just added a failure factor of 4 to the whole engine...


-Ted

 

This guy has been using this for years he said (nothing around cheap enough at the time) no problems he says.
But Vw, yeah bit of a worry

 

I've seen some cars that used the stock oil pump as the scavenge pump, and a modified automatic tranny pump as the pressure pump. Weird wild stuff.

Heck on our cars it'd be easier to do that. Route the oil coming out of the front cover into a tank, suitably designed so bubbles break up easily. Then the pressure pump draws from the bottom of the tank, pumps through the oil cooler, etc. Heck as a bonus you could also directly re-route the rear pressure regulator's output to the tank as well, instead of just dumping it out for the scavenge pump to pick up.

 

whats a dry sump oil system? and whats a wet sump.....

 

http://www.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

 

hmmm, this would be a reason to have an OMP replacement, but thats a seperate device (maybe have it RPM driven instead of electronically staged from the computer)

are there EFI type injectors that could handle oil? if so, have it as a 5th injector and 6th injector (front and rear rotor) and use it like that on a standalone setup

 

It's probably OK just to modify your OMP to a constant drip. You might need to adjust the drip rate a few times to get it right, though.
Pre-mixing could be another solution, but woe is the one who forgets their TC-W3 in the next tank. Not a permanent solution, IMO.

 

If you are talking about oil injection into the intake, most ECUs will have an AUX output that can be configured to run pressure and RPM based triggering. If you use this to a solonoid you ca step the oilers up without the ill effect of fouling plugs or smoke on idle. Although this has nothing to do with DRY Sumping.
Regards-Anthony