Rear differential and clutch
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Rear differential and clutch
I have a 1985 gsl. Theres a lot of rotational play in the driveshaft from the transmission to the rear differential, about an inch, and the driveshaft makes a clunk noise when i release the clutch because of how much play it has. I drained the oil in the rear differential and saw metal grains so im assuming im gonna need to replace it fairly soon lol. Does anyone know any good resources i can get a newish differential or a rebuild kit? Also my clutch gets skippy and jumpy when im easing off the clutch sometimes and i believe the person selling it said it was a new clutch. Does anyone know anything about that?
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
for the clutch, what do you mean by "skipping"? can you describe.
for the rear end, are you absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with the driveshaft itself (bad u-joint)? seeing metal in and of itself is not completely abnormal especially if you don't know if the maintenance was kept up with. as long as we're not talking about chunks or large bits, it may be okay. i don't know because i didn't see it, but just keep it in mind.
if the rear is going bad, then it can be rebuilt. for parts, obviously check the usual suspects first: Mazdatrix, RB, Atkins, etc.. replacing the entire rear is an option, but from what i've seen in casual glances, they are not cheap (used to be able to get one between $100-200) any more. i don't know how much it costs to rebuilt one since i've never had to do it.
here are some links:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...torial-711712/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...advice-871945/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...build-1021713/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ential-355326/
now, with all that said ... i just read your other thread, so are you fixing this or replacing it with Gen 2 parts? is your Gen 2 swap idea because you think you might not be able to fix it? just trying to understand.
for the rear end, are you absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with the driveshaft itself (bad u-joint)? seeing metal in and of itself is not completely abnormal especially if you don't know if the maintenance was kept up with. as long as we're not talking about chunks or large bits, it may be okay. i don't know because i didn't see it, but just keep it in mind.
if the rear is going bad, then it can be rebuilt. for parts, obviously check the usual suspects first: Mazdatrix, RB, Atkins, etc.. replacing the entire rear is an option, but from what i've seen in casual glances, they are not cheap (used to be able to get one between $100-200) any more. i don't know how much it costs to rebuilt one since i've never had to do it.
here are some links:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...torial-711712/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...advice-871945/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...build-1021713/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ential-355326/
now, with all that said ... i just read your other thread, so are you fixing this or replacing it with Gen 2 parts? is your Gen 2 swap idea because you think you might not be able to fix it? just trying to understand.
The following users liked this post:
mazdaverx713b (07-07-23)
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
for the clutch, what do you mean by "skipping"? can you describe.
for the rear end, are you absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with the driveshaft itself (bad u-joint)? seeing metal in and of itself is not completely abnormal especially if you don't know if the maintenance was kept up with. as long as we're not talking about chunks or large bits, it may be okay. i don't know because i didn't see it, but just keep it in mind.
if the rear is going bad, then it can be rebuilt. for parts, obviously check the usual suspects first: Mazdatrix, RB, Atkins, etc.. replacing the entire rear is an option, but from what i've seen in casual glances, they are not cheap (used to be able to get one between $100-200) any more. i don't know how much it costs to rebuilt one since i've never had to do it.
here are some links:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...torial-711712/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...advice-871945/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...build-1021713/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ential-355326/
now, with all that said ... i just read your other thread, so are you fixing this or replacing it with Gen 2 parts? is your Gen 2 swap idea because you think you might not be able to fix it? just trying to understand.
for the rear end, are you absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with the driveshaft itself (bad u-joint)? seeing metal in and of itself is not completely abnormal especially if you don't know if the maintenance was kept up with. as long as we're not talking about chunks or large bits, it may be okay. i don't know because i didn't see it, but just keep it in mind.
if the rear is going bad, then it can be rebuilt. for parts, obviously check the usual suspects first: Mazdatrix, RB, Atkins, etc.. replacing the entire rear is an option, but from what i've seen in casual glances, they are not cheap (used to be able to get one between $100-200) any more. i don't know how much it costs to rebuilt one since i've never had to do it.
here are some links:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...torial-711712/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...advice-871945/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...build-1021713/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ential-355326/
now, with all that said ... i just read your other thread, so are you fixing this or replacing it with Gen 2 parts? is your Gen 2 swap idea because you think you might not be able to fix it? just trying to understand.
#5
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
"violently thrash you back and forth" could be a few things. It could be the throw-out bearing getting stuck, bad clutch slave, U-joint, rearend, trans, or clutch soft line not allowing fluid back.
If you don't know when the clutch master/slave/soft line have been replaced I would start there. Each and easy and good preventative maintenance. It's sometime hard to tell when a u-joint is bad. They can be frozen. They are a little more tricky to fix because they are staked but can be replaced. The rear end and clutch get a lot more involved and cost goes up.
If you don't know when the clutch master/slave/soft line have been replaced I would start there. Each and easy and good preventative maintenance. It's sometime hard to tell when a u-joint is bad. They can be frozen. They are a little more tricky to fix because they are staked but can be replaced. The rear end and clutch get a lot more involved and cost goes up.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
"violently thrash you back and forth" could be a few things. It could be the throw-out bearing getting stuck, bad clutch slave, U-joint, rearend, trans, or clutch soft line not allowing fluid back.
If you don't know when the clutch master/slave/soft line have been replaced I would start there. Each and easy and good preventative maintenance. It's sometime hard to tell when a u-joint is bad. They can be frozen. They are a little more tricky to fix because they are staked but can be replaced. The rear end and clutch get a lot more involved and cost goes up.
If you don't know when the clutch master/slave/soft line have been replaced I would start there. Each and easy and good preventative maintenance. It's sometime hard to tell when a u-joint is bad. They can be frozen. They are a little more tricky to fix because they are staked but can be replaced. The rear end and clutch get a lot more involved and cost goes up.
Last edited by fox1999; 07-06-23 at 03:24 PM. Reason: Forgot to add info
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