well about a week ago i replaced (on the floor with only a scissor jack) my failing clutch with a 6 puck sprung and a oem pressure plate. now ive noticed that when im in reverse the car jerks real bad like if it going to snap or something. i also notice it in first but not as bad and i can deal with that.
any ideas on the problem?

 

Well I would go over all the stuff you had removed and reinstalled for the clutch job. Possibly your driveshaft is loose or maybe the tranny mount. If everything checks out O.K. Then maybe that is just the nature of the 6 puck disc.

 

Could the clutch be misaligned? I had that happen with an old Maxima, and the clutch would shudder really bad when engaging...

 

Yes, did you use a clutch alignment tool?

 

6 puck clutches are streetable, but not slip friendly

i had a RB 6 puck Street/race clutch on my GSL-SE. up until having 500 miles or so on the break in it would slightly shudder after that it was either feather the throttle, bog it, or just drop it. best $300 i've ever spent... and that was with the PP, tool, and bearings

 

Yea,dont expect a 6 puck to be butter smooth,even if its a sprung hub.
If the flywheel wasnt turned,thats going to exacerbate the issue a little,but the bucking and jerking is fairly common with our cars,especially in reverse.Thats why I stick with full face clutchs,I just get them without marcel springs under the facing,so at least the engagment is quicker......leave the puck clutches to the drag racers.

An engine brace will take a lot of that shudder out of the drivetrain.They are pretty easy to install and not much money.Ive had mine for years and never had a single shudder or broken engine mount,even with 300hp.

Read the description on the engine torque brace under "external engine parts" .......sound like familiar symptoms?

http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm

 

thanks for the info i have that brace in my garage and was gana use it on my track car but this daily needs it bad.

 

The shutter you are feeling is from the temp of the disc the cold flywheel is like a magnet to the pucks it doesnt slip even like a stock so the surface has a flash heat up insted of a steady heat up once the clutch disc has slipped enough time the shutter will subside but at the cost of longevity of the pucks.

A good way to fight this problem so the shutter is a mynute thing is to get a aluminium flywheel sence the heat transfer is faster the disc pucks will warm the hole flywheel quicker but once you engadge the clutch you will have to re warm the flywheel starting out agian.

Make sure with the pucked clutch you get rid of the rubber hose on your slave cylinder and get a metal one, the new clutch has a higher powerd spring and will split that rubber like nothing!