1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Is this part important?

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Old Mar 25, 2025 | 09:08 AM
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repressd's Avatar
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Is this part important?



The oil purge valve broke during a clutch job. Looks like both of those plastic ends broke and got melted i to the hoses. Can I just cap these off or put a one way valve on those two hoses and cap the metal one? Thanks in advance
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Old Mar 25, 2025 | 12:43 PM
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Yes, it's important as it helps to keep water vapor out of the oil system to avoid condensation typically seen at the Oil Filler Neck (*aka "lung butter"). This valve redirects the vapor from the oil pan into the intake system where it can be burned and without it, the water vapor condensation is effectively trapped in the oil, distributed as condensed water to all of the engine internals and will lead to rust on important bearings and surfaces over time if you're not religious about changing your oil regularly (*which you should also be doing...).

Superglue to the rescue! I've also had good luck with hobby store aluminum tubing of the correct size, cut to short lengths and then superglue into drilled holes replacing the plastic connections. This works well and will last the life of the car if you're careful with them in the future.
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Old Mar 25, 2025 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
Yes, it's important as it helps to keep water vapor out of the oil system to avoid condensation typically seen at the Oil Filler Neck (*aka "lung butter"). This valve redirects the vapor from the oil pan into the intake system where it can be burned and without it, the water vapor condensation is effectively trapped in the oil, distributed as condensed water to all of the engine internals and will lead to rust on important bearings and surfaces over time if you're not religious about changing your oil regularly (*which you should also be doing...).

Superglue to the rescue! I've also had good luck with hobby store aluminum tubing of the correct size, cut to short lengths and then superglue into drilled holes replacing the plastic connections. This works well and will last the life of the car if you're careful with them in the future.
Okay sweet! Yeah i was staring at it for like an hour and realized i only broke off the non important parts and I can just "glue" it somehow. I was scared of supergluing for it not to hold up TT ___ TT but i grabbed some clear epoxy to try to glue the bigger piece of plastic. I think it needs a full 24 hour to harden. Got impatient and it broke off again lol. I'm gonna try to stop by a hobby store today before jumping the gun and purchasing a $75 piece of "plastic" lol.

Thanks again, LongDuck.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 11:03 AM
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@LongDuck Sigh my fix didnt work, and this autozone part that I grabbed didn't seem to work either. The idle is still high at 2k RPM's and would surge shortly to 3k after. I also couldn't think of any other possible vac leaks after the clutch install..


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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 04:57 PM
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Glueing plastic is tough! The only thing that consistently works for me is Sealant 5200. Expensive, but always works!
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 07:54 AM
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Do you want a used one? I should have a spare, let me know.

If you suspect additional vacuum leaks, you can spray around the plumbing with some starter fluid or brake cleaner while the engine is idling and listen for changes in pitch. If there's a leak the starter fluid will be sucked in, affecting engine rpm.
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 02:20 PM
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@ray green Thanks for that - I already had one bought from atkins, and they only had a used one so they gave it to me for a used price. And thank you - I will go ahead and do that while I wait. It's difficult doing the smoke method because of the fan and I also wouldnt want for the part to come in just for the idles to be the same haha
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 10:04 AM
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JB Weld is great for repairing almost anything and works well on plastic too.
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