1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

High Idle RPM wont go down

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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 12:31 PM
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High Idle RPM wont go down

Long story short, did a clutch job and now the car wouldn’t idle like normal. Found out the oil purge valve broke, replaced it, and still idles at 3000rpm.

Sprayed brake cleaner all over and rpm’s were the same at 3000rpm so I don’t think ive passed through any huge vacuum leaks…

When I put some gas on it, it would rev up to about 4000rpm and it would either very slowly come back to 3000pm or be at 3500rpm.

What am I missing besides vacuum leaks?
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 05:23 PM
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Is the throttle cable under tension?
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by peejay
Is the throttle cable under tension?
Which one is the throttle cable? I know exactly which one is for the choke, then im not sure for the other two.. im looking through the manual but that just made me confused even more lol.
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 06:46 PM
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From: KC

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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 09:30 PM
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@KansasCityREPU Thank you - i checked the slack on the throttle cable and seems to be within 1 ~ 3mm per fsm, tried loosening it but still stuck at 3000.. then checked my pedal heights and the accelerator pedal is a bit lower than stated on fsm. Looked underneath and there's two zipties there by previous owner. It was like this before this whole issue, but with the whole clutch job, there might have been some movement happening... but then again im not sure if this would be the cause for high idle and very sticky deceleration...
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 09:57 PM
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im starting to think something is sticking
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 08:37 AM
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From: KC
You could try disconnecting the cable and start it and see what happens. It's really hard trying to give advice other than the likely culprits. Maybe something in the carb linkage is getting hung. You can try operating it by hand.
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
You could try disconnecting the cable and start it and see what happens. It's really hard trying to give advice other than the likely culprits. Maybe something in the carb linkage is getting hung. You can try operating it by hand.

okay so I removed those two zipties by the cable on the pedal and that made a HUGE difference.

Figured it was the pedal/cable because rpms went down much better when i pull the pedal back manually all the way out.

Seems like the issue is with the cables. Idle is still indecisive, after a short drive around the block it idles at 2000rpm. Not up to that standard 750/850 but it goes from 850-2000rpm now for idle.

regardless, it’s definitely more drivable now and it doesnt sound like someone’s on the gas pedal.

Now i gotta figure what may be causing these random idles/rpms before saying i need to adjust idle speed bc it wasnt messed with before
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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From: KC
You're on the right track and correct about not wanting to adjust idle speed...yet.
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 04:13 PM
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Don't adjust anything. Something has to have hung up or mechanically changed, usually what happens is a cable gets something stuck under it.
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by peejay
Don't adjust anything. Something has to have hung up or mechanically changed, usually what happens is a cable gets something stuck under it.
Yep - i wont be adjusting anything. Pretty sure i just gotta make sure none of the cables are stuck or positioned in a weird way
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 05:09 PM
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If you have cruise control, make sure it is switched off, too. (The dash button)

I had a cruise control module fail at a random time and its failure mode was to apply lots of throttle. Applying the brake or clutch didn't affect it because this was an electronic fault not a control fault. The module (in a series 3) lives under the left side bin and it had been water damaged.
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