1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

New Clutch Issues

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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 01:59 AM
  #1  
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New Clutch Issues

Hey all, just got a new clutch in my 81’. It is the racing beat street strip clutch. I also had a new exedy pressure plate, master cylinder, and slave cylinder installed. (And pilot bearing, throw out bearing, the whole works.) I am having some trouble getting used to the new clutch and I’m curious if I should be concerned. The bite point is so high (Basically the top) and it is extremely hard to get rolling. Note that I was running a stock clutch before. I know there is a break in period on new clutches but should I try to adjust the pedal or bleed the system again? The car also vibrates like crazy when I try to get rolling.
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 08:53 AM
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Something is very badly not right. From the sound of it your pressure plate is not clamping down on the clutch disk. If it is slipping and chattering it will cause the car to shudder and be hard to get moving. I'm sorry to say it but you probably need to take it back apart and check everything over again. Ensure the bolts holding the pressure plate are tight and that the clutch disk was not put in backwards. It would be hard to put the throwout bearing in wrong but check it anyway. You didn't specify whether you had a new flywheel or resurfaced the old one.
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 09:57 AM
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I didn’t get the flywheel resurfaced when I had the job done. I am throwing in a new engine soon that has a new flywheel.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank
Something is very badly not right. From the sound of it your pressure plate is not clamping down on the clutch disk. If it is slipping and chattering it will cause the car to shudder and be hard to get moving. I'm sorry to say it but you probably need to take it back apart and check everything over again. Ensure the bolts holding the pressure plate are tight and that the clutch disk was not put in backwards. It would be hard to put the throwout bearing in wrong but check it anyway. You didn't specify whether you had a new flywheel or resurfaced the old one.
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 10:50 AM
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Did you replace the Pilot Bearing and it's Grease Seal? I'd start by adjusting the clutch pedal under the dash. It's the simplest, easiest, and will put the clutch pedal position where it belongs to engage more smoothly.

I have the same clutch, pressure plate, and TOB and an 11lb RB lightweight aluminum flywheel, and it's no more difficult to engage smoothly than stock. In fact, I'd say it's easier because the reduced rotating mass makes speed differential to the trans neutralize much faster with less slip.
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 11:40 AM
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Yes the pilot bearing and the seal was replaced

Originally Posted by LongDuck
Did you replace the Pilot Bearing and it's Grease Seal? I'd start by adjusting the clutch pedal under the dash. It's the simplest, easiest, and will put the clutch pedal position where it belongs to engage more smoothly.

I have the same clutch, pressure plate, and TOB and an 11lb RB lightweight aluminum flywheel, and it's no more difficult to engage smoothly than stock. In fact, I'd say it's easier because the reduced rotating mass makes speed differential to the trans neutralize much faster with less slip.
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 12:29 PM
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Did you grease the Pilot Bearing sufficiently but not too much? The reason why I'm asking is that too much grease there can spit out past the grease seal when you jam the input shaft into it, and that grease may have ended up on your clutch disk or pressure plate, which would explain the chattering as the disk slips.

Also, was the Trans Front Cover where the TOB slides in good shape? Did you grease that shaft where the TOB moves back and forth? Trying to explain why your clutch wouldn't feel buttery smooth. Same with the splines on the clutch disk, which should be greased but not too much. Any of these can cause clutch issues, and recognize also that the increased clutch force will put more pressure on your Master and Slave cylinders. It's not uncommon for people to post here after installing a new high force clutch and it doesn't feel right, only to find that their slave cylinder is now puking hydraulic fluid down the bell housing.

Any marginal part will show it's weakness now,
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 12:30 PM
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I didn’t replace the clutch myself. A mechanic who specializes in rotaries did.

Originally Posted by LongDuck
Did you grease the Pilot Bearing sufficiently but not too much? The reason why I'm asking is that too much grease there can spit out past the grease seal when you jam the input shaft into it, and that grease may have ended up on your clutch disk or pressure plate, which would explain the chattering as the disk slips.

Also, was the Trans Front Cover where the TOB slides in good shape? Did you grease that shaft where the TOB moves back and forth? Trying to explain why your clutch wouldn't feel buttery smooth. Same with the splines on the clutch disk, which should be greased but not too much. Any of these can cause clutch issues, and recognize also that the increased clutch force will put more pressure on your Master and Slave cylinders. It's not uncommon for people to post here after installing a new high force clutch and it doesn't feel right, only to find that their slave cylinder is now puking hydraulic fluid down the bell housing.

Any marginal part will show it's weakness now,
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2024 | 01:17 PM
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I’m going to adjust the clutch pedal and see if that helps. If not what should my next step be?

Originally Posted by LongDuck
Did you grease the Pilot Bearing sufficiently but not too much? The reason why I'm asking is that too much grease there can spit out past the grease seal when you jam the input shaft into it, and that grease may have ended up on your clutch disk or pressure plate, which would explain the chattering as the disk slips.

Also, was the Trans Front Cover where the TOB slides in good shape? Did you grease that shaft where the TOB moves back and forth? Trying to explain why your clutch wouldn't feel buttery smooth. Same with the splines on the clutch disk, which should be greased but not too much. Any of these can cause clutch issues, and recognize also that the increased clutch force will put more pressure on your Master and Slave cylinders. It's not uncommon for people to post here after installing a new high force clutch and it doesn't feel right, only to find that their slave cylinder is now puking hydraulic fluid down the bell housing.

Any marginal part will show it's weakness now,
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2024 | 06:06 AM
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I would start with the clutch pedal adjustment. Often they will need adjusted once a new clutchbis installed. On my RX-8's, it's a must, as I've had to do it every time I've installed a new clutch. It's a simple procedure and you should be up and rolling quickly. If you need the original freeplay measurements let me know and I'll grab the FSM and post a pic.
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Old Jun 21, 2024 | 12:51 PM
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As a sidenote, our ability to help you much beyond this went downhill when you stated someone else installed the clutch. Usually, if you do the work yourself, you'd know how much or how little grease was applied and where, if the correct tools were used to remove and install the Pilot Bearing, etc. The fact that someone else - even a rotary shop - did the work, suddenly the specifics are unknowable, and you're going to have a hard time pinning down a mechanic who worked on the car days to weeks ago and worked on other cars in between.

Start with the stated basics, and report back what you find. Not giving up, but recognize that there are quite,a few unknowns now to work around...
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Old Jun 21, 2024 | 12:54 PM
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Yeah I totally get that. The mechanic who installed it is actually driving to me today to check it over again. Hopefully it isn’t catastrophic.

Originally Posted by LongDuck
As a sidenote, our ability to help you much beyond this went downhill when you stated someone else installed the clutch. Usually, if you do the work yourself, you'd know how much or how little grease was applied and where, if the correct tools were used to remove and install the Pilot Bearing, etc. The fact that someone else - even a rotary shop - did the work, suddenly the specifics are unknowable, and you're going to have a hard time pinning down a mechanic who worked on the car days to weeks ago and worked on other cars in between.

Start with the stated basics, and report back what you find. Not giving up, but recognize that there are quite,a few unknowns now to work around...
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