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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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From: Tyner IN
clutch issue

first off i have tried searching but no real answer to my problem. so i have 87 tii brand new flywheel new hpi clutch and stage 3 exedy pressure plate. my clutch worked perfect be for i swapped out all my upgraded stuff. now my clutch wont full disengage. i have put on a new slave cylinder and all of the new following parts. i have bled the clutch and still nothing. any ideas maybe master cylinder or clutch line. thanks to anyone willing to help with some advice
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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If it doesn't disengage than it shouldn't have anything to do with the hydraulics. Did you replace the pilot bearing. If seized, it could cause these symptoms. Or a faulty installation of pressure plate. Time to pull transmission.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:04 PM
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I agree with Marc.Couldn't have said it any better myself.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:13 AM
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Try bleeding at the clutch master. Sometimes air gets trapped in there. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it 3/4 of the way down, then break a line loose to bleed the air.

They make bench bleeding kits, but this way is always easier, and has always worked for me.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 02:24 AM
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If you just did the swap and are having a hard time getting the clutch to return,then YES bleed the living hell out of it.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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well i just replace the clutch the pressure plate the pilot barring. ill just start by bleeding the hell out of it
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:22 AM
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Are you sure you got a TII slave not an NA? They are not interchangeable.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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yeah. it depresses just not all the way its getting better
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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They mount the same way, but fuction differently. Hopefully you just need to bleed it more.

NA on the left, TII on the right.
Attached Thumbnails clutch issue-slave-cylinders.jpg  
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:10 PM
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Little trick from the Brit cars I work on, which are much more stubborn when the clutch system gets air in it.
Air travels up easier and if you force the fluid in at the slave cylinder, it bleeds out much faster into the reservoir at the master.
You can use a Mighty Vac or similar tool in revrse. All the pieces are in the kit. Put pressure into the bowl to push the fluid into the bleed fitting on the slave.
I just use the bowl with compressed air from a cleaning gun.
Just watch you don't force air in as the level in the bowl goes down. Hope that helps you.

Art
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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my clutch is givin me a wee bit of a crap to eh. its been slipping in all gears but the 1st. so im needing to replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, and im debating on weather or not to place the fly wheel (i think thats all i need anyways). only problem is im having a problem finding parts....

anyone got a good site or two theyd recommend for the parts? im looking for something a lil sturdier than stock.

Thanks!
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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if you have and s4 tii car i have a used exedy clutch/pressure plate (1,000 miles on everything) and a resurfaced s4 tii flywheel pm if your interested. but back to the car. so when im bleeding the clutch and its 3/4 the way down when i break the bleeder loose the clutch pedal goes down like it should but then it wont come back up after fully down? am i doing something wrong. im bout to put the new master cylinder on and the new clutch line. but i really want to avoid pulling the tranny since its a pain in the *** to work on with no lift. and no air tools.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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ive got an '94 FD3S.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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o dang i dont think the s4 tii clutch and pressure plate will work
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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Might not help but i had the flywheel and pressure plate worked on on my Skyline when i had the tranny down and when i put them back together they had to much grip so th eclutch felt like it didnt fully disengage. They are always rubbing alittle but not enough to move tha car.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 05:37 PM
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yeah it rolls the car when i put it into gear and if i start it out of gear i cant put it into first
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 10:49 AM
  #17  
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im not really looking to put in a racing clutch or anything, im looking for something a little closer to stock. for an OEM clutch assembly i found one for $750ish the flywheel was around $700 itself... so i think im going to hold off on the latter... not trying to break the bank... FD financial debt is right! haha
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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im still having this clutch issue ill let you guys know if i fix the proublem when i put the new master cylinder in
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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How exactly are you bleeding the clutch ?
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #20  
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if it was the pilot bearing or the throw out bearing wouldn't i hear a noise because i got no noise but from the tranny being low on fluid. i havent had time to replace the master cylinder and the rubber line but i did replace the slave and adjusted the clutch rod. but i am bleeding the clutch like so. having someone pump it up. then hold. then i break the bleeder open. the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor.close bleeder. then you have to pick the clutch pedal up because it doesnt come back up on its own when it hits the floor. then when you pump it up its fine comes back up. any idea's dont really have a lift to work on it so pulling the tranny back out is going to be a big hassle since im a college student and the only place to do this is in the parking lot
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