Verneuil

I put a new clutch in last night. Resurfaced flywheel new throwout bearing. The problem is i had replaced it because the old one wasnt fully engaging till the peddle was fully disengaged. It still doing the same thing now. I did put a new pressure plate in also. I did notice that when i have my foot barly on the peddle there is a weird vibration comin from the peddle it goes away when the clutch is fully disengaged

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Did you check the clutch master, clutch slave, and adjustment on the clutch pedal before doing all this clutch work?

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I would check the push rod and make any necessary adjustments after flushing the hydraulics.

Verneuil

What if i said no to that..... Car had 97K on it. I was not told if it had been replaced before, So i was under the assumtion it was going out. It has slipped before on me. Did it a lot when going from second to third.

Verneuil

I have adjusted the peddle. I put a stainless steel line in. Only thing its done has moved the point where it engages further on the peddle

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

ok here is the thing the clutch was bad if it slips then its not gripping if you master and slave cylinder were bad it wouldnt be able to get into gear.

Number 2 start the easy thought
Pedal to firewall
firewall to slave cylinder
slave cylinder to clutch fork clutch
Clutch fork to trow out bearing
throw out bearing is on the input shaft that attaches to the clutch the clutch goes to the flywheel.

I would say the flywheel is not balanced or the throw out bearing is bad. but i am leaning to the trow out bearing i had a cheap one once and it was a junker i could feel it all the time and it rattled.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

WOW, that sounds like a bad T/O bearing. Did you possibly have a hard time with that bearing on the install?

How do your transmission mounts look? The only thing I can think of is either motor or trans mouts are sagging or possibly the bell housing wasn't torqued to spec, and causing some pressure on that bearing due to mis-alignment. I hate when you replace everything and the gremlin still exists! Good luck.


Also - have you looked at the pilot bearing?

Verneuil

Dont think the throw out bearing is the issue. The peddle vibration went away. On install everything went on just fine. I spun the bearing by hand before i put it on. It felt like any new bearing you would get. It would spin but do to the grease inside it wount spin by itself. The major issue is how the clutch is engaging. Its not a lot of travel from when the clutch starts to engage to full engagement. It grips hard as hell. Its a 6 puck ceramic disc.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I would expect that from a six puck clutch. Those things aren't meant for street use
really, although folks will say they use em. I would give it a few hundred miles or
so to get bedded in better but its going to always grab like biotch, so get used to it.

That initial vibration was probably just your clutch faces and the flywheel not being
completely bedded yet.

Verneuil

K, I did somewhat suspect that the vibration was just the flywheel face not being completly smooth from the resurface. I knew the 6 puck would grab. But i thought i would have move peddle movement for engagment. But if thats all ima gonna get cool.

mortiky

i would agree here. check all the control mechs. (i.e. master cyl, slave cyl, pedal adj. etc.) before going any further. any misadjustment or air in the system can be the cause of a lot of issues here. sometimes air can be a real pain on hyrdaulic clutches, to bleed. if you have the tools to do it, most times it is eaiser and quicker to reverse bleed/fill the clutch master. meaning you hook up and fill the system at the slave cyl bleeder. but it does req. a special apparatus to do this

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

You just defined a racing clutch. I think you got what you paid for.

Verneuil

Lol sounds good to me then

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

What many don't realize is the higher clamping pressure plates shorten the length of clutch pedal travel between initial and full engagement. There's less pedal travel to feather the clutch. The puck clutches are even worse because they're so 'grippy'.

Out of curiosity, why did you go for the puck clutch? Unless you're drag racing, I see no need for one. I have a Stage 3 ceramic/kevlar clutch that pedal wise it's no more effort than a Stage 1 organic and feathers like a stock one.

Verneuil

Well I have always wanted to get a 6 puck. It was cheaper to get the 6 puck than anything else. And i will be drag racing the car. As soon as everything is done. Drivability isnt something im worried about either.