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I put my new -SE rotors and calipers on today and I'm having an issue attaching the soft line to the strut with the locking clip. I took the stock 12A brakes off months ago so I don't remember if there's a trick to it, but the big side passes through the hole, so how is the clip supposed to keep it in there?
The junction where the soft line joins the hard line was easy -
it only pushes in far enough to get the clip on. But on the strut it falls through with a wiggle or 1/6 turn. The new lines are the same size and shape as the old ones here, so it's not the lines (it's me).
I worked all day so maybe I'm just tired-stupid, but what am I not seeing here?
Last edited by Maxwedge; Apr 24, 2021 at 07:57 PM.
There is a square clip that has a 90* bend on one end. The other end is open and kind of a U shape and has a slight bend. It's a clip that fits into that recessed area of the hose end. Very common clip for brake hoses.
Yeah yeah I'm using those but they don't keep the line secured. Am I supposed to use one on each side? I don't think that's how they were originally.
First pic is the soft to hard line, where the clips work fine....
But where they connect on the strut the 17mm hex falls through so the clip isn't holding it....
I think Im gonna need a thin 16mm washer to keep the hex "knuckle" from falling through.
that bracket that's welded to the strut tube isn't made right.
Yeah that's where I'm at too. I have gotten a lot of parts from T3 and almost everything is like this.... looks really well built until you try to install it. Im going to look for some thin washers after work today to keep the 17mm hex from passing through.
Ah, T3 Coils. I would email them to let them know about this issue, at least they can fix for the future.
If a washer etc won't work, you could do what I did with my coils. I used a chisel to remove the OEM bracket from my spindles and then used a large dia worm style hose clamp to attach the bracket to the proper location on the strut.
Also I learned something new, the 84/85 cars have a different front brake hardline interface? On my chassis (1982 S2 GS), the hardline and brake hose interface at the fender. This means the actual threaded union resides in the engine bay where it is way less prone to salt, corrosion etc.
I wonder why Mazda moved the interface into the wheel well, seems like a downgrade.
Ah, T3 Coils. I would email them to let them know about this issue, at least they can fix for the future.
If a washer etc won't work, you could do what I did with my coils. I used a chisel to remove the OEM bracket from my spindles and then used a large dia worm style hose clamp to attach the bracket to the proper location on the strut.
Also I learned something new, the 84/85 cars have a different front brake hardline interface? On my chassis (1982 S2 GS), the hardline and brake hose interface at the fender. This means the actual threaded union resides in the engine bay where it is way less prone to salt, corrosion etc.
I wonder why Mazda moved the interface into the wheel well, seems like a downgrade.
At the fender or the inner chassis (opposite to the fenders) that's how my S1 is and it is a GREAT design. Never seen any brake lines on any RX7 touch the fenders
So I got some 9/16 machine bushings from Ace and they work great for my situation (14mm washers were too small and 16mm too big). Brake lines are securely mounted now. Goofy T3.
No, no it did not. I had it custom made for me by Spohn Performance in PA. The T3 LCA's don't accept swaybar links, regardless of their product description.
The arms have several holes on top but they **** the stock-type end links out and away from the sway bar. They're not like the stock arms that have the hole angled in the correct direction.
I called them and they said most drifters don't use swaybars so it's not an issue (??????). Same thing with the steering stops on the back side of the arms - The stock arms have that angled metal welded on to contact the stop-screws on your knuckles. But there's nothing like that on the T3 arms. They gave me the same answer "Drifters don't need those".
No, no it did not. I had it custom made for me by Spohn Performance in PA. The T3 LCA's don't accept swaybar links, regardless of their product description.
The arms have several holes on top but they **** the stock-type end links out and away from the sway bar. They're not like the stock arms that have the hole angled in the correct direction.
I called them and they said most drifters don't use swaybars so it's not an issue (??????). Same thing with the steering stops on the back side of the arms - The stock arms have that angled metal welded on to contact the stop-screws on your knuckles. But there's nothing like that on the T3 arms. They gave me the same answer "Drifters don't need those".
That makes me question their whole engineering quality right there with that answer. Do drifters not need certain hardness in their attachment hardware? Maybe they don't need them to be dimensioned correctly either?
That's a shitty response man. I have an order in with them now, luckily its only for the struts and roll center adjusters, but thanks for the intel on the brake line clip issue. There is a lot to be desired from their website and ordering in general. Some of the responses I've got have been short or non answers like that but the rest have been pretty helpful. Overall, my experience so for hasn't been too bad. I'm still waiting on a response from other vendors while I was comparing my options.
Their products look great. Nice welds, good powder coat, super heavy duty. But lots of things like this brake line issue, the steering stops and sway bars are just sucky. Their other LCA design comes with the adjustable end links on it, but the "ball joint" isn't a real ball joint... it's another Teflon spherical joint. If it was a true BJ I would have gotten that style. The AE86 replaceable ball joint w/ retaining clip is one of the main reasons I got these, but they are much heavier than OE and the track-adjusting hardware is up in the pocket of the crossmember, so I have to remove the pivot bolt and "drop" the arm to adjust that hardware. PITA.
Last edited by Maxwedge; Apr 27, 2021 at 09:59 PM.
