Compression
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 920
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From: exit 8 in Manchester, NH
Alright all you know it alls. What is the average compression I should have in a 12a? Because I am going to my dad's and we are going to test the engine to see what shape it is really in. Also anything else I might need to know? or check for?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
From: exit 8 in Manchester, NH
Thanx guys. Well hopefully everything will go ok this weekend and she meets specs, or I may be looking for a place to send it for rebuild or new engine.
In case you don't have a Mazda compression tester, and aren't familiar with compression testing with a conventional tester:
If you want a relatively accurate compression test you can use a conventional compression tester. Heres the process.
Disable the fuel system, pull the fusible link, plug the fuel lines whatever. You don't want fuel into the chambers when you are turning the engine over.
Pull all of the plug wires.
Pull the trailing (top) plugs from both rotors.
Screw in the compression tester in the top hole of the front rotor. Hold the release "pin" in on the tester, this will allow the pressure to immediately release on each compression "stroke".
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the car over while you watch the gauge. You should see the needle on the gauge start "bumping" up and down. After watching you can see the three compression cycles. They should all be fairly consistent and not too low.
Repeat the process with the rear rotor.
Also, the car needs a fully charged battery and good starter. It needs to rotate around 250 rpm to get a decent reading.
hanman
If you want a relatively accurate compression test you can use a conventional compression tester. Heres the process.
Disable the fuel system, pull the fusible link, plug the fuel lines whatever. You don't want fuel into the chambers when you are turning the engine over.
Pull all of the plug wires.
Pull the trailing (top) plugs from both rotors.
Screw in the compression tester in the top hole of the front rotor. Hold the release "pin" in on the tester, this will allow the pressure to immediately release on each compression "stroke".
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the car over while you watch the gauge. You should see the needle on the gauge start "bumping" up and down. After watching you can see the three compression cycles. They should all be fairly consistent and not too low.
Repeat the process with the rear rotor.
Also, the car needs a fully charged battery and good starter. It needs to rotate around 250 rpm to get a decent reading.
hanman
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,444
Likes: 0
From: Fort Branch, Indiana
Agreed to your compression test, thats the way to do it. Except when I do I add one step, when watching the needle bounce I use my digital camera on MPEG
That was I can play it back in slo mo and see every bounce perfectly
That was I can play it back in slo mo and see every bounce perfectly
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If it starts easily when it's hot, it has good enough compression. 
The first engine in my '80 had 25psi compression cold. Fired right up every time. (The second engine had 125psi compression with a street port and old seals!
)

The first engine in my '80 had 25psi compression cold. Fired right up every time. (The second engine had 125psi compression with a street port and old seals!
)
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