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What did you do to your FB today?

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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 02:36 PM
  #1726  
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Welded nuts on the bracket and got it all back together. Did a front end alignment and the toe was off by 2" so I fixed it. Now I have zero tire squeal and turn in is finally manageable.

Next I'm gonna get the watts links aligned an set. Then she is done
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 03:16 PM
  #1727  
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Removed all the heat shields, removed my driveshaft, removed my u-joints, cleaned up the interior a little bit, cleaned out some carbon, and I'm about to do a seafoam treatment....

-1982 Mazda rx7 gs all stock, 120k on original motor.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:09 PM
  #1728  
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Originally Posted by rotabimmer77
Lly need to figure out where to buy that filter cause I need my car back on the road.
How about just cleaning up the one you have? Is it damaged in some way other than just the tar substance?
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #1729  
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Put the GSL-EV back together and charged it up.

Decided to work on the 85 GSL-SE from my list from a few days ago. Bought oil and lube for transmission and diff yesterday. Unfortunately when I went out to swap cars in the garage I noticed the right front tire was almost flat. (7.5 psi is pretty flat.) Pumped it up and tried to start it. Solenoid didn't pull in. Battery voltage was marginally low. Turned off the blower fan and that was enough to pull it in and start. Headed to the battery shop and they verified the batt was weak. Replace it. Went to tire shop and they found the valve was leaking and tightened it up and all was good. Blew the whole day messing with those two things. Trying to get up the enthusiasm to jack it up and pull the drain plugs. Posting here is clearly a delaying tactic.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #1730  
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Pulled my spare engine apart to scavage the apex seals/housings.

REBUILD this weekend
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #1731  
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Well, I've been super busy with school, studying for tests due to the end of the semester coming up.
At the same time my dad decided that the paint job had gotten too bad to keep it at its current state so we're prepping it for a respray. We've just been sanding it down. We knocked out the areas where the paint had legitimately begun to crack and starting to tackle the hood with the rust spots and the loose frame underneath.
I wanted to get my brakes done but either way I win, I guess.
Wooop for no money!
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #1732  
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Bought an eBay short shifter last night. After switching from the MS6's super short throws to the 7 it feels like I'm hoping in the 18 wheeler and throwing the big stick around so I figure I should give the girl a little more sports car feel on the interior. One of those mods I've been meaning to do but just never got around to getting the part. Hopefully it'll be here soon and can be the first work I do in the new garage. It'll certainly be nicer than doing it in the rain.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #1733  
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driving into work this morning made me realize that i really need to figure out why my horn blares if i plug it in. PO installed 2 aftermarket horns, now i need to figure out his mess of wiring. looking at a set of hella supertones as replacements. i also need to start sourcing some new shocks for the front and rear of my car, problem is i don't know in the slightest where to look for fronts for a 1980. can anyone help me out here? i know RB has the back ones, but the fronts need to be done too.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:17 PM
  #1734  
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Fronts for the SAs are NLA. Options are a suspension swap or use FB shocks which are a bit shorter than the SAs need and use spacers ( a stack of washers, etc) in the bottom of the struts so they are tight and dont rattle.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:51 PM
  #1735  
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SA front strut carts from Monroe and KYB are still available. Rock Auto.

Monroe $30, KYB $50.

Considerable more from Mazdatrix ($77 each KYB); they also still have the OEM struts, at $110 each

I'm running KYB fronts; slightly softer than the previous Tokicos when they were new, but still competent struts.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #1736  
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i'd need the right lengths for the SA's but i believe there should be a KYB AGX that would fit. the toyotas use the same diameter strut, in various lengths.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 06:24 PM
  #1737  
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by rwatson5651
Fronts for the SAs are NLA. Options are a suspension swap or use FB shocks which are a bit shorter than the SAs need and use spacers ( a stack of washers, etc) in the bottom of the struts so they are tight and dont rattle.
I apologize for my premature pontification!!!
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #1738  
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Originally Posted by BrGreenSA
driving into work this morning made me realize that i really need to figure out why my horn blares if i plug it in. PO installed 2 aftermarket horns, now i need to figure out his mess of wiring. looking at a set of hella supertones as replacements. i also need to start sourcing some new shocks for the front and rear of my car, problem is i don't know in the slightest where to look for fronts for a 1980. can anyone help me out here? i know RB has the back ones, but the fronts need to be done too.
Pull the horn pad off and make sure that the metal plate is not making constant contact. You might need to back the screws off a bit.

On my car, I added anti-freeze to the coolant (27 degrees out tonight).



.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 01:22 AM
  #1739  
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Originally Posted by dougingraham
How about just cleaning up the one you have? Is it damaged in some way other than just the tar substance?
I wish but the filter is done for, it's covered in that stuff and is dark brown in color. I'll post pics when I can use a laptop.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 02:56 PM
  #1740  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i'd need the right lengths for the SA's but i believe there should be a KYB AGX that would fit. the toyotas use the same diameter strut, in various lengths.
I have a cad drawing of an SA strut at home; would that help?
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #1741  
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Pull the horn pad off and make sure that the metal plate is not making constant contact. You might need to back the screws off a bit.

On my car, I added anti-freeze to the coolant (27 degrees out tonight).



.
Could also mean one of the the nylon insulators for the horn button mounting screws may have given up. happened to me once.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #1742  
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on the drive home, my 2 left speakers decided they wanted to blow, guess its an excuse to overhaul the audio system in the car :P
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 06:18 AM
  #1743  
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put 854 miles on the Seven over the last few days. yeah, I been having fun. the rear still bounces so Im thinking lighter springs is in order. other than that she drives like a dream. I noticed today that my car is quite literally the "king of the jungle" here in Wilmington. sure there is a ton of faster and nicer cars, but none get the attention mine does
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 06:47 AM
  #1744  
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here are some pictures.
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your FB today?-img_0811.jpg   What did you do to your FB today?-img_0809.jpg   What did you do to your FB today?-img_0808.jpg   What did you do to your FB today?-img_0807.jpg  
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 09:35 AM
  #1745  
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Originally Posted by dream36realms
here are some pictures.
the car looks sick!!!

idler arm bushing is going again, would switching to the moog unit stop this from happening? no more leaky brake fluid, new master cylinder works a charm. starting to research stereo stuff, deciding what my setup should be. i'm thinking replace the 4"s in the front. the 6"s in the back, new head unit, nothing fancy, 4 channel amp, maybe sub(s)?
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 03:17 PM
  #1746  
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Originally Posted by dream36realms
here are some pictures.
Looking vicious indeed.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #1747  
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Pics of my in tank filter and the junk that was in my tank. I need some info on WTF that junk is and where I can get a filter.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #1748  
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Originally Posted by BrGreenSA
the car looks sick!!!

idler arm bushing is going again, would switching to the moog unit stop this from happening? no more leaky brake fluid, new master cylinder works a charm. starting to research stereo stuff, deciding what my setup should be. i'm thinking replace the 4"s in the front. the 6"s in the back, new head unit, nothing fancy, 4 channel amp, maybe sub(s)?
Yes, get the Moog. They last forever and then some.



.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 04:09 PM
  #1749  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I have a cad drawing of an SA strut at home; would that help?
oh yeah thats right. it should. the next step is the various toyota measurements... the "race" illumina we use in the FB's is actually an MR2 rear...
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #1750  
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Oh my god I was an idiot today. Installing new rotors and bearings on the front, I had to press in the piston on the drivers' side caliper to fit it over the new pads; so I loosened the bleed screw and used a big c-clamp to squeeze in the piston.
Once it was all installed I bled the brakes, but for some reason the pedal wouldn't tighten up. No bubbles in the fluid, but there was a weird sound every time I pressed the pedal.

...after a couple minutes of testing this, I heard a loud POP. I had just pumped the piston right out of the other caliper, which wasn't installed on the hub yet.

%#&@*#!
I just turned a simple job into a caliper rebuild.
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