I added fluid to the clutch master in my 84 gsl-se. Ive got a leak somewhere, assuming its the slave as I cant find any drips at the master.

Started shopping for a drivers side fender and the hood skirt(piece between hood and bumper). And cried a little over the cost of new bumper covers, woah. Add in passenger tail light lens and ill have to put off retirement a couple years passed the plan:P

Discovering finding a windshield is going to require a miracle and or/alot more searching.

Im just starting this project, well this spring I will. Lots of little things to mess with, switches all seem to need a good cleaning and adjustment. Cleaning of this and that, all for the joy of having a decent rex

If anyone has leads on items listed above(mostly a well priced place to buy glass), please Pm me.

Im new to the boards and am overly impressed with the amount of info here. Hope to share in these threads much this summer when I get abit more active with building this machine.

 

Mine tended to lose fluid through the hardened rubber gasket on the slave cylinder and leak down the transmission. The slave is also the first to go so I'd look into that first - I'm on my third in one year and I have to keep rebuilding it every so often.

I'm parting out a 7 now, as in my signature, and I have a decent driver's side fender and piece between the hood and bumper. For the tail light lens you'll have to just buy a whole different tail light assembly since the lenses coming off is darn near impossible.

PM me if you're interested in parts, I still have many. Unfortunately my parts car's glass cracked so it's useless now.

Yes, yes it will.

The board is filled with useful information and will continue to be for the years to come. I've learned more than I should probably know as my To Do list is over a page of 12-sized font and just keeps getting longer

Welcome, by the way

 

I'm guessing that the difficulty is masking the lip. Takes too much time, so no one wants to do it.
I need to find a shop that can remove chrome from aluminum wheels. The chrome is peeling from the American Racing wheels on my Cutlass. Nobody wants to touch that - nasty chemicals involved, apparently.

 

Black Dragon has windshields for $160:
Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7

I can't imagine your local glass shop would be much more, if not cheaper.

 

Didn't even think to mention that, thank you! They are the ultimate place for a go-to RX part aren't they?

For kicks and giggles I just got this when I got home a few minutes ago:


A 4-gauge amplifier installation kit. Will be going in the 7 for when I install my 4ch 400w amp to power my aftermarket Kenwood speakers. Pretty stoked to see what it sounds like afterwards since I can barely hear them right now!

 

I spent 2 hours at a friend's house screwing with the fuel pump and electrical system because she would start to turn over but immediately die once I let go of the key. I couldn't hear the fuel pump at all, even after replacing it.. so I temp hard wired it and still the same thing. Finally I took the trim off the steering column and sure enough one of the wires soldered to the ignition had popped off. I tied it on with a wire till I could get home and then soldered it back on. Issue solved.. and now I have a back up fuel pump lol.



That top one was the one that came off.. and that wire was my temp fix to get me home lol.

 

I sincerely hope you carry a fire extinguisher...

 

The Master cylinder for the clutch tends to leak inside the passenger compartment. You can reach up behind the dash following the clutch pedal arm and wipe the firewall below where the plunger goes into the MC and you will probably find fluid.

I've replaced one in each of my 85's and both were leaking inside.

Fortunately it is not difficult to change and it really isn't terribly expensive.

 

lol.

1. Yes, I actually do carry a fire extinguisher
2. those arent the injectors to be used
3. itll be fully enclosed in an air box
4. those are the secondary injectors, which will be staged to only operate over 5k RPM and at WOT

 

Sgt. looks no worse than a gm tbi system,
2 injectors set over basicly a carb base plate
should prove intresting.

 

Standoff injectors are the best, non direct injection, form of fuel delivery in terms of power production. By injecting fuel above the throttle plates in relatively "stagnant" air, it allows the best overall fuel atomisation, and also in turn creates a charge cooling affect as well. The only pitfall of standoff injectors is fire hazard from fuel puddling in the pre-throttle intake runners at low RPM's, which is why, I will, and virtually every other standoff injector user out there uses 1 set of injectors in the traditional position for idle and low RPM operation, and have the standoff injectors set on an RPM switch to only operate when intake runner velocity is high and will suck any and all fuel in. The injectors im using will only have a spray pattern/cone roughly an inch wide by the time its passes the edge ofthe 2 inch diameter velocity stack.


as for my FB deed of the day, I picked up some more sheet and plate metal stock for more fabrication tmw of some air box mounts and a side mount alternator bracket

 

That makes sense. Having dealt with GM TBI systems in the past (and their "brilliant" idea of using max injector flow at cold start as a substitute for a choke) I was having trouble visualizing how horizontal injectors would behave with low airflow.

 

Would it be possible to use the idle circuit on the carb and block off the main circuit and use the standoff injuctors instead? Is this what you are planning or will you use injectors for all fuel delivery?

 

The carb has been fully stripped down and is being used purely as a throttle body as Ive already been full S4 13b EFI swap for about a year and a half, and dont intend to go back to carbs. Ive had this 50mm DCP/SP for years and never used it once. Im making use of all the random part ive aquired over the last 10 years and trying to spend as little money as I can (Thats part of the ghetto aspect )

Rwatson, There is no reason why a person couldnt actually combine a carb and fuel injection. It would be a very interesting system, but would likely prove much more complex and expensive than most would be willing to go through just to see what how it would work. It would require a full EFI conversion, high and low pressure fuel supplies and lots of tuning time. Plus, using a carb for cold start and idling would pretty much bypass one of the biggest perks of EFI. Ill be using the primary injectors down on the center iron for all low speed/low load operations. For idle speed ill either adjust throttle opening screw like a carb, or may attempt to plumb a BAC somewhere in the system.

Im also having my buddy at a machine shop lathe a pair of sleeves that will sit in the carb throat where the venturis and chokes sat to block the minuscule amounts of unfiltered air that could sneak through the openings and also smooth the 2 stepped transitions from 55mm inlet to 50mm outlet


now, im off to my garage for more metal fabbing

 

I'm not an EFI guy, but this is interesting.

 

responded to a "wanted ad" left on my windshield on a mcdonalds receipt with a hearty no, then checked my oil and drove to work :P

 

Looked under the car cover. Yep, still in there.

 

I did this today (air box for ghetto ITB...also redid the standoff mount, fuel rail mount, and base plate) all aluminum box w/ lexan top and she doesnt weigh a thing

 

Well last night I drove my FB for the first time ever. I have owned the car for two year and its finally finished enough to drive around the parking lot. It was amazing to see all the hard work finally mean something

 

I am SO happy for you. I drove mine home from the previous owner, but don't exactly expect to be drivin' around until spring.

 

Started to replace the lines to the oil cooler on the 85 GSL-SE. I pulled the plug to drain the oil but thats as far as I got. The high was 10 degrees F and it was about 20 in the garage. As these things go I got a little oil on my fingers and after washing my hands I noticed the smell of gasoline. Yes, the oil smells like it has some gas in it. This will be the first oil change since I got the car last summer.

How concerned should I be about this? The car runs well so should I just wait to see if it comes back after the oil change? How would gas even get into the oil? Is there a path other than the combustion chamber?

 

Scored this at the pick a part in Stanton by pure chance for 20 bucks



Went and got the mounting kit for another 20 at pep boys



Bit of a clean up and it looks awesome. Need to get a horn button for other, but not too concerned about that seeing as how my horn is non functional anyway :p

 

Well let's see, I ordered new rear axle bearings, spacers and wheel seals, turbo 2 rotors for the rear, picked up a set of turbo rear calipers and managed to find a sweet set of wheels.

Going outside to wash my truck and then pull the axles on the fb so I can drop them at the machine shop in the morning. Going to 5x114 to fit the turbo brakes.

 

One possible cause is leaky needle valve/ flooding carb. Allows liqud fuel into combustion chamber, leaks past oil seal into oil pan. I have heard opinions that this can lead to premature oil seal wear.

I have also heard people here on the forum having this problem and some suspect that it may be from heatsoak after engine shutdown, causing the carb bowls to overflow.

Monitor your oil level / smell closely. If it adds gasoling more quickly than it burns oil the level can actually rise. If the level doesnt go down then it is adding gas at about the same rate as the omp is taking oil out. If everything is working right, the level should drop.

 

Might want to check that your carbon canister is not clogged; that can cause flooding (least on carbed cars; if your 85 GSL-SE's injected then I'm unsure how a plugged canister could cause flooding) AND fuel vapor accumulation in the crankcase. Tank vent system interconnects the crankcase & fuel tank as vapors travel to the canister.