Took out my metering pump and installed a RE Speed block off plate...I think the pump just needs a rebuild since it leaked very badly...very little oil was making its way into the metering lines that feed the carb. Now I'm gonna rummage through the cabinets and look for an old baby bottle to measure my premix ratio...glad to have kids...lol

 

Did some sanding on the center hex nuts last night. Not super shiny yet but they are ready for wet sanding and only two have any pitting that is at all noticeable and it's not too much. Should get better as I sand from 400-2000 grit. I was tempted to just got at the with the rouge polishing compound to see how they came out but resisted for the sake of better results. Should be done this week if I can get my *** motivated.

Unrelated personal note. Got signed up with a friend to do the Spartan Race with two of her friends in June. I might die. Google it. Looks intense.

 

I ended up buying a bag of 25 Viton o-rings for the end covers, & used two... I could be persuaded to part with some of them pretty easily.

My control shaft seal was fine, so I didn't end up replacing it.

 

Repainted my TR heat sheilds (went with cast-look aluminum this time), installed my thermostat and my wicked-keen ReSpeed t-stat cover, which I first medium-polished and clearcoated.

Putzed about with some other cleanup chores.

Hopefully will be mounting the exhaust system this weekend.

I thought about painting the TR itself, but considering the hottest paint I could find only went to 2000deg intermittent, probably no point to it. There's a reason Mazda aluminized them instead of painting them, even if it didn't last very long.

 

Well I'm a new FB owner and new to the rotary scene altogether! I Bought this one for $500 last weekend. It needs a new left rear glass and left tail light lens. Today I replaced the turn signal switch, lubricated the apex seals, rebuilt the clutch master, and bought new door handles. Now I just need to get some more cash and put some fuel in her and start her up. She needs a little cosmetic work in the front end but nothing major (as you can see in the pics). Tell me what you think??





The other RX7 is my friends new car with only 88k original miles he picked up for $2700.

 

What I see is potential. At least it should be rust free being down in dry New Mexico. Fender, header panel and bumper and you'll be good to go.

 

Yeah no rust, just little quirks lol. Today I went and put some gas in her to find out my battery is dead so now I have to wait for Autozone to charge it.. We will see if she lives by the end of the day!

 

how long since the engine has been run??? there are ideal steps to take if it has been a long while

 

Congrats and welcome to the club.

 

Looked through the pile and found some housings and paint for the next engine.


Divindriver needs to give these housings a good look. Could be a possible solution to your '80 CA EGR stuff. These are 13B housings.


Imagine a 13B in 12A's clothing. Who's gonna know? S4 NA or S5 NA assembly, light steel flywheel, a J-spec 13B thermal reactor or a US one from the 70s with a little clearanced hole like you just did on your 12A TR. It's very possible. Heck grind down where it says 13B and have someone CNC down the whole surface leaving just a raised 12A in its place.

 

i painted my doors and jams

 

well it was sitting since 04 on its rebuilt motor, has about 2000 miles on it after the rebuild. I already had some of the local rotary guys walk me thru the steps when they cam to see it.

On another note: Bad news!!! I think my ignition switch/tumbler went out today on my 85 GS what should I do to check as to why when the key is in the start position nothing happens?? I checked all the wires and they are all connected... really puzzled and need this fixed soon!

 

I got two of the center hex nuts wet sanded to 1000 and for ***** n giggles I grabbed the Mothers aluminum polish and gave one a go. Came out pretty close to a mirror shine, but I know it can be much better. The rouge and white compounds I'll use after 1500 and 2000 grit will help take out some of the cloudiness and the buffs will be able to get into the corners my fingers can't.

 

Check all your fuses and fusable links before you remove or replace the ignition switch. There is a seperate circuit for when its in the start position and it may be a blown fuse.

 

I picked my car up after is has been sitting at KDR all winter.

(yes, I have been lifting weights all winter in order to perform such a feat).

 

Now post some more pictures and videos

 

Tempting... But would a 13B come in under the required smog numbers for a 12A?

 

Yes. Engine size should be irrelevant up to a point; 12A and 13B are pretty close. Use your Nikki to tune idle mixtures and jet it down (or up) and keep your semi-firing trailing. You just have to keep the fire lit inside the thermal reactor. Also these engines came stock with an NO intermediate plate so you know it'll all flow the same. You'll just end up with much more pleasant usable torque for daily driving.

j9fd3s might be able to lend some tips for passing with a TR on a 13B.

 

it should? off the top the SA puts out about 10HC's more than an FC in the CA test conditions... both are still lower than my mom's 2003 Mercedes.

i don't have a ton of experience with the Reactors, i actually use my nose to pretest, and i'm good with the cats, but not with the reactor.

the cats work best when you set the idle mixture to where it runs the best, and then a little richer, but the reactor seems to be more picky than that. the setting for the cat seems like its still too lean? and it doesn't smell the same...

so my SA passes, easily, but its like a hail mary, where a car with a cat, i already know its going to pass

 

Well I checked all my fuses and there good but I'm unsure of what the fusible links look like?? Or how they are supposed to look?

 

Divin....sorry I missed this post...I am sending you a pm now.

 

Promises only for the SA today; had to take an afternoon and replace the $4 o-ring behind the oil cooler on the Z; it was drooling oil all over the place.

Got a big weekend planned for the Beastie, though.

 

Worked on my triple gauge in-dash setup some more. Got the PVC measured and cut, with the angles all figured out. Pipe will be painted tomorrow, then finishing touches added on Monday hopefully. Could even have pics so I could move on to getting dual e-fans from a MR2 at a junkyard half a mile from my house

 

I made a bunch of block off plates for the intake manifold and rebuilt my carb. Hoping to install a new tank, pump and fpr tomorrow

 

removing intake gasket from block - tough to get at in the car