This is redneck AF, and I would not do it on something structural, suspension etc........but sometimes when a stud is stripped or someone stripped the hole a bolt goes into I'll grab a standard size with slightly different thread count and use that PROVIDED it is going on securely. Usually works best on aluminum and not big torque. If it doesn't hold then go the helicoil rout if its a stripped tapped hole. A tap and die set is just 20 bucks at HF if needed.

 

It most definitely was redneck af but I do live in the south SOOOO 🤣 I'm definitely looking into a tap and die set for my next projects in case I need something like that again. The helly coil is holding up very nicely tho given it's current task lol for my battery cable on the start I may go even more redneck and use a jumper cable just for the starter 🤣 more on that later tho

 

Mounted up my Holley FPR and gauge and mocked up the fuel line routing. I have my wideband o2 arriving today as well, should be fun. The car is getting a lot of fuel, it has a big carb so that's already a pisser - but it'll help me fine tune as best as possible.

 

I need one of those and I like the mounting location and inlet in the side and outlet down. curious if you have factory fuel libes or have you went larger?

 

Inlet is in the bottom, out is on the side. Factory lines, but I believe i have an aftermarket fuel pump as it's brand new and a bit louder than my buddies stock one. Also have a big carb, so I'm just trying to figure out how much PSI that pump is truly pushing....

 

I did a google search but came up with the ones that are 1-4 psi. I would probably need 5-7. Holley 650 DP on my car and I put in larger fuel lines and a high flow pump. 1-4 PSI would choke it out....or probably not enough to keep up

can you send me a link to this one?

 

that holley will need at lease 6 psi.

 

https://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-...tem/18153.html

that's 4-9psi setup.

 

What pump are you running? That does not look like a return style regulator and might be detrimental to pump life.

 

Not entirely sure what pump it is, as it's non descript but looks brand spankin' new. upgraded to a holley pump soon anyhow, so I'm not too torn about it.

 

Could you speak more to this, Tommy? I installed the FPR, drove it around for maybe 20 min. Parked it, installed my AEM wideband O2 and now the car wont run very good at all. Wont idle unless I set the idle to 1300+.

Car runs fine above 1500 rpm, but if left to idle, it seems to be running out of Fuel. rear rotor exhaust runner gets hot, and then doesn't, so I know its running lean to some degree but not sure on why it fluctuates.

For what it's worth, I have a holley red pump en route due for tomorrow.

 

The windshield washer has never worked on my car, jumping the connections let me know it was a bad washer switch.

My for the moment fix is to run a jumper wire to the wire for the cruise control set button and now I can just press that to clean the windshield. Exposed wiring was later wrapped in electrical tape.

Now I know the set button is good too as the cruise control has never worked for me either.

 

I just converted my truck to a duel fuel LPG/Gasoline setup. It got me thinking about my RX7 on LPG, but I stopped thinking about it because IDK how I'd do the turbo with LPG. Then I thought about how I would I pre-mix with LPG. I guess N/A and use the oil metering pump. Cool if you do go with gas on your RX7.

 

Spent all evening swapping in a GSL-SE axle with all new control arms. Watts linkage was a struggle but got it installed.
Then came the brake hose, it seemed like it was a half inch too short. I'm already tired so I just connected it to the pipe outside the bracket to prevent more brake fluid from leaking.
Compared part numbers and that hose is the same from 81-85 GSL and GSL-SE.
From looking at other axles on the forum, the brake tee needs to be positioned with the inlet towards the outside of the axle.
Looks I need to do a little re-bending of the tubing.


edit update:
Flipped the tee around and the hose fits better but still seems like it's being stretched too much. Found a Centric part number for a 10.5" long hose and will try that.
Also the brake line hard lines are leaking. Tried all morning to get them to stop by tightening more or removing and clearing debris from the flare to no avail.
Never had so much trouble with brake lines. The rear disk conversion I did 10 years ago went much smoother.

 

Got my old girl moved today so now I know she rolls. Brakes work, clutch engages and disengages, and everything else seems to be in working order when battery power is applied.....but....motor seems to be seized. Tried multiple times using jumper cables and even tried using the push start method and nothing seems to make the motor spin. Could really use some help with that. Maybe marvel mystery oil? Leaving a pic in here since she actually moved. Maybe not under her own power but it did move lol

 

Go back to the 1st Gen Forum and post there, or search on "carbon lock". Then, be gentle and get that SE back on the road!

 

Put on the RX-7 novelty plate I ordered off eBay. Not a perfect color match but good enough to cover two strips of missing paint. Next I'm going to replace the fuel pickup sock with one for a 1st gen Mustang.

 

received this, now to get it to fit.

 

Dropped the fuel tank, didn't find a a smoking gun for my highway stalling, as the pickup strainer wasn't really dirty. I did however find some tears in it letting dirt inside, would explain why the main filter gets dirty so quickly.

I replaced it with this fuel sock for a 1965-1973 Mustang, part # D1FZ-9A011-A from Scott Drake. It's for a 5/16 tube, it's a tight fit with the pipe grippers inside but it definitely won't come loose. It has less diameter than the original but it's taller.




I was having tank overpressurizing problems accompanying my stalling, so I followed advice from an old post on here and drilled a tiny bit larger hole in the charcoal canister restrictor. Now I can fit a paper clip inside to clean the opening, instead of my Grandma's sewing needle.

 

Installed new brake lines out of copper-nickel alloy, no leaks so far!

It appears when I did my drum to disk conversion 10 years ago RockAuto sent me three 9.7" caliper hoses instead of one being the 12" axle to chassis hose.
I bent the drum brake line clip on the axle to mount the tee, which is probably how I didn't notice the hose being too short. Got the right one now so the GSL-SE rear conversion is complete.

 

Started fixing my quarter panels, I ordered the wolf steel lower replacements, finally getting around to giving this car some love

 

Oh, hey - thank you for this. I had no idea anyone made replacement panels. The lower on the passenger side of my '79 rusted out from an antenna leak long before I got the car. It was completely Bondo at the bottom by the time I owned it! I thought I was going to have to cut up a donor vehicle.

 

Somehow stripped a tension rod bolt while trying to torque it. So annoying.

At least I finished my brake/wheel/hub swap. GSL-SE rear axle, TII brake conversion from now-defunct ACBron. 16x7 Enkei Compe +25 in rear, +38 in front.
Master cylinder and booster are next. It's friggin hot now. Also installed new control arms front and rear, can't wait to see how it drives.

 

Spent the whole day yesterday on the car. About 11 hours. The pilot bearing was toast and noisy, so replaced that, and did all the clutch parts since i was in there. When i took the starter down oil leaked out... The input shaft seal on the trans was leaking a lot so had to clean that mess and replace the seal. Once everything was ready to go back in the transmission found me like hell for 2 hours before i got it one. Splines were just very tight on the input shaft. Finally took the trans down, clean and lightly oiled the splines with brake caliper grease before it would mate. Then replaced the whole exhaust with the RB long primary system since what was in there was rather unfortunate and total a hack job.

 

Before

After