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Also bad news for all 84 and under owners .
Autozone has purged our car and it's parts from the parts catalouge .
The Rx7 no longer shows up on their in store computers and as of today the website gives us a error page not found.
Hopefully it's a mistake as the Rx3 and Rx4 still show up.. The guys at the store were almost hostile when asking if i had the " right" car.
Like yes a 1979 Rx7 is a car.
Just another reason not go to Autozone unless you have to.
In reality, most parts stores can get barely anything for our cars as it is. I know Advance doesn't carry any brake parts, and that's one of the most requested items at a local parts store for older vehicles. Granted, it would have been nice to still get the filter numbers and be able to search spark plugs, gaskets, bearings, etc. Hopefully it's a glitch, but I have a feeling it's not.
Just another reason not go to Autozone unless you have to.
In reality, most parts stores can get barely anything for our cars as it is. I know Advance doesn't carry any brake parts, and that's one of the most requested items at a local parts store for older vehicles. Granted, it would have been nice to still get the filter numbers and be able to search spark plugs, gaskets, bearings, etc. Hopefully it's a glitch, but I have a feeling it's not.
Autozone is all I have along with oriley .
I just buy air , oil and gas filters from there and my oil and premix ( walmart rarley has it in stock ), i also recently bought a felpro exhaust gasket from there .
I understand most of you hate the outrageous prices but sometimes it's all we have. Pep boys was hit and miss , I got a new rad for my dads truck for 102 $ ( 30% discount ) 3 core aluminum OEM clone. They had the Rx7 rad in stock for 390$ , autozone 500$ , both rip offs..But now that Pepboys is gone All i have near me is AZ or OR .
Advanced Autoparts has been " comming soon" for 3 years now.. I miss my old Pep Boys.
Back in the day i would go to a shop called " Clarks" they had just about every part you could think of or would order it, about 10 years ago they started having gaps in their inventory and now are just about the same .
Sadly probably. New rules for next year will render it ineligible, and the chassis is just plain worn out, cracking in places, etc. Have been competing with it since 2007 when it had 145k miles.... it is about 261k now. The rules change and other factors are why I have been working on the Mini all year.
Damn I need to get my car professionally painted. ^
Nice
I can't decide to go with Black or Yellow when I do. The interior is black as is the engine bay, jams are satin and the exterior is more of flat/home done job that looks ok with some tire wetter once in a while etc.
At least with a black interior you have the option of going either way with your paint choice. You would have to ask LongDuck about the particulars of keeping his yellow RX7 clean. I can tell you that the Sparkling Black Metallic (H1) RX7 color is a thing to behold when clean but black is a bitch to keep clean. Fortunately my car "semi-retired" and it's only driven in nice weather so it's easier to maintain then it was the 14 years it was my daily driver. My daily driver now is my 2000 Acura RL.
New NGK plugs, wires, new master cylinder as well. I need to flush the cooling system once my thermostat gets here, change the water pump and weld in a bung for my coolant temp gauge. Also ordered a short shifter for a Miata so I can use my Tomei shift ****. I can’t wait to get the cooling sorted so I can drive it this summer
Today I did my annual brake and clutch fluid replacement. Living in this high humidity, water infiltrates pretty quickly. Definitely notice with the brakes, so I do the clutch too.
I replaced the rear left brake hose and replaced the caliper seals.
The parking brake has been sticking on for that caliper and getting very hot. After peeling back the boot over the parking brake mechanism on caliper I found the torsion spring is completely bent and out of wack, does anyone know if this spring can be purchased somewhere?
I have one that I bought new years ago for an R/C airplane. Where did you see this?
It was at a hobby shop not to far from me, they had a collection of vintage rc car and plane stuff. It was in with a few other neat rc plane engines.
Figuring out fuel supply problems. For some reason my emissions ECU decided that instead of powering the fuel pump relay when it sees ignition signal, it would cut the relay off. I decided to bypass the relay/ECU control and wire a switch in line so I can turn the fuel pump off and on I whenever I want as long as the key switch is on.
I had taken off my cruise control actuator and still had the cruise switch in the dash, so after building a little sub harness from the fuel pump relay connector to the cruise switch connector I can now use the cruise control button to control power for the fuel pump. Saves adding another switch and means I can disable the car if I don’t want anybody else messing with it.
Even with a new factory pump (81-83 style) it’s still not flowing quite as much as the service manual recommends but it seems to be consistent enough with pressure to not make a difference. Now to get brave and do a long test drive - with somebody on standby to tow me back if it fails again of course. Motor runs great as long as it’s getting fuel.
Figuring out fuel supply problems. For some reason my emissions ECU decided that instead of powering the fuel pump relay when it sees ignition signal, it would cut the relay off. I decided to bypass the relay/ECU control and wire a switch in line so I can turn the fuel pump off and on I whenever I want as long as the key switch is on.
I had taken off my cruise control actuator and still had the cruise switch in the dash, so after building a little sub harness from the fuel pump relay connector to the cruise switch connector I can now use the cruise control button to control power for the fuel pump. Saves adding another switch and means I can disable the car if I don’t want anybody else messing with it.
Even with a new factory pump (81-83 style) it’s still not flowing quite as much as the service manual recommends but it seems to be consistent enough with pressure to not make a difference. Now to get brave and do a long test drive - with somebody on standby to tow me back if it fails again of course. Motor runs great as long as it’s getting fuel.
You should get 12V at the fuel pump relay with key ON regardless of an ignition (coil) signal. You can just jumper the fuel pump relay plug.
You should get 12V at the fuel pump relay with key ON regardless of an ignition (coil) signal. You can just jumper the fuel pump relay plug.
I've had it jumpered for testing and tuning, but plugged the relay back in for my last big test drive. Didn't want to leave a jumper dangling down where my foot might catch it or it might vibrate itself out.
It's weird, for a while the relay worked like it's supposed to then it acted like it somehow went from NO to NC. I've got an 85 12A so supposedly the relay doesn't turn on with the key switch until it sees ignition signal when cranking or running and that was how it worked. During my last test drive I got about 5 miles then it sputtered and died out with no fuel. After that when I checked it I was getting 12V to the pump with the key on but when I cranked and started the engine my fuel pump voltage went away.
Either way, it's bypassed now and under manual control so I know it runs when I want it to.
I've had it jumpered for testing and tuning, but plugged the relay back in for my last big test drive. Didn't want to leave a jumper dangling down where my foot might catch it or it might vibrate itself out.
It's weird, for a while the relay worked like it's supposed to then it acted like it somehow went from NO to NC. I've got an 85 12A so supposedly the relay doesn't turn on with the key switch until it sees ignition signal when cranking or running and that was how it worked. During my last test drive I got about 5 miles then it sputtered and died out with no fuel. After that when I checked it I was getting 12V to the pump with the key on but when I cranked and started the engine my fuel pump voltage went away.
Either way, it's bypassed now and under manual control so I know it runs when I want it to.
If you have a good ground and 12V source to the relay, then the next culprit would be the CPU.
The fuel pump relay IS a NC relay. It has contact all the time, supplying coil power breaks contact. The emissions computer actively kills the pump and passively allows it to run. Unplugging the computer will give you full time pump.
Early cars did not have a fuel pump relay, they were hardwired to the ignition switch.
I just did the every other month oil change. The oil used to be grey, now it is black. So the antifreeze in the oil fixed itself? Or the k & n oil filter worked its magic?
The fuel pump relay IS a NC relay. It has contact all the time, supplying coil power breaks contact. The emissions computer actively kills the pump and passively allows it to run. Unplugging the computer will give you full time pump.
Early cars did not have a fuel pump relay, they were hardwired to the ignition switch.
It's the computers ion cars that ruin everything. Now you have to pay a monthly subscription for your heated seats in new BMWs! WTF!
06-28-22, 12:02 PM
, but that's not necessarily the case for everyone.
O.S. Wankle Engine
