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Yeah at some point I’m gonna bypass all the computer stuff and simplify this thing so I’m not chasing down random ECU decisions. Right now just getting it back to operating condition.
The ECU literally does nothing but control the emissions solenoids and IIRC the air conditioning idle-up circuit (which is technically not an emissions solenoid ). It is a glorified relay box with controls by RPM switches and the TPS switch. I think they trigger the fuel pump to shut off the way they do because otherwise people might drive the car on leading ignition only, which works "okay" but could potentially slag the converters.
I remember the fuel pump relay being NC because for whatever Pete reason I wanted to use as much of the OE wiring as I could when I did the Megasquirt conversion on my '84. I tapped into power and ground at the emissions computer connections. Then I discovered that the relay was NC and I could not use it without another relay to control it, so I just ran some spade terminals to make a jumper wire set to connect the stock relay connector to a regular style relay. Relays controlling relays is some bastardization I won't stand for Knowing now what I know, I think a Miata fuel pump relay might plug in, and is an NO relay, but I'm not about to bother just in the name of science.
Years later I was chasing noise issues and ended up running a relay for the MS unit and injectors to a fat cable running directly off the battery. Didn't help the noise but it made me feel better...
Meanwhile, my 2006 Volvo, which is like ancient nowadays since its design is 20 years old already, is fully networked. That is to say, very few things have discrete wires going to places. The thing in particular where this concerned me beyond a "hmm that's neat" sort of way was when I installed a boost gauge and wanted to tap into the instrument lighting circuit. There almost isn't one. The dimmer sends its signal to the central electrics module, which sends data via network to the instrument cluster, the radio, the HVAC panel, the power window switches, etc to say how bright or not the backlighting should be, and the lighting is handled internally to each module. This cuts down considerably on how complicated the wiring is, but it ended up that the hazard switch is still too simple to have an internal computer so the CEM controls its backlighting directly, so I was able to tap into that for the gauge.
Where this is interesting in a "hey, that's convenient" sort of way was when I installed a trailer hitch and wiring. Everything is networked, right? You plug a box into the rear fusebox (which has a name I forget) and it reads the data coming on the network and sends the signal for the trailer lights. No tapping into the harness, no failure prone multiplexer unit to control a proper amber turn signal vehicle into the stupid best-government-corporate-money-can-buy all-red shared brake/turn lights, and it was fairly cheap too, only like $80 for the doodad and wiring. You easily have more than that with the hack-the-wiring setups once you put relays and a separate power feed in them so they don't break. If I got the 7-pin unit it would even send a signal to the ECM and TCM to put it into tow/haul mode when a trailer is connected.
Learning from my fellow forum members misfortunes with the their "old" donut spares I just got my new spare tire mounted, put my jack back in it's cradle, and purchased a collapsible breaker bar along with 21mm/19mm combo socket. Hope I "never" need it but I have it!
I did mine a few months ago, better safe than sorry. I can't imagine many companies making them in the future. Hopefully this one lasts as long as the original!
I've only needed a spare twice in my whole driving career, so hopefully that stays that way.
Learning from my fellow forum members misfortunes with the their "old" donut spares I just got my new spare tire mounted, put my jack back in it's cradle, and purchased a collapsible breaker bar along with 21mm/19mm combo socket. Hope I "never" need it but I have it!
check that jack ! Mine finally wore out. It served me well the 100's of times when doing maintenance.
When I bought my first 1983 GSL in 1988 it came with this Momo steering wheel.....
That was the rage back then in Puerto Rico....wooden steering wheels, shift ***** and also the 5 panel rear view mirror in wood also.....
I've been trying to find one of the 5 panel rear view mirrors in wood since I've been back in the island but they are nowhere to be found🤷♂️....I don't think they make then anymore.....
Say, kukutu1 -- I was pointed your way from another member of the forum.
I'd like to get a set of your 3D bushings for the wiper assy.
But I see the eBay listing has closed.
Am renewing some failed components in this 'green new deal' (one-owner).
Thanks for any help!
Say, kukutu1 -- I was pointed your way from another member of the forum.
I'd like to get a set of your 3D bushings for the wiper assy.
But I see the eBay listing has closed.
Am renewing some failed components in this 'green new deal' (one-owner).
Thanks for any help!
Hey! Yeah they are available. I actually made one of those free websites to try to get away from ebays crazy fees.
Sakebahn.com
You can also send me a PM.
Mods, if i cant post the site, please delete post. Want to make sure i am within the rules.
I was lucky enough to find this old fiberglass rear lip for a SA rx7. I ended cutting it a bit because I wanted to keep my side moldings in the rear. Ended up looking really good. Beside my crappy paint job I did.
Does anyone know happend to know the brand or name of it?
New floor and custom panhard rod finally complete. Removal of spare tyre well is to make way for a large LPG (propane) fuel tank or could be used for a fuel cell if I ever decide to go in a different direction
New floor and custom panhard rod finally complete. Removal of spare tyre well is to make way for a large LPG (propane) fuel tank or could be used for a fuel cell if I ever decide to go in a different direction
That spring is upside down. It's meant to be at the top to prevent scrubbing/vibration as I removed the rubber isolator to lower the rear a bit further.
That spring is upside down. It's meant to be at the top to prevent scrubbing/vibration as I removed the rubber isolator to lower the rear a bit further.
You removed the rubber isolator on both sides?
I know you drive a lhd car, so there is the possibility you have to correct the left hight.
I have this same steering wheel (and matching shift ****) that I took off my first car! It's just sitting in my garage. Didn't realize they were that old!
Originally Posted by raven12aFB
When I bought my first 1983 GSL in 1988 it came with this Momo steering wheel.....
That was the rage back then in Puerto Rico....wooden steering wheels, shift ***** and also the 5 panel rear view mirror in wood also.....
I've been trying to find one of the 5 panel rear view mirrors in wood since I've been back in the island but they are nowhere to be found🤷♂️....I don't think they make then anymore.....
Turns out if you blast a racing beat spring (with black beauty*) you find that the original heat treat scale is still there under the red powder. That’s why all of them flake. Went down to bare metal after that. Got mine powder coated, 2 color coats with a top coat, after I blasted them. Should be good for many seasons. Nicest looking RB springs I’ve ever seen.
Also, I misplaced my locking nut and washer for the front top bearing. Got lucky and had these flanged m14 10.9 nuts (belmetric) that match the thread of the rear suspension arms. A little loctite after the car is on the ground and it will be good.
I went the other way, in a concession to my age, and back, I sourced some OEM rear springs for my GSL-SE. I had them media blasted, powder-coated, and swapped them with Racing Beat rear springs. I am "really" enjoying the ride again so if you have an RX7 and plan on hanging on to it for a "long" time don't get rid of your OEM springs. Your back will thank you!
Interesting thing I discovered because it has been fifteen years since I had an RX-7 that I could drive over 70, and the speed limits were a lot lower then.
The thing I noticed is that the car ('81, stock 12A, '79 intake and carb) takes noticeably less power to drive at 80 than at 75. Like, I cross a threshold and it feels like the car is getting sucked along down the road and I only need a feather touch on the throttle to maintain speed. Exhaust gets noticeably quieter, etc. I just did a trip to Columbus and back and fuel stop to fuel stop I did nearly 30mpg driving this way.
Driving at 65mph or so requires dipping almost into the secondaries. Fuel economy is closer to 25mpg.
It's not an engine thing, because I tried keeping it in fourth gear and running around that critical engine speed and didn't feel that sensation of the engine getting a lot less loaded.
Finally decided to bite the bullet on my clutch. It's been making more and more noise unless you keep the pedal pushed in. I started taking things apart today.
The rear end leaks, I'm pretty sure there's not enough room to unbolt and re-seal, so the axles need to come out. The newish drums are slightly out of round, so I'm desperately trying to find someone to turn them. I didn't think it was going to be an issue, but no one wants to or able to. I hope I don't have the same problem with the flywheel, but I bet it's gonna be a problem.
I'm also going to take the driveshaft to get new ujoints, and the tail shaft seal leaks too. May as well do everything since I've got take it all apart.
It's gonna be out of service for a while, but since deer suicide season has started, I can't really drive it anyway.
07-25-22, 07:06 PM
). It is a glorified relay box with controls by RPM switches and the TPS switch. I think they trigger the fuel pump to shut off the way they do because otherwise people might drive the car on leading ignition only, which works "okay" but could potentially slag the converters.
