Be warned: the 3-row alu radiator I got off ebay DOES NOT FIT my car in any way shape or form, even though it specifically advertised for 84-85 gsl-se 13b mazda.

Just make super sure. The shorter radiator will require custom or modified lower radiator hose as well.

To get my radiator to work here is what will need to be done:
Custom coolant sensor for top hole (hole not right gauge)
Cut and re-weld lower radiator hose connector to better match the angle to /maybe/ fit a custom hose on there to hook up to my FC water pump
Purchase and install two 10" E-fans as the radiator (excluding tanks) is only 11" tall, radiator is thicker, and there are no provisions to bolt on the radiator shroud other than the one that is top and center.

Basically I paid $120 so that I can spend another $200 in fans, wiring, custom fabricating to get it to fit. Needless to say I'm a little frustrated at the whole experience.

 

Damn ioTus! That sounds like a lot of frustration. Why didn't you send it back when you realized it wouldn't fit? Now that you gave me the warning about the radiator I'm going to open the package and test fit it tonight. If it gives the same problems I'm sending it right back!

 

This evening, I finished cleaning up the last 14" alloy. Ordered some 205/55/14 Nitto NT01s for them using $200 worth of eBay Bucks I had in my account. Total cost for the tires was about $325.

fm

 

Good to know iotus...maybe i wont be doing that then....hello expensive as **** stock rad.....

Placd1 let me know if fitment is the same as what iotus had to deal with...

 

I'm glad aluminum just doesn't do it for me. I bought a couple of stock radiators recently. They fit the cars perfectly. Tall 83-85 copper/brass or whatever it is, painted black. A little more expensive, but in the end it costs less. Weird how that works, huh.

Don't worry ioTus, we'll learn yah yet.

 

I bought a 3 row Champion aluminum radiator (tall for an 85) off of ebay a while back before JCCS after seeing a few of them in some very nice builds on Jay Leno's Garage.

The radiator arrived about 36 hours after I placed my order, nicely packaged and protected.

Installation took maybe 20 minutes, using factory bracket points. I was even able to retain my stock fan setup.

I couldn't be happier with its looks and performance (for 200$) ;the temperature gauge doesn't ever move past the 1/4 mark.

 

I'm guessing you didn't notice any difference after you drilled your air cleaner lid.

 

Incorrect

 

More powerful? Less? It's sucking in warm air, which is never a good thing.

I'm asking because a friend has one and while it's ok power-wise, he could always use more. 6 port 13B with a Nikki on a modded manifold.

 

Honestly, I noticed quite a difference with my current setup. (Stock 12a with full rb exhaust)

That drilled air cleaner lid came on my spec 7 car, so I tossed it on my street car one day out of curiosity.

It makes a noticeable difference at the top end (where I spend my time), where it seems to pull harder and certainly climbs more quickly through the revs.

 

Go all out and try one of these cheapos. Mines's blue. Cut the collar off the stock can it fit right on.
I don't use it much because of the added noise, but it does work.

 

Did some sliding around during the ice storm in Atlanta today

12a with MindTrain exhaust, a bit too loud for me

 

It was cold in Socal a few weeks ago. It was 5 to 10 degrees below







Our usual 75 degrees lol

 

Ok, that's good to know. I have a spare lid and a hole saw...

 

Blaster HVC's showed up today. To install in the next few days.

Rad's almost burped now. Needs another hoonin' around the block.

 

Yeah I would have tried to return it - however I have this horrible tendency of buying lots of parts and having a stockpile of projects waiting to be done. I bought the radiator like 4 months ago and only now am getting to putting it in.

Most e-bay stores have like a 72 hour return policy from the time you hit "buy now" and its expired by the time it gets to your door an exaggeration but yeah - I took to long to test fit it, and now i pay the price.

I'm not sure what I'll do about the radiator situation, I'm already 2 projects deep with the wire tuck (nearly done) and the Megasquirt install (just beginning). I was hoping it was going to be a quick install - as its supposed to be - not another f*$ing fab job.

 

1985 GSL-SE: Removed the rear wiper arm because the splines are all stripped out. Not sure how to fix this.

1985 GSL-EV: Drove it to work the last two days. The last few times I drove it the batteries were so cold it didn't do well. Today I did a short burnout just because I could. Also punched it up to 90 on a road that shall remain unnamed. Planning on working on the front battery box lid this evening.

General: Ordered some silicone material for mold making. Ordered a vacuum chamber to degas resin. Still looking for the right vacuum pump.

 

Nice! I could not even get close to doing that on my current setup as the car would barely move due to lack of wet/clod traction. I wouldn't try it anyway as there is salt everywhere here so it is nice, clean, and tidy in my garage next to my snow blower which is getting a lot more use than it is.

Even my wife's fwd Lexus was not going anywhere. We carpooled in the X5:

 

My aluminum 3 row radiator and 16" 2200cfm electric fan arrived in the mail today. I bought these items from a company based in Calgary that also sells on eBay. Here's what the products look like.
Will test fit the radiator tomorrow and give a full review. At first glance the quality of the radiator seems pretty good. Nice welds and construction.

 

Rad burping complete; no leaks. 75 degrees outside and dry; water temp gauge never got more than 1/4" above the bottom index. Oil temp was about 170. That's done.

Now, ignition tuneup, timing, mix tune, and the dreaded smog check!

 

Been fairly nice all week but today was first chance I got to mess with the GSL-SE. It had flooded out on start a couple of weeks ago and I had not gotten back to it. Was going to stick a charger on it this morning but decided what the heck lets see if it will start and it started! Was running rough on one rotor for a few seconds and then the other caught. Took it for a drive long enough to get her warmed up. I have had plugs since last summer but never seemed to get to changing them. Did that this afternoon and found that the ones the PO had put in were not correct. They used BR9EQ-14's instead of the BR8EQ-14 plugs. If I am not mistaken the 9's are a hotter plug. They didn't look bad but the gap was wide. Seems to run better, idles a little slow now.

Took the GSL-EV for a drive to lunch and the supermarket. I was practicing burnouts with it yesterday and got my worst economy ever (63.5 MPGe.) The EV conversion makes burnouts so easy. Left foot on brake, apply throttle in first gear. If it starts to move add more brake, add more throttle until the wheels start spinning. Moderate your speed with the brake. I could probably make parallel lines until the brake rotors overheated or the tires wore out.

Doug

 

Replaced the worn idler arm on my 83 GSL with a Moog idler arm. Great improvement in construction. Got a proper alignment done and she runs in a dead straight line now with no hands on the wheel. I'm a happy camper once again cause I don't have to correct a constant pull to the right. Next project is to change out my radiator for the 3 row aluminum one that I just got. Test fit it today and it was almost perfect. There's one bolt hole missing on the right hand side. Easy fix though.

 

dougingraham, BR9EQ-14 is the correct plug for a stock GSL-SE. It is a colder plug. I once took out a set of worn 9 plugs and swapped in a set of new 8 plugs. Seemed to run maybe a little better.

 

Replaced plugs, cap, rotor with OEM parts. Got out the timing light, and discovered that my trailing was firing like 90% of the time on the leading signal. Wrote a long thread post about it in the process answered my own question.

Swapped out the ignitor control box to my spare - problem seems to have gone away.

Also gone is my long-standing idle instability (burble/sneeze) I've been chasing for years.

Timing's locked on now. Not sure if I'm gonna fiddle with the mix at all; Idle's right at 800rpm and it smells clean.

Now, to decide; get smog check as is, or swap in blaster coils under premise of maybe a bit better combustion.

Plugs looked pretty good, coming out after 2 years:

 

Interesting. I just assumed the BR8's were the stock recommendations since that is what Mazdatrix shows for the 84-85 13B. In my case it could be running better simply because the gap is correct.