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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 11:55 AM
  #4351  
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From: Collinsville, OK.
I'm an s2 owner and agree, sounds cool.
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #4352  
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From: KC
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I really like the look of that clear pickup cover, ioTus. Hopefully the lack of shielding over the top doesn't cause you any RFI grief.

I'm still plugging away at reverse engineering the 80 ignition. I'm about 80% of the way through creating the schematic for the ignition control unit, & it's starting to make sense how it works. Also correcting the factory wiring diagram, which is quite famously wrong (or at least incomplete) in the connections surrounding the "Ignitor" legend on diagram B.

One of the complicating factors; most of the discrete transistors & diodes in common use in 1980 are no longer made, and trying to find data sheets for them is a pain even when the markings are readable. The web is near-useless where electronic component data from the age before the internet existed is concerned.

I used to have electronic component reference books for this period; tossed them a dozen or more years ago, once they became obsolete and I got out of the electronics hobby.

At least resistor color codes haven't changed.
I was a Navy Electronics Technician back in the 1980's and had a ton of these books to. I might be able to help.
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 11:42 PM
  #4353  
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I was a Navy Electronics Technician back in the 1980's and had a ton of these books to. I might be able to help.
The transistors are 2SA and 2SC series like the old Toshiba silicon, but the actual series numbers are not in some of the few contemporary references Ive dug up so far:

2SA965 PNP transistor
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC620 NPN transistor

Also, some odd plastic-encapsulated diodes marked only RA-1 and RA-2

Finally two large (3/4" x 3/8") 4-lead radial-packaged parts marked S51A05 and S51A12, made by OKI back before Rohm bought them, that I think may be reed relays.

There are a couple glass-capsule diodes that don't seem to have series marks, but look to be about the same size as the old 1N914 diodes you saw everywhere back then.

I'll know more once I have the schematic sussed out, & do some nodal analysis, as a lot can be surmised looking at currents and voltages as defined by the resistors used to bias and limit the transistor circuits.

I was a crypto tech and instructor out at 29 Palms in the early 80's and for many years before that a hobby builder & breadboard expeirmenter. But man, are those memories rusty now!
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 11:54 PM
  #4354  
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DivinDriver, I'm looking for a circuit that will convert 12V to a regulated 3V and 5V with a common ground. It is for a TV digital to analog convertor. I need it so when the power goes out, I can still watch TV. Not interested in an AC inverter. The TV is a little black and white Bentley so it has its own batteries (12V worth of D cells, which I can tap into for the circuit).

I'm fine with wiring but not so good with the discrete electronics. But I can solder and follow directions. Built a Megasquirt which worked fine first try. I've been soldering since about '87 for hobby projects etc.

We can take this to PMs if necessary (probably a good idea). Oh and there might be a prize in it for you if you can help me. A little J-105 action maybe.
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 12:28 AM
  #4355  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
DivinDriver, I'm looking for a circuit that will convert 12V to a regulated 3V and 5V with a common ground. It is for a TV digital to analog convertor. I need it so when the power goes out, I can still watch TV. Not interested in an AC inverter. The TV is a little black and white Bentley so it has its own batteries (12V worth of D cells, which I can tap into for the circuit).

I'm fine with wiring but not so good with the discrete electronics. But I can solder and follow directions. Built a Megasquirt which worked fine first try. I've been soldering since about '87 for hobby projects etc.

We can take this to PMs if necessary (probably a good idea). Oh and there might be a prize in it for you if you can help me. A little J-105 action maybe.
I'll have to clear out some PM space (almost full just now). Do you know how much current out you need for each voltage? It'll make a big difference in how your supply goes together.

If it's less than a couple amps each, a couple LDO chips, a heat sink. and a handful of resistors & caps will do the job.

Something like this, http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm350-n.pdf
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 02:42 PM
  #4356  
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Hit something big this morning & tore out my speedometer cable at the dash apparently.
Smh.
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 03:34 PM
  #4357  
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what i did with my fb today. well yesterday i cut it in to 10 pices after stripping it to a shell today it wentto scrap whats a shell worth you ask. 82$ with out doors glass eng trans and a lot of plastic and a bunch a good parts still left any takers? what i did with my sai fired it up the other day firt time in mounths springs here. she will never go to a scrap yard enless totaled and than shed probly sit in my yard mangled any way
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 05:33 PM
  #4358  
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From: KC
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
The transistors are 2SA and 2SC series like the old Toshiba silicon, but the actual series numbers are not in some of the few contemporary references Ive dug up so far:

2SA965 PNP transistor
2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC620 NPN transistor

Also, some odd plastic-encapsulated diodes marked only RA-1 and RA-2

Finally two large (3/4" x 3/8") 4-lead radial-packaged parts marked S51A05 and S51A12, made by OKI back before Rohm bought them, that I think may be reed relays.

There are a couple glass-capsule diodes that don't seem to have series marks, but look to be about the same size as the old 1N914 diodes you saw everywhere back then.

I'll know more once I have the schematic sussed out, & do some nodal analysis, as a lot can be surmised looking at currents and voltages as defined by the resistors used to bias and limit the transistor circuits.

I was a crypto tech and instructor out at 29 Palms in the early 80's and for many years before that a hobby builder & breadboard expeirmenter. But man, are those memories rusty now!
2SA965 PNP transistor
2SA965 NTE Equivalent NTE383 T-PNP SI AF DRIVER... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE383.pdf

2SC711A NPN transistor
2SC711A(BCE) NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf

2SC620 NPN transistor
2SC620-E NTE Equvilent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP AMP
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE85.pdf
2SC620 NTE Equivalent NTE85 T-NPN SI GENERAL PURP ... - Wholesale Electronics
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #4359  
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Bought it a friend while I wait for my wheels to come in. Tires, valve stems, and lug adapters are already here.



Attachment 524920


Ran into some issues with my wheels. Business one was back ordered, but they refunded me. Business two was back ordered, but they refunded me. Business three gave me an answer that they were back ordered before I ordered. Went back to business one and ordered a different style of wheel, with free shipping and 15% discount for my "troubles" because of back ordered wheels. Would gladly recommend the company, but unsure of rules on posting companies. Will answer PMs for anyone interested. Here is the wheels I got for a whopping $358 for the whole set. 15x8 4x114.3 +20 offset.

What did you do to your FB today?-image-1967831195.jpg

Will be putting these Kumho Ecsta AST 205/50/15 that I got for $312 shipped.

What did you do to your FB today?-image-4268779926.jpg
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #4360  
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This didn't get added in the first post. Newest FB that I've bought.

What did you do to your FB today?-image-3746861314.jpg
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 10:03 PM
  #4361  
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Beauty!

Virtually certain the 'big' components are reed relays; each has a small-signal diode across pins 1 and 4 which would be normal for CEMF damping of a relay coil, and the other two pins look to carry signal through under certain conditions dictated by connections to the ECU. Still not quite done plotting the circuit (time constraints , takes concentration) but it's coming along. Most of the transistors look to be working in switching, rather than amplifying, mode.

Once I know what it does, I'll be looking for ways to improve it (better isolation, more current carrying capacity) with more modern components.

Nothing like a puzzle.
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 10:24 PM
  #4362  
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Jeez,
Just when I begin to think this forum has sank to a level commensurate with my dumb ***, you guys have to go and start this ****!!

Just one more blow to my struggling self esteem ..........
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 01:23 PM
  #4363  
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Don't feel bad, man; discrete analog electronics is darn near a dying art.

Everybody uses ASICs, micro-controllers, and software today to do what used to be built up from off-the-shelf parts.

I had to cope with the previous transition, too; when I first started messing with electronics as a hobby, tubes were still a common, though fading, tech.

It's like carbs vs fuel-injection. The older technology has become a specialty & a niche.
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #4364  
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I put my nikki carb hat on my 600cfm Edelbrock
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your FB today?-101231_053.jpg  
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #4365  
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Qindao - love it!!

So far today:

Fresh rear hatch "RX-7" decal installed, thanks Turbogslse!!!
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your FB today?-image-2116644999.jpg  
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 11:13 PM
  #4366  
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Trace, trace, trace... man, this little box is twisty inside.
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 01:05 AM
  #4367  
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Started her up and took her to her first auto-x event of the year. Changes since last auto-x event:

- 14x7 aluminum alloys (weigh about 2.5 lbs more each than my 16x7 TE-37s.
- new Nitto NT01 for said alloys
- Weber 45 DCOE side-draft carb

Had a brain fart and forgot to shift from first to 2nd until 1/3 of the way through the course on my first run, but still ran a 53.211. My best run (also my last run) was a 51.272. The fastest cars (maybe 30 or so) were doing 43-46 sec runs. These were buggies, all-race subies, 510s, Merkurs, Z06s, and a handful of turbo Miatas. Cars in the"reasonably fast" group were in the 47-52 sec range. About half of the rest of the participants were slower than 52. Overall, I'm very pleased...I know with more seat time, the car could do high 40s on this course. On a stock port 12A.

The best part was watching an M3 owner walk up and peer into my engine compartment wondering what magic allowed me to best him. The look on his face was one shock and utter confusion.

On-board vid to come tomorrow. No vid of the M3 owner tho.

fm
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 01:59 AM
  #4368  
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Sounds fun FM - I'm definitely fixing to get into some auto-x action this year.

Today i built some ignition coil brackets and fitted them up.



The bracket material is too thin and they wobble - absolutely will not suffice. They are also a little higher than I had wanted, and are stretching the wires a bit taught. For a test fit not bad, gives me a good idea, and I have some basic props to take to a fabricator and explain what I need.




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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 10:42 AM
  #4369  
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ioTus, I like your coil mounting idea. If I swap an S4 NA complete setup into the red car, I'll need to do something similar because it too has power steering. Of course if it went into the REPU, the coil mounting is a piece of cake with plenty of room. Still mulling it over.

Hmm, one option for the red car is to take off the two coils from the trailing ignitor, hook the wires up to the stock Diamond coils and mount the trailing ignitor where it's convenient. Then take off the leading coil from its ignitor, mount the coil to the strut tower (at the 45 degree flat part with two threaded holes where your front most trailing coil is) and put the leading ignitor where its convenient. I'd be left with two stock trailing coils for another project. See, the red car still has a battery up front, so I'm kinda limited in space.

Of course the other option is to do a MegaSquirt. Then we could do whatever ignition we want. But then it's a daily driver and the owner might not want to have to keep a laptop in the car for tuning all the time like he had to with his other MS project, which still doesn't run right.
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #4370  
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Yesterday's fun:

NorCal UFO Auto-X @ Marina Airport 2/23/14 - 1985 RX-7 4th run - YouTube

fm
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 05:39 PM
  #4371  
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Finished up restoration on a nice set of SSR this morning, and listed them for sale. A little jealous that they're considerably nicer than my own wheels :/



What did you do to your FB today?-image-2408033012.jpg
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 02:50 PM
  #4372  
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attempted to start it. Failed miserably, flooded my plugs and flooded my engine.
Cranks but doesn't seems to catch
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #4373  
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Originally Posted by RxTex
Finished up restoration on a nice set of SSR this morning, and listed them for sale. A little jealous that they're considerably nicer than my own wheels :/



Attachment 525126
Just curious, do those fit under stock fenders?
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #4374  
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Jibaro_12A,
Pull your plugs, blow out the gas by cranking it (after removing the coil wire to the dizzy), clean up the plugs, and put them back in. Then turn the key on, pull the choke, stomp 2 times and crank her over.

Mine was cold-blooded, even in the warm CA climate and I had to set the choke in order for her to start right away. Also, try unhooking your charcoal cannister. I found that my 300K+ mile charcoal canister was saturated and caused my flooding issues. After replacing it with a sprightly 80K mile canister, I never had flooding issues again. If that works for you, find a replacement canister. Anyway, YMMV.

fm
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 05:35 PM
  #4375  
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Originally Posted by Fungus Mungus
Jibaro_12A,
Pull your plugs, blow out the gas by cranking it (after removing the coil wire to the dizzy), clean up the plugs, and put them back in. Then turn the key on, pull the choke, stomp 2 times and crank her over.

Mine was cold-blooded, even in the warm CA climate and I had to set the choke in order for her to start right away. Also, try unhooking your charcoal cannister. I found that my 300K+ mile charcoal canister was saturated and caused my flooding issues. After replacing it with a sprightly 80K mile canister, I never had flooding issues again. If that works for you, find a replacement canister. Anyway, YMMV.

fm
thanks for the insight! I've done everything except unplug the charcoal canister. I'll give it a shot tonight
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