Get the Blitz FMIC, then when you have some free time convert it to a V-mount . If you find a used one and need the mounting hardware, let me know I have it all (new).

It should cost you about $600 to make the custom tubing, radiator modifications, and mounts. If you're interested let me know and I can take some detailed pics and give you more details on how I mounted mine.

I've seen the HKS V-mount in person and it's not that great. The mounting hardware is ok (not as good as the Blitz parts), the radiator sits too low and too far forward, and the tubing is routed funky because the radiator is just flipped.

Here's someones install pics:

http://public.fotki.com/fong/carsusa...mount/install/

I think there was a Rotary Extreme V-mount up for sale recently as well. That only needs a minor bit of adjustment / customization. I had a monster one that I sold because the mounting was lacking (the IC was actually floating with only mounting at the front), there was no ducting at all, and the radiator was too low / too far forward.

 

IC "floating" is not a bad thing. You will need some movement unless your going to let the couplers do all the flexing for you. That usually leads to them comming off. I agree with the HKS unit from the pics I saw awhile back it looked like a after thought.

-S-

 

It is when the design allows the IC to rub against the radiator.

 

Very very true, but most people should know those things, or pay attention and a little foam sealing tape goes a long way

-S-

 

ewww he winked at u.

 

It only floats in the back, the front is bolted next to the hood latch. Using a little foam tape to cover up a bad design is a good thing? Not to mention that the foam will not protect the radiator from the up and down movement of the IC over a long period.

Anyhow, back on topic; where's the money shot?

 

Oh but it will, I have used foam tape many a time. I have been making and running VMIC's for a very long time and the right foam tape will work just fine for years of abuse. I'm not argueing with you or defending chucks design by the way. I think your setup is coming along very nicely. I was just pointing out that having the IC float is not a bad thing. And forget the money shot I want to hear the damn exhaust!!

-S-

 

Im using foam tape here with np at all so far! been 2 years and the foam tape is holding up great.

 

Lol, still no money shot. There is no ic in the engine bay yet anyway.

We got her running, and damn is she LOUD

The exhaust has a low deep rumbling note to it, sounds intimidating as hell. I haven't really driven the car yet b/c of lack of an ic or bov, but i don't think it's much louder than it was before (3 inch dp, 3 inch mp, 3.5 inch hollowed out hks muffler rear section). I may have to do something to quite it down a little bit, but I'm very happy with the tone.

There seems to be a serious exhaust leak coming from somewhere around the turbo. From up top we can't feel any exhaust leaking, and there is no smoke to speak of. The sound is deafening though. Loud clattering sound, you can shut the hood and walk 30 feet away and still hear it. I'm hoping it's something simple like one of the wg connections.

 

I'd 3rd staying away from the HKS v-mount.

How Chuck interpreted my ideas and feedback is interesting. It's a decent design, but it could have been done better. From the pictures I've seen of Sean's, it looks good.

Why was it that you can't just use your ASP IC at least temporarily? Trying to make everything bigger in one swoop?? I have some spam mail I can forward you, then...

 

GoodfellaFD3S - looks really nice, i also want to hear that exhaust!

Zero R - are you using hump hoses? because my v-mount is bolted to the frame with the IC pipes welded to the end tanks and haven't had any problems with the couplers popping off im using samco sport hump couplers.

 

I haven't had any issues using couplers on my setup but I have seen where if the engine moves too much and the IC is mounted firmly if you don't have enough "slack/play" in the couplers they will pop off under load. I try and stay away from the hump hoses as I feel the tend to disrupt flow more than necessary. I have just used longer length coupler to compensate. Just my opinion though. The samco stuff is nice stuff.

-S-

 

I agree w/ ZeroR.

I couldn't see adding hump hoses after porting, polishing, pinning and knife edging every inch of my intake tract.

I used a solid engine torque brace from alt mount to strut tower.

No problem w/ engine movement and solid mounted IC w/ short 1 ft pipes and 3" couplings. Some rotary gear whine throught the chassis and a bit more movement at the trans mounts.

 

yes, i want to see some footage of that thing. please.

 

Alright Rich. Get off your *** and get that thing goin! Bump for long weekend video footage opportunities! G

 

Ha! The car is at Ihor's and he has some Ukrainian festival at his house today, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow. I'm going to borrow a buddy's camera that takes video clips with sound to get some of her idling

 

i want PICTURES NOW! dammit

 

My LIM is "cerama-chromed" and though it doesn't have many miles on it, the finish seems to hold up just fine to the heat. However, I imagine that the actual temp depends a lot on how close the turbo stuff is to the manifold, so it might vary a lot from car to car. But mine doesn't show any heat damage.

-Max

 

I got a question, maybe Zero R can answer it for me. How necessary do you think the 4 inch exhaust is to achieve the numbers that like Broken09 got. I mean do you think that the 430 number at 1 bar could be done on a 3 inch?

 

He did 436@15lbs with the 3" exhaust. The 4" helps more with response than power, by relieving BP of the turbine, at lower boost/power levels. Hope that helps.


-S-

 

Looks like the 4 inch exhaust gave about 10-15 peak rwhp as well as better response. Sounds about right to me.

Sean, I am going to send you an email, please check it when you get a chance.

Btw guys, I snapped some engine bay pics today, I'll have them DLed and posted sometime tomorrow.

 

Yeah that answers my question, but I coulda swore that Broken posted somewhere that he had a 4", oh well. I was thinking that it maybe only affected the response but i couldn't be sure. How much of a response difference do you think it is?

 

Broken09 does have a full 4 inch exhaust. I patterned my exhaust after what he was running, but had a magnaflow muffler welded into the midsection to try and quiet things down a bit.

Broken also told me that with the 3 inch exhaust he made 450 at 17 psi, and with the 4 inch exhaust he made 450 at 15 psi. That was enough to convince me to run the larger exhaust

 

Did some testing on this many years ago, 4" will give you some gains BUT the noise can be horrendous (it all depends on the rear muffler!)

My SP has 4" dump pipe, then 3.5" main pipe with expansion chamber 4" then 3.5 to rear muffler *straight through 3.5* and 4" tail pipe, it is dead quiet on cruise with no droning and has a fantastic hummm to it, at WOT and full power its ear piercing

I have no resonator or mid muffler or cat (when testing) and its totaly quiet If you need to order a SMB muffler form Australia they are FD specialists

http://www.smb.net.au/certificate.htm

 

Aha, secret sauce revealed (4" exhaust + 93 oct fuel)! I would have got a 4" down pipe if i'd had known it would have increased the efficency so much but still not 4" all the way. It's nice around town with a loud rumble but I like my luxary too much. If you get it quiet on highway, please post a sound clip.