R85 installed, pics...
#178
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Here is a crappy quality vid( lighting/visualwise)please dont flame me I wasnt filming... of my gt40r at 10 psi.....http://www.snapoffracing.com/videos/ChrisFlyBy.wmv
#179
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rotoboy661
how did u instal the 3 bar???
1. Trim the new plastic connector so that it fits into the new MAP sensor (you need some slots in the connector barrels -- it's easy to see what to do with the parts sitting in front of you, I used a utility knife to make the modifications)
2. Cut the stock connector off
3. Connect the wires from the new connector to the stock harness with the supplied butt connectors (or whatever else you like, wiring details here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...32&postcount=4 )
4. Unbolt the stock MAP sensor bracket from the firewall, disconnect the vacuum line, and remove it from the car
5. Connect the new map sensor to the wiring harness and vacuum hose, hold it in place with some cable ties on the hardlines that follow the firewall
6. Use cable ties on the wiring if you'd like
7. Change the PowerFC map sensor settings to Option 2, scale 41800, offset 0
Test it out before you jam the boost to make sure that it seems to be reading the manifold pressure correctly.
-Max
#180
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Not sure if it matters to any of you, but:
When Demetrios wideband tuned my car (not running an R85), we talked about adding the 3-bar sensor, and he told me that the maps wouldn;'t be right after the instal... requiring a re-tune. Something to think about. I know some folks said that about 1300 cc injectors, but I just slapped mine in, and changed the injector timing settings in the PFC, and was good to go. Not sure if this is the same sort of operation.
When Demetrios wideband tuned my car (not running an R85), we talked about adding the 3-bar sensor, and he told me that the maps wouldn;'t be right after the instal... requiring a re-tune. Something to think about. I know some folks said that about 1300 cc injectors, but I just slapped mine in, and changed the injector timing settings in the PFC, and was good to go. Not sure if this is the same sort of operation.
Originally Posted by maxcooper
It's easy:
1. Trim the new plastic connector so that it fits into the new MAP sensor (you need some slots in the connector barrels -- it's easy to see what to do with the parts sitting in front of you, I used a utility knife to make the modifications)
2. Cut the stock connector off
3. Connect the wires from the new connector to the stock harness with the supplied butt connectors (or whatever else you like, wiring details here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...32&postcount=4 )
4. Unbolt the stock MAP sensor bracket from the firewall, disconnect the vacuum line, and remove it from the car
5. Connect the new map sensor to the wiring harness and vacuum hose, hold it in place with some cable ties on the hardlines that follow the firewall
6. Use cable ties on the wiring if you'd like
7. Change the PowerFC map sensor settings to Option 2, scale 41800, offset 0
Test it out before you jam the boost to make sure that it seems to be reading the manifold pressure correctly.
-Max
1. Trim the new plastic connector so that it fits into the new MAP sensor (you need some slots in the connector barrels -- it's easy to see what to do with the parts sitting in front of you, I used a utility knife to make the modifications)
2. Cut the stock connector off
3. Connect the wires from the new connector to the stock harness with the supplied butt connectors (or whatever else you like, wiring details here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...32&postcount=4 )
4. Unbolt the stock MAP sensor bracket from the firewall, disconnect the vacuum line, and remove it from the car
5. Connect the new map sensor to the wiring harness and vacuum hose, hold it in place with some cable ties on the hardlines that follow the firewall
6. Use cable ties on the wiring if you'd like
7. Change the PowerFC map sensor settings to Option 2, scale 41800, offset 0
Test it out before you jam the boost to make sure that it seems to be reading the manifold pressure correctly.
-Max
#181
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
Not sure if it matters to any of you, but:
When Demetrios wideband tuned my car (not running an R85), we talked about adding the 3-bar sensor, and he told me that the maps wouldn;'t be right after the instal... requiring a re-tune. Something to think about. I know some folks said that about 1300 cc injectors, but I just slapped mine in, and changed the injector timing settings in the PFC, and was good to go. Not sure if this is the same sort of operation.
When Demetrios wideband tuned my car (not running an R85), we talked about adding the 3-bar sensor, and he told me that the maps wouldn;'t be right after the instal... requiring a re-tune. Something to think about. I know some folks said that about 1300 cc injectors, but I just slapped mine in, and changed the injector timing settings in the PFC, and was good to go. Not sure if this is the same sort of operation.
Another issue to consider is that you might want to rescale the boost map in the PowerFC to be able to take advantage of the new range in your MAP sensor. You can interpolate your old map into a new map, but that process probably isn't perfect and you'll need to come up with new numbers for areas that your old map didn't cover.
All in all, you're right -- you should retune with the new MAP sensor. But understanding the issues and effects will help you make use of the map you currently have to use as a starting point (perhaps with a little more fuel added just to be safe).
-Max
#184
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Join Date: Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by maxcooper
Good to know. Thanks.
Does the RX-8 have an electric air pump? How much does it cost (I bet a lot)? Perhaps there are some other domestics with reasonably priced electric air pumps that would work.
-Max
Does the RX-8 have an electric air pump? How much does it cost (I bet a lot)? Perhaps there are some other domestics with reasonably priced electric air pumps that would work.
-Max
-Alex
#185
development
Originally Posted by maxcooper
Was the advice from the Vette forum to run the air pump at lower voltage to extend it's life? That's what it sounds like, but I want to make sure that is what you meant.
-Max
-Max
mine runs from 800rpm to 3000rpm.
#186
Weird Cat Man
Originally Posted by dubulup
right...they said the pump never ran at 12V. I hooked it up at 12V (for a test) and the thing was hummin'
mine runs from 800rpm to 3000rpm.
mine runs from 800rpm to 3000rpm.
#187
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
RX-8 has an electric air pump. I think it's around $400, made by Bosch.
Chuck
Chuck
Originally Posted by maxcooper
Good to know. Thanks.
Does the RX-8 have an electric air pump? How much does it cost (I bet a lot)? Perhaps there are some other domestics with reasonably priced electric air pumps that would work.
-Max
Does the RX-8 have an electric air pump? How much does it cost (I bet a lot)? Perhaps there are some other domestics with reasonably priced electric air pumps that would work.
-Max
#188
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
I replaced the oil thermostat today. That was the problem for the oil temps -- now my (post-cooler, as it enters the engine) temps are much lower. They seem to stabilize at about 140F during light highway cruising on this 60F-ish night. They got up to perhaps 165 tops while sitting in normal surface-street traffic. Wow, that's almost too cold. I didn't pay much attention to the oil pressure before other than noticing that it was healthy. Now I'm getting >100psi while cruising at 3000 RPM. I am running 20W-50 oil now, but I think I might switch to something thinner now.
I also noticed that the oil thermostat wasn't plumbed quite right, now that I have the installation instructions. However, I am pretty sure I've had it plumbed wrong for some time, since Mazdatrix marked the inlet on the old thermostat and installed it the same way I had it before. I'm not sure if the plumbing error was making it not work, or perhaps led to the failure. I wonder if the other failures were also due to the plumbing? It seems to me like it might work either way, but perhaps the valve only works correctly when it is plumbed the way the instructions say. I didn't feel like switching the plumbing around and re-testing, so I just installed the new thermostat the right way and it works fine now. I guess I'll keep my old one as a spare (even though it might indeed be bad). Here's the right way (in bad ascii-art, that I am sure will get messed up -- just picture an H on it's side, with the bolts that hold it together coming out the bottom):
cooler-------inlet
| (the bolts come out of the bottom)
cooler-------outlet
The bolts were coming out the top the way I had it (incorrectly) installed before. The instructions also list another way to plumb it (though not the way I had it), but I don't have the instructions handy.
My coolant temps were down a little, too. They were in the low 170s while highway cruising, where they were in the high 170s in very similar test conditions before I replaced the oil thermostat. Note that I have a few holes drilled in the thermostat (to help flow a lot of NPG+ coolant), so the coolant temps can get below the thermostat opening temp.
I attached some more pics. One shows the GM 3-bar map sensor installation and my TwinPower mounting position on the cruise control unit (it's been there for a long time, but it's a good place to mount it, so I included it in the picture). I also got a Gotham Racing heat blanket for the turbo and there are 3 pics that show it installed. It fits fine, and you hold it in place with some safety wire on the metal posts that I thought were snaps or something in the pics on the Gotham site (http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...roducts_id=856). It is nice and thick, easy to install, and seems way better than the universal kits available from DEI and Thermo-Tec that I have read about. I did the "can you touch the blanket while the engine is hot test tonight when I got home" and indeed, it is cool enough to touch the outer surface of the blanket. Granted, I wasn't boosting much, but the engine was nice and warm and still idling when I did the test. I don't have any measurements, but it does seem like things are bit cooler under the hood with the blanket installed.
In other news, I have gotten used to the Exedy Hyper Single clutch now and I consider it to be steetable. I think half of the improvement was the clutch braking in, and the other half was me getting used to driving it. It engages more abruptly than an organic clutch and you can't really slip it much, but it generally works fine on the street. Very low speed stuff like backing out of a parking space or putzing around a parking lot is no problem at all. The pedal stiffness is very reasonable, and I expect it to hold much better than my old CFDF clutch under power. The whole assembly is a few pounds heavier than my RB aluminum flywheel and OEM-style clutch package, but the engine still revs up quickly and it generally feels like a light-flywheel setup (which I very much enjoy). It is still much lighter than stock, and behaves accordingly. I am happy with it.
-Max
I also noticed that the oil thermostat wasn't plumbed quite right, now that I have the installation instructions. However, I am pretty sure I've had it plumbed wrong for some time, since Mazdatrix marked the inlet on the old thermostat and installed it the same way I had it before. I'm not sure if the plumbing error was making it not work, or perhaps led to the failure. I wonder if the other failures were also due to the plumbing? It seems to me like it might work either way, but perhaps the valve only works correctly when it is plumbed the way the instructions say. I didn't feel like switching the plumbing around and re-testing, so I just installed the new thermostat the right way and it works fine now. I guess I'll keep my old one as a spare (even though it might indeed be bad). Here's the right way (in bad ascii-art, that I am sure will get messed up -- just picture an H on it's side, with the bolts that hold it together coming out the bottom):
cooler-------inlet
| (the bolts come out of the bottom)
cooler-------outlet
The bolts were coming out the top the way I had it (incorrectly) installed before. The instructions also list another way to plumb it (though not the way I had it), but I don't have the instructions handy.
My coolant temps were down a little, too. They were in the low 170s while highway cruising, where they were in the high 170s in very similar test conditions before I replaced the oil thermostat. Note that I have a few holes drilled in the thermostat (to help flow a lot of NPG+ coolant), so the coolant temps can get below the thermostat opening temp.
I attached some more pics. One shows the GM 3-bar map sensor installation and my TwinPower mounting position on the cruise control unit (it's been there for a long time, but it's a good place to mount it, so I included it in the picture). I also got a Gotham Racing heat blanket for the turbo and there are 3 pics that show it installed. It fits fine, and you hold it in place with some safety wire on the metal posts that I thought were snaps or something in the pics on the Gotham site (http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...roducts_id=856). It is nice and thick, easy to install, and seems way better than the universal kits available from DEI and Thermo-Tec that I have read about. I did the "can you touch the blanket while the engine is hot test tonight when I got home" and indeed, it is cool enough to touch the outer surface of the blanket. Granted, I wasn't boosting much, but the engine was nice and warm and still idling when I did the test. I don't have any measurements, but it does seem like things are bit cooler under the hood with the blanket installed.
In other news, I have gotten used to the Exedy Hyper Single clutch now and I consider it to be steetable. I think half of the improvement was the clutch braking in, and the other half was me getting used to driving it. It engages more abruptly than an organic clutch and you can't really slip it much, but it generally works fine on the street. Very low speed stuff like backing out of a parking space or putzing around a parking lot is no problem at all. The pedal stiffness is very reasonable, and I expect it to hold much better than my old CFDF clutch under power. The whole assembly is a few pounds heavier than my RB aluminum flywheel and OEM-style clutch package, but the engine still revs up quickly and it generally feels like a light-flywheel setup (which I very much enjoy). It is still much lighter than stock, and behaves accordingly. I am happy with it.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 03-06-05 at 01:34 AM.
#191
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
I still need to get a bigger air filter, tune it, plumb the WG dump back into downpipe (haven't cracked the gate yet, but I am sure it will be LOUD!), ceramic coat the exhaust stuff.
And there's always a bunch of other stuff...
- suspension bushings
- suspension alignment & corner balance
- fab another piece of ducting/air blocker -- I couldn't use one of the fabbed pieces when we relocated the oil thermostat up into the nose next to the IC
- remove J&S (decided not to run it anymore)
- replace my in-dash SPA gauges with the newer display units so I can still read them when warm
- figure out some kind of cold(er) air intake
- clean/detail (it's a mess right now)
Hey, that's not too bad. That's about the shortest my to-do list has ever been.
-Max
And there's always a bunch of other stuff...
- suspension bushings
- suspension alignment & corner balance
- fab another piece of ducting/air blocker -- I couldn't use one of the fabbed pieces when we relocated the oil thermostat up into the nose next to the IC
- remove J&S (decided not to run it anymore)
- replace my in-dash SPA gauges with the newer display units so I can still read them when warm
- figure out some kind of cold(er) air intake
- clean/detail (it's a mess right now)
Hey, that's not too bad. That's about the shortest my to-do list has ever been.
-Max
#192
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iTrader: (126)
the wastegate isnt bad at all. my old hks gt was twice as loud. why the bigger filter?
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I still need to get a bigger air filter, tune it, plumb the WG dump back into downpipe (haven't cracked the gate yet, but I am sure it will be LOUD!), ceramic coat the exhaust stuff.
And there's always a bunch of other stuff...
- suspension bushings
- suspension alignment & corner balance
- fab another piece of ducting/air blocker -- I couldn't use one of the fabbed pieces when we relocated the oil thermostat up into the nose next to the IC
- remove J&S (decided not to run it anymore)
- replace my in-dash SPA gauges with the newer display units so I can still read them when warm
- figure out some kind of cold(er) air intake
- clean/detail (it's a mess right now)
Hey, that's not too bad. That's about the shortest my to-do list has ever been.
-Max
And there's always a bunch of other stuff...
- suspension bushings
- suspension alignment & corner balance
- fab another piece of ducting/air blocker -- I couldn't use one of the fabbed pieces when we relocated the oil thermostat up into the nose next to the IC
- remove J&S (decided not to run it anymore)
- replace my in-dash SPA gauges with the newer display units so I can still read them when warm
- figure out some kind of cold(er) air intake
- clean/detail (it's a mess right now)
Hey, that's not too bad. That's about the shortest my to-do list has ever been.
-Max
#193
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
I want to keep the car as quiet as I can to avoid loud muffler tickets and keep my hearing. I am pretty sure I'll want to plumb the WG to the downpipe, even if it isn't that loud.
I think the air filter that comes with the kit is too small. However, I am still glad it was provided -- it should fit with most setups and it's one less thing to worry about until you are ready for something else. I will probably get a 4" aluminum 45 degree bend and mount a larger filter on that.
-Max
I think the air filter that comes with the kit is too small. However, I am still glad it was provided -- it should fit with most setups and it's one less thing to worry about until you are ready for something else. I will probably get a 4" aluminum 45 degree bend and mount a larger filter on that.
-Max
#194
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (126)
i had this filter on my kkk turbo so dee used it for his kit.
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I want to keep the car as quiet as I can to avoid loud muffler tickets and keep my hearing. I am pretty sure I'll want to plumb the WG to the downpipe, even if it isn't that loud.
I think the air filter that comes with the kit is too small. However, I am still glad it was provided -- it should fit with most setups and it's one less thing to worry about until you are ready for something else. I will probably get a 4" aluminum 45 degree bend and mount a larger filter on that.
-Max
I think the air filter that comes with the kit is too small. However, I am still glad it was provided -- it should fit with most setups and it's one less thing to worry about until you are ready for something else. I will probably get a 4" aluminum 45 degree bend and mount a larger filter on that.
-Max
#195
Weird Cat Man
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I want to keep the car as quiet as I can to avoid loud muffler tickets and keep my hearing. I am pretty sure I'll want to plumb the WG to the downpipe, even if it isn't that loud.
-Max
-Max
On my car with an open wastegate, Summit Point threatened to throw me off the track because my car was "way over" the 108 dB at 50 feet that is their cutoff for noise. And that's a -track-, not the street where loud noise is really unappreciated!
#196
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Originally Posted by Wargasm
If you live in an area where they aggressively ticket loud cars, you WILL have to get it plumbed in to avoid a ticket. When you're just cruising around, it's not loud at all since the wastegate is not open... but if you stomp on the gas once, everyone in a 1 mile radius will know about it.
On my car with an open wastegate, Summit Point threatened to throw me off the track because my car was "way over" the 108 dB at 50 feet that is their cutoff for noise. And that's a -track-, not the street where loud noise is really unappreciated!
On my car with an open wastegate, Summit Point threatened to throw me off the track because my car was "way over" the 108 dB at 50 feet that is their cutoff for noise. And that's a -track-, not the street where loud noise is really unappreciated!
the tials arent really loud. my exhaust is almost as loud.
#197
VVThat's meVV
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The clutch feels like, when reving, a lighter one due to the fact that its a smaller diameter(sp I'm drunk). If, of course, its built the same way my twin is... I think its a 200 where the stock is 260ish. I think...
Going for more stuff now...
Going for more stuff now...
#198
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Wargasm
If you live in an area where they aggressively ticket loud cars, you WILL have to get it plumbed in to avoid a ticket. When you're just cruising around, it's not loud at all since the wastegate is not open... but if you stomp on the gas once, everyone in a 1 mile radius will know about it.
Originally Posted by Wargasm
On my car with an open wastegate, Summit Point threatened to throw me off the track because my car was "way over" the 108 dB at 50 feet that is their cutoff for noise. And that's a -track-, not the street where loud noise is really unappreciated!
-Max
#199
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Klar
The clutch feels like, when reving, a lighter one due to the fact that its a smaller diameter(sp I'm drunk). If, of course, its built the same way my twin is... I think its a 200 where the stock is 260ish. I think...
Going for more stuff now...
Going for more stuff now...
-Max
#200
WTB** Very Low Miles 94-95
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you will get a ticket for that wastegate dump too...it is loud loud loud. I had mine plumbed back in..it was just too loud for the city. I was embarrassed...its not like that sounds good ya know? especially to those cash hungry courts.....the loss of hp is worth it in that case if you drive on the street.
j
j