But the T-78 does have fitment issues and isn't really engineered that well.

 

just get a torque brace and everything is solved.

 

A few months back I asked Dee if he thought I had enough clearance with my GT35R compressor. He looked at it and said it was fine, and that his turbo has less clearance and it isn't a problem.

 

I think I was even closer then ccarlisi after seeing his setup with my t04r and I never had an issue

 

The reason why the T-78 has fitment issues is because it was engineered for a JDM RX7. It will fit a US spec RX7 with minimal modifications. Japanese tuners have been using that turbo since the dawn of a single turbo RX7 and continue to still use that turbo today.

 

The fact that you have to shave the LIM or dent the DP means to me that it's got fitment issues, either way you look at it. The turbo is just modified Mitsubishi turbo, which isn't all that great if you ask me. The design is old and showing it's age. Parts are hard to purchase for the turbo when it comes rebuild time unless you want to get raped by Greddy or Trust or want someone to build you a super special hybrid from parts of other turbos. It's also a heavy mother f#cker because it's old school design, and less efficient then the newer designs turbos.

 

So what should I do, I am getting the kit very soon, I want to make over 400 horses at 15 PSI, but I want the turbo to be reliable and fairly cheap, as I don't have more than $3600 to spend for a kit.

 

I would go for the R85 or GT40R for numbers like that.

 

My Turbonetics T66P (nonball bearing) w/ 0.96 hotside housing on a 2mm stockport made 402 whp and it wasn't too terribly expensive. I hope to install my spare 3mm streetport with a 3 bar MAP before long.

Though kits are convenient, sourcing out the system can save you much money. Just make certain the turbo and header are compatable AND fit in the bay. I see guys get these hugh-*** turbos and headers that don't fit for ****. That situation is a mega-waste of money and time. You can build or find a really nice I/C and save several hundred in the process. Fab up your downpipe and save money, and get good prices on your ECU, BOV, W/G, boost controller, and mandrel aluminum bends, silicone couplers, gauges and pods, ignition upgrades, and you should be able have the good stuff for less than you thought you'd have to pay.

Best of luck to you.

 

Any updates for us Max?

 

Update: I work too much and haven't talked to the shop in over two weeks. I need to at least check in for a status update this week.

-Max

 

Max any updates on your car.

regards

erdin

 

I just haven't had much time to get the project moving lately. Fab work started this week. We're going to turn the turbo compressor back up again and weld a 90 degree bend on it. Fab stuff should be done in a week or two. I am going to stop by next week and I'll snap some more pictures if I remember to bring my camera.

-Max

 

remember post your dyno sheets!

 

Hey Max,

I can stop by the shop and snap a few photos for you???? It looks like Matt will be busy with your setup for awhile.

 

You have my permission to take pictures of anything you want on my car and post them here. I'm actually looking forward to seeing it.

-Max

 

Nevermind a im sure all the extra work will be worth it in the end

Regards

Erdin

 

Update: The radiator, AC, and IC have been mounted and the IC pipes are done. The last bits are hooking up the oil cooler lines (need to move the thermostat a bit), filling it with oil and coolant and starting it up. I'm busy as hell at work, so this isn't going to happen immediately, but it is getting very close...

I forgot my camera when I stopped by to see it last week, but the stack of heat exchangers was in place and the tubes were taking shape. It looks great. I won't be able to get cold intake air, but the heat exchangers are nicely stacked up and the ducting will do a good job of making sure all the air will go through the cores, without blocking the entrance too much (the IC core is back a ways from the opening). The radiator fans will pull air through all three cores, too, which should be nice. There's still some question about whether it will overheat on the track, but I'll just have to try it and find out. So far, I am really happy with how the custom fabbed stuff is coming together.

-Max

 

I'm sorry if I missed it someplace else Max, but what FMIC did you end up going with and why? Also making the switch to Evans? A vented hood in your future?

 

I bought this FMIC: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=280049

However, I ended up modifying it significantly. Now it mounts at an angle (stock-radiator kind of angle, but not as steep) with the AC condensor behind it and my aluminum radiator behind that. It all fits in there really nicely, and I think I'll be able to run a small (PC680) battery in the engine compartment so I don't have to mess with cut-off switches. I know, I should just put it in the bin, but the PC680 is only 15 lbs and it avoids several hassles, including removing my roll bar to get the interior panels out. All the cores are higher than my sway bar mounts and tow hooks, too, to keep them safe from damage. I went front mount since people have seemingly been able to run them without overheating on racetracks lately, they make dyno tuning easier (even though I'll be street tuning ) since they suffer less heat soak, and they seem to cool the intake air better according to a few comparisons posted on here. We'll see how it turns out.

I am switching to Evans, but I don't know how well that will turn out, either. We'll see. I want a bullet-proof cooling system and I had a few boil-overs with water, so I'm going to try Evans and see how it works. I also switched back to the stock main pulley to keep the speed of the water pump up and reduce the chance of belt slipping.

I don't want a vented hood, really. Maybe a low-key one painted the same color as my car would do. It isn't a show car and I'd rather not attract anymore attention than it already does. I might try one if I find that the new setup runs too hot.

-Max

 

>>I am switching to Evans, but I don't know how well that will turn out, either.

Hi Max, I use evans in both my cars, let me know if you have any questions.

>>I also switched back to the stock main pulley to keep the speed of the water pump up and reduce the chance of belt slipping.

I am not sure you want to do that if you are changing to evans?? You want the pump moving slower, especialy with evans, when seeing a lot of high rpm driving.

 

Doesn't Evans transfer heat less efficiently than water? If so I would imagine it would be beneficial to reduce the water pump speed.

 

Thanks damian. I might have some questions soon as we start it up. It does occur to me that the thicker Evans coolant would seem to increase the drag from the water pump, but I still have an underdrive water pump pulley. Without the air pump, using the largest alternator, water pump, and main pulleys will give the most belt contact, so that's what I'm going to try first.

Actually I think it transfers heat better, but holds less of it. These units (heat lumps = some quantity of heat energy) are totally imaginary, and I don't know if the ratio is right in my example, but think of it like "a gallon of Evans will suck up two lumps of heat faster than greased lightning, but that's all it will hold" versus "water's a little slower to take it in, but a gallon will hold four lumps worth". That's my layman's understanding of it. That makes me think you want to pump lots of Evans through the engine. I know some recommend that you drill holes in the thermostat to increase flow when switching to Evans.

-Max

 

I think the way the Evans works is like this.... Water will absorb more heat with no temperature change than evens will. But Evens will absorbe and release heat faster than water will.

To me it sounds like since Evans absorbs and releases heat faster than water it doesnt need to stay in the engine or radiator as long as water would. This makes me think it would be benificial to increase the pump speed. Well, one thing is for sure, its easy to change a water pump pulley so you could test it both ways and see how it turns out.

Stephen

 

>>makes me think it would be benificial to increase the pump speed.

>>That makes me think you want to pump lots of Evans through the engine.

hey guys, i just want to clarify somthing, I am talking about racing rpm application only, so my reasoning for suggestiong a slower pully was to prevent cavitation at constant high rpm drivng, obviously in genereal, you want as much coolant flowing as possible to increase heat transfer but cavitation will be eliminate that benefit in a hurry.... and at low speed/rpm its dosnt matter if the slower pulley is moving less coolant because your not generating a lot of heat at low speed/rpms.