You need to make vids of this car after your break in. I am looking into this turbo and I would like to see what it can do.

 

how did u instal the 3 bar???

 

Here is a crappy quality vid( lighting/visualwise)please dont flame me I wasnt filming... of my gt40r at 10 psi.....http://www.snapoffracing.com/videos/ChrisFlyBy.wmv

 

It's easy:
1. Trim the new plastic connector so that it fits into the new MAP sensor (you need some slots in the connector barrels -- it's easy to see what to do with the parts sitting in front of you, I used a utility knife to make the modifications)
2. Cut the stock connector off
3. Connect the wires from the new connector to the stock harness with the supplied butt connectors (or whatever else you like, wiring details here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...32&postcount=4 )
4. Unbolt the stock MAP sensor bracket from the firewall, disconnect the vacuum line, and remove it from the car
5. Connect the new map sensor to the wiring harness and vacuum hose, hold it in place with some cable ties on the hardlines that follow the firewall
6. Use cable ties on the wiring if you'd like
7. Change the PowerFC map sensor settings to Option 2, scale 41800, offset 0

Test it out before you jam the boost to make sure that it seems to be reading the manifold pressure correctly.

-Max

 

Not sure if it matters to any of you, but:
When Demetrios wideband tuned my car (not running an R85), we talked about adding the 3-bar sensor, and he told me that the maps wouldn;'t be right after the instal... requiring a re-tune. Something to think about. I know some folks said that about 1300 cc injectors, but I just slapped mine in, and changed the injector timing settings in the PFC, and was good to go. Not sure if this is the same sort of operation.

 

It shouldn't make any/much difference if the new MAP sensor yields the same readings on the PowerFC that the old MAP sensor did for the same real manifold pressures. However, that is a big "if". In reality, there probably is some change in the profile or centering of the scale relative to atmospheric pressure. Chuck and Kyle have written up some info on making your MAP sensor read your pressures correctly: https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/pre-tuning-preparation-363664/. Assuming that you did this before your initial tune with the old MAP sensor and with your new MAP sensor, the differences should be small. However, I know that most people haven't done this with the stock sensor and won't do it with the new sensor, either.

Another issue to consider is that you might want to rescale the boost map in the PowerFC to be able to take advantage of the new range in your MAP sensor. You can interpolate your old map into a new map, but that process probably isn't perfect and you'll need to come up with new numbers for areas that your old map didn't cover.

All in all, you're right -- you should retune with the new MAP sensor. But understanding the issues and effects will help you make use of the map you currently have to use as a starting point (perhaps with a little more fuel added just to be safe).

-Max

 

max, clean your pm's.. im trying to send you a message and cant!!!

 

Cleaned, shoot.

-Max

 

You can also get an air pump from a BMW. Several of their cars have them, if not all of them. You can get them on ebay at a pretty decent price. If you just run the air pump during smog, you shouldn't have a problem burning it up. Not sure how long they run, or when they run, on the BMW's.

-Alex

 

right...they said the pump never ran at 12V. I hooked it up at 12V (for a test) and the thing was hummin'

mine runs from 800rpm to 3000rpm.

 

I hook mine up in a very temporary setup for passing emissions using a cockpit switch... I did some testing and after about 1-2 minutes, it is VERY hot (near 175 F), so you don't want to run it long. This was done at 12 volts.

 

RX-8 has an electric air pump. I think it's around $400, made by Bosch.

Chuck

 

I replaced the oil thermostat today. That was the problem for the oil temps -- now my (post-cooler, as it enters the engine) temps are much lower. They seem to stabilize at about 140F during light highway cruising on this 60F-ish night. They got up to perhaps 165 tops while sitting in normal surface-street traffic. Wow, that's almost too cold. I didn't pay much attention to the oil pressure before other than noticing that it was healthy. Now I'm getting >100psi while cruising at 3000 RPM. I am running 20W-50 oil now, but I think I might switch to something thinner now.

I also noticed that the oil thermostat wasn't plumbed quite right, now that I have the installation instructions. However, I am pretty sure I've had it plumbed wrong for some time, since Mazdatrix marked the inlet on the old thermostat and installed it the same way I had it before. I'm not sure if the plumbing error was making it not work, or perhaps led to the failure. I wonder if the other failures were also due to the plumbing? It seems to me like it might work either way, but perhaps the valve only works correctly when it is plumbed the way the instructions say. I didn't feel like switching the plumbing around and re-testing, so I just installed the new thermostat the right way and it works fine now. I guess I'll keep my old one as a spare (even though it might indeed be bad). Here's the right way (in bad ascii-art, that I am sure will get messed up -- just picture an H on it's side, with the bolts that hold it together coming out the bottom):

cooler-------inlet
| (the bolts come out of the bottom)
cooler-------outlet

The bolts were coming out the top the way I had it (incorrectly) installed before. The instructions also list another way to plumb it (though not the way I had it), but I don't have the instructions handy.

My coolant temps were down a little, too. They were in the low 170s while highway cruising, where they were in the high 170s in very similar test conditions before I replaced the oil thermostat. Note that I have a few holes drilled in the thermostat (to help flow a lot of NPG+ coolant), so the coolant temps can get below the thermostat opening temp.

I attached some more pics. One shows the GM 3-bar map sensor installation and my TwinPower mounting position on the cruise control unit (it's been there for a long time, but it's a good place to mount it, so I included it in the picture). I also got a Gotham Racing heat blanket for the turbo and there are 3 pics that show it installed. It fits fine, and you hold it in place with some safety wire on the metal posts that I thought were snaps or something in the pics on the Gotham site (http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...roducts_id=856). It is nice and thick, easy to install, and seems way better than the universal kits available from DEI and Thermo-Tec that I have read about. I did the "can you touch the blanket while the engine is hot test tonight when I got home" and indeed, it is cool enough to touch the outer surface of the blanket. Granted, I wasn't boosting much, but the engine was nice and warm and still idling when I did the test. I don't have any measurements, but it does seem like things are bit cooler under the hood with the blanket installed.

In other news, I have gotten used to the Exedy Hyper Single clutch now and I consider it to be steetable. I think half of the improvement was the clutch braking in, and the other half was me getting used to driving it. It engages more abruptly than an organic clutch and you can't really slip it much, but it generally works fine on the street. Very low speed stuff like backing out of a parking space or putzing around a parking lot is no problem at all. The pedal stiffness is very reasonable, and I expect it to hold much better than my old CFDF clutch under power. The whole assembly is a few pounds heavier than my RB aluminum flywheel and OEM-style clutch package, but the engine still revs up quickly and it generally feels like a light-flywheel setup (which I very much enjoy). It is still much lighter than stock, and behaves accordingly. I am happy with it.

-Max

 

That's pretty damn secksi.

 

whats left to do max?

 

I still need to get a bigger air filter, tune it, plumb the WG dump back into downpipe (haven't cracked the gate yet, but I am sure it will be LOUD!), ceramic coat the exhaust stuff.

And there's always a bunch of other stuff...
- suspension bushings
- suspension alignment & corner balance
- fab another piece of ducting/air blocker -- I couldn't use one of the fabbed pieces when we relocated the oil thermostat up into the nose next to the IC
- remove J&S (decided not to run it anymore)
- replace my in-dash SPA gauges with the newer display units so I can still read them when warm
- figure out some kind of cold(er) air intake
- clean/detail (it's a mess right now)

Hey, that's not too bad. That's about the shortest my to-do list has ever been.

-Max

 

the wastegate isnt bad at all. my old hks gt was twice as loud. why the bigger filter?

 

I want to keep the car as quiet as I can to avoid loud muffler tickets and keep my hearing. I am pretty sure I'll want to plumb the WG to the downpipe, even if it isn't that loud.

I think the air filter that comes with the kit is too small. However, I am still glad it was provided -- it should fit with most setups and it's one less thing to worry about until you are ready for something else. I will probably get a 4" aluminum 45 degree bend and mount a larger filter on that.

-Max

 

i had this filter on my kkk turbo so dee used it for his kit.

 

If you live in an area where they aggressively ticket loud cars, you WILL have to get it plumbed in to avoid a ticket. When you're just cruising around, it's not loud at all since the wastegate is not open... but if you stomp on the gas once, everyone in a 1 mile radius will know about it.

On my car with an open wastegate, Summit Point threatened to throw me off the track because my car was "way over" the 108 dB at 50 feet that is their cutoff for noise. And that's a -track-, not the street where loud noise is really unappreciated!

 

the tials arent really loud. my exhaust is almost as loud.

 

The clutch feels like, when reving, a lighter one due to the fact that its a smaller diameter(sp I'm drunk). If, of course, its built the same way my twin is... I think its a 200 where the stock is 260ish. I think...

Going for more stuff now...

 

That is what I am worried about. One wastegate dump witnessed by a cop is a "ticket me and harass me constantly!" call that I don't want to make. That said, I did get into the boost enough to open the gate a bit tonight (on an overpass over a busy freeway, with no other cars in the immediate vicinity), and it wasn't nearly as loud as I expected. I doubt it opened very much, however, so I might be in for a surprise when I am ready to do a full-boost tear all the way to redline. I still want to get it plumbed into the downpipe. If I lived somewhere that the general population didn't tolerate heavy handed governmental controls (CA amazes me in that most residents seem to think Draconian CARB/SMOG rules and ticket-happy police are normal and okay), I don't think I would mind having it dump from the noise perspective.

I would like to be able to run at Laguna Seca again, and their 90-95 dB limits are a stretch even with no external wastegate dump and good muffling. That's another reason why I feel that I must get it plumbed back into the downpipe. I'm not sure having it dump where it currently does (straight down, but from above the subframe) is a good idea for road racing situations where you are on boost a lot for long stretches of time anyway.

-Max

 

That could be -- I didn't measure it. It looks roughly stock-sized, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was smaller than stock. Whatever the case, it feels great to me now and it should hold better than OEM-style alternatives.

-Max

 

you will get a ticket for that wastegate dump too...it is loud loud loud. I had mine plumbed back in..it was just too loud for the city. I was embarrassed...its not like that sounds good ya know? especially to those cash hungry courts.....the loss of hp is worth it in that case if you drive on the street.

j