The story of my single turbo conversion with only about 2000 miles on it since the conversion.

Ok, 2 days ago after few minutes from driving my coolant light came on. I pulled up straight away bought some water from and toped up the coolant. Almost a litre or more.

Parked the car up, then the next day I checked coolant and it was slightly down again. Topped it up once more.

Today I checked coolant and it was full. So I drove off and all went ok for first part of the drive. An hour later drove off again and got onto the motorway, pulled hard on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear and came off the motorway the next junction and came to traffic lights stop. When lights changed the car almost stalled when I tried to move it and then after few meters driving up the road the engine sounded funny as well as the exhaust was bit louder.

After few moves and stops basicelly I found that the engine idle is much rougher now (idles around 1100 RPM) and sounds like up and down that's beside the louder exhaust now. It also feels like it lost torque/power.


Running Garrett GT4088 @ 1 bar since the dyno and always been like that. I'm preparing my self for the worse and expect the engine to need a rebuild.

I have got the DIY RE-13B 4 DVD box set, my question is if rebuild is needed what parts are needed apart from the current engine (assuming the rotors and housing are in usable condition)? I want to build the engine to stand more boost/power and be reliable for many miles.



What rebuild kit would I need and from where can I get it?
What size Apex tips to use, there's alaways debate between 2mm & 3mm
Any special tools needed apart from the standard tools need to remove the engine and dismantle it?

Your help in this guys is very much appricated. I want to keep my FD as I love it and love that rotary engine while everyone else is telling me to get rid of it. But I'd rather build this engine to put the car back on the road for much more many miles to go.

PS. I Will give the housing to a specialist to get the housing street ported.

 

Well if it is blown, chances are you'll at least need a housing. Although I've popped one before and only put a couple of nicks in the compression stroke area....

I'd first to a compression test and be sure that its nothing simple like a fouled plug, or a broken spark plug wire causing it to run on one rotor (which by the sounds of your description is what its doing) before goign to the lengths of tearing it apart.

 

yup, do a compression test for starters

 

sorry, sounds like rebuild time. Compression test is simple, buy a ceap comp. guage at autozone, remove check valve and turn it over on front then rear watching guage. You could also buy a compression leak tester that checks for compustion in the coolant. Who did the last rebuild and how many miles on the motor?

 

I will do compression test shortly as this is common thing to do before tearing the engine down but not raising my hopes so high just to let down again and find the worset had happend.

The engine was never rebuilt before, JDM import FD 93/94 model with 60,000 km on it now.

Still searching around and there are endless posts and reviews about Atkins, Hurley, RA, Ceramic, etc apex seals. Also some say 2mm others say 3mm and mention of 3mm casuing damage to rotor housing.

Last dyno was 337whp @ 1 bar of boost which thought was pretty low for rotary engine with 700+hp turbo. Previous compression readings were high 7s for the front rotor and low 8s for the rear rotor. I understand that power would have been limited due to being non ported engine but still seen others achiving 400+whp on similar setups.

I want to build this thing now to be able to handle 500-600whp on 95 Octane, and intend to re-use most my parts inc turbo, injectors, ECU, wastegate, downpipe, etc. Assuming street port will be sufficient for such powers or would need to a bigger port!!!

 

If you threw a seal, there is a high probability that you may be rebuilding your turbo as well. So add that to the list just in case

 

Do a comp test the easy way.

Pull your leading plug on one housing at a time, pull IGN/FUEL fuse and crank it over. If you don't hear three loud pssshhhtttss then blown motor.

 

You won't make 600 rwhp on 95 octane gas, assuming your ratings are the same as ours.

As far as apex seals, I recommend Mazda OEM 2 piece 2mm seals. No advantage gained by using the others, unless you want to step up to ceramics.

 

If I remeber correctly, I think their octane rating differs from ours. His 95 octane is like our 91 octane. Corrrect me if I'm wrong.

 

As Rich siad dont waste your time on any other seals. Just get mazda oem's or ALS seals (I am running these). As far as 2mm or 3mm goes, just depends on the condition of your rotors, but I would buy used rotors and stay with 2mm if needed.

 

BP here is rated in 3 categories at the pumps:

95 Octane
99 Octane
110 Octane (only avilable at selected pumps)

The differences in price between 95 & 99 Octanes are marginal and can afford to buy any of them while the 110 Octane is 3 times the price of 95 Octane.

 

So you reckon that 2mm OEM Apex seals can handle enough boost for a 500-600whp? I know that Mazda used to have 3 peice Apex seals but now they used 2 peice instead which makes it more reliable.



Can anyone list parts with numbers for full rebuild?

 

Apex Seals 6 N351-11-C00C
Apex Seal Spring - Inner 6 N326-11-C04A
Apex Seal Spring - Outer 6 N326-11-C06C
Corner Seals & Plug 12 N326-11-C20A
Corner Seal Springs 12 NF01-11-C24
Side Seals 12 N3Y1-11-C11
Side Seal Springs 12 NF01-11-C17
Oil Seals (Inner/Outer) 4 8871-23-180

O-Ring Seal (Inner) 4 0820-11-341
O-Ring Seal (Outer) 4 8341-11-343
Oil Seal Spring -
Front Inner 2 N225-11-351
Oil Seal Spring -
Front Outer 2 1011-11-353A
Oil Seal Spring -
Rear Inner 2 N225-11-361
Oil Seal Spring -
Rear Outer 2 1011-11-363A
Oil Seal - Front Cover 1 N3A1-10-507
Oil Seal - Rear Stationary Gear 1 1668-10-556A
Complete Gasket & O-Ring Kit 1 Kit 8DFE-10-271

 

Lots and lots are making well over that on 2 piece oem's.

 

Just tried to start engine with front and rear rotors seperately. Rear rotor no start, front rotor starts with rough idle and white smoke. Same if started with both rotors, rough idle and white smoke.

Also checked coolant level and it has dropped again, so basicelly coolant must be getting into rotor housing which is possibly a damaged water gasket or more.

I will either borrow or buy a compression test gauge but this will most likely re-confrim my findings.

Guess will start taking this thing apart over the next few weeks. At least can have it ready for the summer.

 

I think the ALS seals have proven to be pretty strong. Its hard to say they are "better" than oem 2 piece seals but I would definitely recommend them to those looking to make 450+rwhp.

Just my recommendation, everyone has their own opinion on seals.