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Thanks Ray
My 1985 has a redline buzzer, but my 1983 never buzzed (and it had ample opportunities). Should the 1983 have buzzed?
I can't comment on the year by year stuff, but I've had a few cars with dead buzzers. Way back when, I'd replace them (on the back of the cluster) with a radio shack buzzer, kinda sounded like an RX8 buzzer then.
Very cool! There's a OGTA extras meet this Thursday, you should bring it out. I think they're doing it at the Sugar Hill Distillery 1166 Church St, Sugar Hill, GA 30518
Sooo, engine is running hot. No heater and no thermostat. It looks like water was currently used to diagnose cooling issue and had a swollen lower coolant line. No coolant in the exhaust or oil. I was thinking about draining all the water and filling it up with coolant to see if perhaps it's overheating because of water. Thoughts???
I like the RX8 seats! Rad looking truck. Are those Toyota wheels? They look pretty good on there!
I don't think straight water would make it run hot, I've ran only water in cars many times to flush the system or test with no ill effects. Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge on your dash? I can't tell by the pics. That one on the radiator is probably inaccurate, in my experience.
Do you have one of these funnels that clamps down on your radiator cap hole?
I would put the trucks cooling system back together and put that funnel on the radiator. Fill it up with water (enough so there's an inch or 2 worth sitting in the funnel), start the truck, bring it up to temp and let it burp out all the air in the system (you'll probably have to add more water to the funnel 2-4 times as it burps out the air). After a few minutes at operating temp, if you see constant tiny bubbles coming up through the radiator into the funnel, that would tell you if you have combustion gasses entering your cooling system (so blown coolant seal). It's not a surefire indicator but it'd help.
When it runs hot, is that while it's sitting idling or only when you drive it? I'd assume only when driving- so you might want to check the operation of your cooling fan. My dumbass has wired up one backwards in the past, that eventually resulted in a blown engine... Live and learn :-) Running hot could also be caused by a clogged radiator (extended use of straight water or old coolant can do that), a blockage in the cooling system, shitty water pump, air in the system, etc.
It could well be a coolant seal issue, just trying to throw out other possibilities! Good luck man!
Has anybody on here taken apart a rotary that had blue devil run through it? Asking for a friend
The only motor I've seen with that stuff run through it was in a junk yard, I'd like to have seen inside it though! I always thought it clogged up everything it wasn't supposed to, and usually didn't clog over whatever leak it was intended to fix
I like the RX8 seats! Rad looking truck. Are those Toyota wheels? They look pretty good on there!
I don't think straight water would make it run hot, I've ran only water in cars many times to flush the system or test with no ill effects. Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge on your dash? I can't tell by the pics. That one on the radiator is probably inaccurate, in my experience.
I would put the trucks cooling system back together and put that funnel on the radiator. Fill it up with water (enough so there's an inch or 2 worth sitting in the funnel), start the truck, bring it up to temp and let it burp out all the air in the system (you'll probably have to add more water to the funnel 2-4 times as it burps out the air). After a few minutes at operating temp, if you see constant tiny bubbles coming up through the radiator into the funnel, that would tell you if you have combustion gasses entering your cooling system (so blown coolant seal). It's not a surefire indicator but it'd help.
When it runs hot, is that while it's sitting idling or only when you drive it? I'd assume only when driving- so you might want to check the operation of your cooling fan. My dumbass has wired up one backwards in the past, that eventually resulted in a blown engine... Live and learn :-) Running hot could also be caused by a clogged radiator (extended use of straight water or old coolant can do that), a blockage in the cooling system, shitty water pump, air in the system, etc.
It could well be a coolant seal issue, just trying to throw out other possibilities! Good luck man!
As of right now it over heats at idle. Around 30 minutes. I had the lower coolant hose swell up real bad. It doesn't have a thermostat either. I do have a aftermarket temp gauge and it was around 180 when the hose started to swell.
The truck is really cool. Those are Toyota wheels. The cool part is the driver seat is power and it works. Overall she starts right away with no issue.
As of right now it over heats at idle. Around 30 minutes. I had the lower coolant hose swell up real bad. It doesn't have a thermostat either. I do have a aftermarket temp gauge and it was around 180 when the hose started to swell.
The truck is really cool. Those are Toyota wheels. The cool part is the driver seat is power and it works. Overall she starts right away with no issue.
Put a thermostat in it and replace the lower radiator hose.
Thermostat's slow coolant to allow heat to sink away from the block and allow hot coolant to lose the heat in the radiator. Fast moving coolant in a system without a thermostat will not cool off an engine properly.
A swelling hose is lowering the pressure in the system which will lower the BP of the liquid you're using for coolant (water, coolant, mt dew etc. they all transfer heat pretty much the same).
Are you getting good flow through your radiator?
I've had nothing but good luck with blue devil. Never had to open an engine I ran it in. Always followed the instructions to the t. I was honestly curious. I had a buddy who used it in a small block once; when he took the engine out to upgrade he had to pry the heads off with a crowbar. After all blue devil is just heat activated glue.
I pulled the thermostat housing and there was a cork plugged into the thermostat hole. Pulled that out and installed a new thermostat. I was able to turn it on and it idled with no overheating issue. Stayed at the 180 mark.
Car does not have heat, heater core has been bypassed, bit has cold AC.
I am currently waiting on a replacement lower hose, having to use one of those flex ones until I can order a new rad, since they used a radiator with 1 1/4" connections instead of 1 1/2"
I tried the blue devil but also blew a hose due to a spliced connection.
I ditched the fusible links in favor of an FC fuse block, but I re-did mine with the Walmart ground straps. I got a 12" one for the positive cable and it bolted right into the FC fuse block. The ground strap is more intuitive. Walmart sells a 4' cable as well; use that one to ground the engine. Gotta strip out a section to get the part that touches the body.
1980 RX-7 would also like to replace fusible links with fuse box- found exact replacement of the 60 amp as narva 53660 BL- (they also have the drop ins for 30 amps) but it appears they only sell in Australia and New Zealand - would like to learn how to follow your purchase. thanks.
Thermostat and hose changed. It stopped the overheating. Was driving great until It felt like it was running one one rotor. Take off the spark plugs and rear housing plugs were fouled and wet.
At this point, in going to pull the motor and get her rebuilt, get a new radiator, and clean up some of the wiring.
1980 RX-7 would also like to replace fusible links with fuse box- found exact replacement of the 60 amp as narva 53660 BL- (they also have the drop ins for 30 amps) but it appears they only sell in Australia and New Zealand - would like to learn how to follow your purchase. thanks.
I think at that time I was trying to stay in the Mazda family, but now I'd just advise going to the junkyard and pulling any old fuse block with proper sized fuses for what you want. Then just make a bracket to hold that fuse block to your car. (Zip ties are considered "brackets" right??? LOL}
1980 RX-7 would also like to replace fusible links with fuse box- found exact replacement of the 60 amp as narva 53660 BL- (they also have the drop ins for 30 amps) but it appears they only sell in Australia and New Zealand - would like to learn how to follow your purchase. thanks.
i posted a link in ur other thread of the type fuses i'm using. can get them at any auto parts dealer.
04-18-22, 09:59 AM
