Thanks, Tim! I'm not sure if it will make it next year or not. There are a few issues I need to fix before I would drive it that far. The OMP is leaking, and there are some electrical issues. The first time I drove it at night, the lights shut off for a split second mid corner. That was exciting!

 

Looks like a clean car. tg i don't discriminate different colors of SEs,they're all good!

 

OMP can be cleaned and resealed in less than an hour. Did mine 3 yrs ago,originally thought oil pan seeping. Turned out to be OMP seeping,running down front cover and onto oil pan. Reseal kit cost about $25.
Headlight fuse link/connection and contacts in combo switch checked in that order likely find the issue.

 

I'm going to get the OMP rebuild kit, and I'm going to replace the lines while I'm in there.
The combination switch is the issue. I can wiggle the stalk and see the lights flicker. I'm going to clean the contacts and add relays to the system.

 

 

Paul! How's it going? Did y'all survive the hurricane?

Its an 85 with 160k miles and grey cloth interior. I don't know how many owners it has had, but I got it from Ben, who is one of the local guys. No mods yet. I'm planning on a full RB exhaust, adding relays, and probably a set of 15's for summer tires. It needs paint, and I am thinking about wrapping it for now until I can give it the paint job it deserves.

We drove it to Jasper yesterday for lunch with Erin's family. When we left the restaurant, it wouldn't start and we had to tow it home. I need to figure that out before I can get pictures that aren't in my messy basement. For some reason, rotary cars have to test me to make sure I am worthy before they act right...

 

 

 

Its not flooded, its an electrical issue. When the key is in off or acc it has power (door bongs, clock is on) but in on or start there is no power. I checked fuses and didn't see anything blown. I'm researching more this week on possible issues.

 

 

I think I can help you with the locks and keys Kevin, let me check the parts shed and get back to you.

It will take me some time to match up the keys and run down a full set of locks, but I'm sure there's a complete set out there somewhere.

I'll also be seeing my dentist this week so I'll get his contact information so you can check out his Cutlasses.

Don't get you hopes up though, after seeing this guys work on his Gran Torino my guess is the Cutlasses are potential show cars worth some serious change.

Tommy, I have a spare combination switch if you need it, just let me know. I'm pretty sure they are the same on the SE as the 84/85 GSL.

Tim, no SA parts but I have the equivalent plug wire holder from an FB you can have (see below). If you can use it pm me a mailing address and I'll get it in the mail.

 

Thanks, Ray! I'm going to try cleaning the contacts first, but if that doesn't work I'll let you know.

 

 

 

Kevin I had a chance to dig through the parts shed for an FB key set and came up with something promising, which I'll post here to share the information with other OGTA's and maybe learn some new stuff from folks with experience with these locks.

I couldn't find a complete set keyed by a single key, but I do have an ignition lock assembly with one key and the door and hatch locks keyed with a second key, so if you don't mind having two keys this could work. I checked with the Rotary Gods, they don't mind.

The only concerns I have is that these are from S3 84/85 GSL models and yours is an S2 81 model. I have a couple S2 '83's in the yard and as far as I can tell the locks and ignition set are the same, but you should confirm this before swapping the ignition set in, that's a big job you want to be sure will work. I'd mostly be concerned about the wiring to the ignition set.

Also the door locks that fit the key don't have the plastic lock down tabs on them, but I have a second set of keyless door locks that can be used for as donors for the lock down tabs. If you still have the door locks in your FB you should be able to use the lock down tabs from those, they simply clamp onto the lock, but if needed I can send the keyless door locks with the tabs to use as donors.

If anybody knows the compatibility of the S2 and S3 door and hatch locks and most importantly the ignition lock set please let us know!

Here' a picture of what I've got, the sets with the keys in them are what you'd need, the other pair of door locks are the ones with the plastic tabs but no key.

 

Ray, thanks for the offer. I have a friend who owns a 3-D printer, so I'm going to drill out my good one from the rivet to see if he can print me up a few. I'll keep you all updated if we're successful.

 

Ray, the key sets have difference part numbers for each series.

SA - series 1 - 8871-90-010
FB - series 2 - FA01-90-010B
FB - series 3 - FA54-90-010C with color codes of 10 = red, 65 - off black, 78 - brown.

So maybe some changes. Looks like maybe just colors?

 

 

Thanks Tim for the switch information, very helpful.

I took a closer look at my available S3 combo unit by comparing it directly with the S2 unit in my 83 GSL FB, which should be the same as Kevin's '81 S2 FB.

Both units have five female connectors, all white on the S2 unit, two white, two brown and one black on the S3 unit.

All the black and brown and one of the white connectors on the S3 unit have exactly the same plug patterns and wiring color codes as the S2 unit, so these should be no problem.

The remaining white connector on the S3 unit (which I've marked with blue tape) has the same female connector as on the S2 unit, except it is missing two prongs (out of four possible locations) that are present on the S2 unit.

These two prongs on the S2 unit are connected together by a jumper, and to nothing else, so it should be a simple matter of these swapping female connectors or adding a jumper to the S3 unit to get it to work. So you should be good to go Kevin.

With the OGTA discount, that'll be $1.00 to cover shipping, please post us some pics of your new FB here on the OGTA thread.

And pm me your most recent mailing address, it's hard to keep up with you Rolling Stones.

Thanks!

 

 

Anybody going to the OGTA meeting on Tuesday?

 

Sounds like it could be something simple like a bad battery or the battery contacts need to be cleaned. I've had that happen before, car won't start then I clean the connections and all good to go.

 

It ended up being the battery terminals, where the wires connect. They looked fine, but the multimeter found the issue. I had 12v at the battery terminals, 8.5v at the wires, and when I switched the key on it dropped to 1v at the wires. Cleaned them up and it is working fine now.

 

Anybody in the Chattanooga area?

FB enthusiast from way back. I can't make it down to the club meet (family situation) but would LOVE to have lunch with someone local who drives an FB. I need a 12A "fix", otherwise I might end up buying one (I've owned 3 but am currently FB-less). Help!

 

MAZDA bringing back the rotary!

https://www.mazda-press.com/eu/news/...nge-extender-/

As an extender <sigh>