always good to hear when things go right. except for when the alt is bad, i've pulled cables off batteries on several different cars and they continue to run. and i put a cap on the return line just to keep anything from getting in it. like those bees that make nests from mud. never know when u might need to use it again.

ray, is that overspray i see on the front bumper molding or wax u forgot to clean off?

 

Let's see some pics of that FC with the Orto Dave! Sounds like another interesting project.

Michael that white spot is from the black paint being scraped from the bumper molding, one of these days I need to put some paint on there, along with the windshield trim.

You did notice the perfectly functioning OCD on the Silver One, right?

 

sure did. but i guess it would drive u crazy if they weren't, huh. i bet if u broke the rear wheels loose just one time they would never be perfectly lined up ever again. unless of course u jack the car up to fix that.

 

Hardy-har-har Michael, that's a good one.

And you are right, I would never break the rears loose on my FB out of fear of damaging my precious OCD. But then that's why I'm one of the last FB owners (if not the last) with a functioning OCD.

 

Rough idle is being caused by the lack of rear rotor help in engine combustion.Compression numbers match the front dead on so that is ruled out in my mind ( they are low on a conventional tester, but have been the same for years.) Heading back out after the start of the race to check if it is lack of fuel causing my issue since with it not running I would expect the plugs to be wet and they are not.

Fixed the no stop issue. Just tapped the wrong power wire.

I don't think the dizzy cares which rotor is on TDC when it is timed does it?

 

Found a massive intake leak at the carb/manifold joint. Gasket was shaved down by previous razor blades. Layered on some RTV and am now waiting for it to set up for a bit. Fingers crossed. Pics will come soon Ray.

 

Bring 'em on Dave, love to see the pics. Got videos?

I don't think the dizzy cares which rotor it's sparking, something about wasted spark or something like that.

 

What you guys think about these. Are they 5.5", 6" or 6 1/2". Do you think they would look good on my 83 matic.

 

Those are SA waffles son. The best RX7 wheels made. Only 12.5 lbs, 13" diameter and 5.5" wide.

The best tire for it is a 205/60R13 with RWL. Those are hard to find so you may opt for some
Sumitomo black walls. If you go with the stock size (185/70R13) you may find more selection for
tires.

Not sure how well they will look with an FB, but its bound to be better than whats on there now

 

Tim, please notice that I am restraining myself and not posting the picture famous White One at Road Atlanta photo to remind all of the beauty of the X wheel

(this after a lecture from Holly that I post too many pictures).

That being said, I agree with Tim, almost. Those waffle wheels would look great on the 83 matic!

Almost as good as a nice set of X wheels!

Hey dudes, don't forget, tomorrow is OGTA night

 

Yeah, it does care. The Front Leading fires at TDC, the Rear Leading at BDC. Both Trailing fire at both TDC and BDC (this is your wasted spark) The dizzy turns at half the speed of the engine, so if you pull the cap and it looks 180 out, you can turn the engine once, and the distributor will come up the way it should. 180 out is no problem.

You'll want to verify TDC is correct on your front pulley, though, as they CAN be installed wrong (Mazda didn't think about clocking the bolt pattern until the S4) and that the paint mark passes the peg when the front rotor is at TDC (or thereabouts)

 

Does anybody have one of those black plastic nose vent pieces that goes underneath the front of the car that they want to sell or trade?

I have the Silver One up on ramps repairing the damage the neutral ground out on I85 did to the underside of the car and I discovered that along with taking out the lower plastic trim piece (which I have, courtesy of the Brown One) the grass ripped out the mounts to the plastic grill.

Thanks!

 

Holly, its looking like I can make it on the 4th of march same place right?
I will be in the RX-8 unless something comes up.

 

Thanks. here is what I know, The pulley has not been removed in a looong time( was running well before FI system crapped out) So that is all good I believe, and it is a s5 engine.

Is it then even possible for me to have it timed in such a way for it to run the front rotor and not the rear at all? What is the dizzy rotor supposed to look like when timed correctly( positioning, the rotor button I put on it has an arrow?) Is it possible to put a cap on backwards?

How does one go about verifying TDC front? All threads I find in searching question all ways other than a degree wheel etc.?

Sorry for being dizzy dumb.

Thanks Crit

 

well after much work, soneone decides to be a jack *** ans steal all three of my radiators, my full exaust, jakes radiator, my battery, and some other misc parts that I needed to finnish the ol gal. the worst part is that fuel's done, oil system done, and ignition is almost done. But I cant drive it with no radiator. So........... I guess the project is on hold

 

Ouch, thats sucks


I will be at the OGTA meet tomorrow

Should be a nice day!!!

O and here are some teaser pictures of the "New FB"

 

Pull the inspection plate and look at the flywheel. The "cutout" section should be on the passenger side if I remember correctly. Should be at the 9 oclock position basically looking at the engine from the front.

That's a pretty **** poor explanation, but it'll become fairly obvious. Mine ran pretty good being 90 degrees out.


And looks like I won't be able to make it again tomorrow . And softball is going to start again soon........

 

well..........my vert decided to loan me his radiator. He already let my 71 chevy truck borrow it, so he figured that why not another rotary inspired. He figured why kill progress when he's taking his long slumber. pics shall come later on today

 

Sounds great Andre, let the vert take a break for awhile. Looking forward to the pics. Sorry to hear about that theft, what sleaze *****.

Alex is that a race car you've got going there?

Tim, you will be missed, again. I wish we were meeting in a better spot for you.

OK all you FB's, time to show your muscle and kick some FC *** tonight. We need numbers!

The Silver One looks particularly mean without her front teeth.

 

do you guys allow no front bumpers at the meets im currently in between bumpers and work until 530 so if i swung by the meet i prly wont have one lol

 

I'm going without a grill or underskirt, maybe we can start a trend.

 

Dave, not sure if this applies to S5 engine. Crit let us know. But the FSM has write up on how to set the distributor to TDC for S3 engines.

On S3's there is a dimple on the distributor gear that needs to be lined up with L1 (I think) when the timing mark on the front pulley is aligned with the timing peg. None of this may apply to an S5, but I thought I would throgh it out there.

 

This should be an interesting OGTA. The silver one is going commando to the meet.

 

That's great MC, can't wait to see the RX-8. If anything changes on location, I will phone you on Friday. I will talk to Billy tonight to see who is coming into town. Have a fun drive down to ATL.

Holly

 

Yeah, you're pretty close there. There's a dimple and there's a roll pin in the drive gear of the dizzy. Make sure to line up the dimple on the drive gear with the dimple on the shaft that supports it. With the engine at TDC, stab the dizzy. You'll want to hold the base with your middle, ring and pinky fingers of each hand. Hold the rotor with your thumbs such that it doesn't move as it bumps its way into the front cover. Once you've placed it in and you're colliding with the drive gear, look at the timing slot that lines up with the top of the dizzy boss (the slot with one screw through it that's used to set timing). Make sure you're centered in the slot, and slightly wiggle the dizzy against the drive gear until it drops into place.

Once you've got it in, you can check the dizzy cap to verify that you're not 1 tooth off - just remember that the spark comes in at 12-oclock and leaves at 3. The leading is fed by one of the arms up top. The trailing is fed through the carbon button in the middle of the dizzy and down through the center of the rotor. You should have one top pickup lined up with the L input, and the other should be lined up with the L1 output.

To verify TDC, Tim's right that you can remove the side or top inspection plate at the tranny. At TDC, the front rotor is full-left. The rear rotor is full-right. The rear counterweight, therefore, is full-left as well, which means that the relief in the flywheel, which creates the counterweight, is full-right. You should be able to see the flats of the flywheel where mass is removed on the right side to create the imbalance. Knowing where the flywheel is and checking that the relief is square to the rear iron is key.