Where do you find this stuff Greg?

 

Hey Ted, check this out. A little pricey but they are complete with the calipers and he says they are in excellent condition and fully functional.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...SS%3AUS%3A1123



Anybody here know this Andy guy? I'd love to see his 7 show up at a meet.

 

That's hilarious

 

Thanks Ray, I think I will have to hold out on those. Check your PM when you get a minute.

 

Almost time for another oil change. Thinking I might try to tackle timing belt finally.

 

I wonder if this is the guy I met that worked at Autozone in Loganville?

-billy

 

WTF is with replacing the rear hatch shocks????

I ordered a new set and was going to put them in last night. It looked like a 10 minute project.
WRONG!!! It was rapidly headed for epic fail.

What size wrench do you need to remove the ball mounted to the window frame? 11mm is too small, 7/16 is too small, but 12mm is too big so I started rounding off the points.

How the heck do I get the old ones off?

Thanks for any help.

 

Hey Greg, Hint: PB Blaster. The original stock ball mounts fit a 12 mm wrench. However the aftermarket replacements can be different, for example the replacement I have on the driver's side of the Silver One fits an 11 mm wrench.

And of course there's always the possibility that someone has replaced the original strut with an American unit (kind of like Tim does with his electronics - Ford and Chevy stuff) in which case anything is possible.

Good luck!

Chris I did the timing belt on my Mazda MP5 recently, similar engine to yours, I believe. Mazda does things a little differently than on other Japanese engines, especially the pretensioning. Be sure to follow the FSM exactly even though it might not make the most sense (I didn't, had to replace the tensioner pulley - $90).

 

When in doubt use a cresent wrench. When F'ed up use a vise grip.

 

I always go ahead and replace the tensioner while I am at it. It is pricey, but when you consider all the time you invest to get to that point, especially on a wrong wheel drive car, it is not worht it to use the old tensioner.

 

Agreed Mike, I didn't hesitate to buy the tensioner kit, even though the only real problem was the tensioner spring, which I overstressed while applying my intuitive method for setting the tension.

But the spring wasn't available separately and like you say, once you are that deep into the engine (especially on a wrong wheel drive car that requires you remove the right front tire and a bunch of shielding to access the belt) what's another $90?

 

That's what beginners use.. the professional seasoned tech ,.. why we just jump straight to the cutting torch. F all the other BS!

 

And the church said, Amen...

 

Whenever I changed the timing belt on Jim's (the guy with the red vert that has the back smashed in) Eclipse, the tensioner worked 2 different ways. You tensioned and tightened it with an off-center bolt, and then there was a small piston-like thing that pushed on the tensioner after that. I guess that piston thing would be like the spring you guys are talking about?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lemEA...layer_embedded

 

I washed my car today and cleaned up the interior pretty good. Even swapped on a nice S5 steering wheel. I'm going to try to wax it for real soon. I've never owned a car with good enough paint for wax

Check out what I figured out recently:

 

Online banking? You are a couple years behind my friend

 

Brett, your mother, really ??? I bet SunTrust never envisioned that on their website.

 

Heres a little video of a ride around my neigborhood using my $10.00 video camera.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14772589@N03/5100476809/

I got it off ebay, its a key chain spy camera.



link

Ray, maybe they used this to make t he slot car video.

 

That's a pretty Spiffy neighborhood you live in there Tim!

You got a link for that camera? I need one to keep track of my students during exams. Fight technology with technology.

Never mind Tim, I just discovered your covertly located link at the bottom of your post. My mini-spy cam has been ordered and is on its way.

 

Hey guys, been awhile since I have been on here, checking in to see how your doing.
Got a little project I am wanting to working on, making a new wire harness for my '85. Been having problems with 1 wire here and there, so I am going to eliminate it! 25 years of high heat they are just becoming brittle at the connectors.
Been reading up on the FSM and found a thread on here on what to do, based on mods, but little alterations here and there:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=electrical
Using new connectors, I want to completely rebuild a new harness.
Connectors found here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
So what I am asking for is does someone have a spare harness lying around for a NON GSL-SE? Something to lay down and copy, with out yanking mine out and losing the ability to drive it around.
If you do, and are interested, You will get it in return, ALONG WITH... a new one built to how you need it, stock or modded if desired.

Just something to clean up the engine bay, get rid of wires I don't need, and to just generally make it look better. Let me know what you guys think and if you can help.
been thinking about for a while, but saw this:
https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-classifieds-276/new-fd-engine-wire-harnesses-mil-spec-wire-926391/
and it was inspiring, and what I am going for
Thanks in advance!

 

Ray, be careful, even with tenure you can only get away with so much.

I think there will be a lot of nervous coeds now that you have a spy camera

 

Not to mention the guys at the OGTA meetings.

Ian, you're just talking the engine harness right? Not the chassis stuff.

 

Yes, from the connector through the engine bay. Depending on how that works out, will then try for the internal wiring.

 

Something like this, except with new connectors and removing the pin and wires from the main harness connector. And I want to use heat shrink rather than the corrugated plastic pipe lol.




and the new carb but i think the wiring came out nice. its much neater under the hood. the next time i get not lazy ill de-pin the cut wires in the ECU.


eviljay these last two are for you. two black and white wires go to the connection at the alternator



these connect to the top and bottom, farthest RIGHT ECU connections. the farthest LEFT in this picture