So for the past half hour I've been looking all over the OGTA thread trying to find a picture of Donnie's engine with the strut mount and everything to show a guy interested in buying mine that it works with the RB air breather and everything. It brought back a tonnnnn of memories... And reminded me that:

1- We need a mountain run soon
2- We need to recruit more young FC kids

Ah, night

 

Who can tell what I've been doing this morning...?








Took like ten minutes max, including installation is the reverse of removal.

 

I tried last night to reset the mileage of the S5 cluster to match the actual mileage of the car (The S4 cluster's odometer reading), but I didn't have anything small or sturdy enough to pop off the c-lip that allows you to reposition the numbers.

A good thing is, things like the tach and speedometer seem to operate more smoothly than the S4 cluster. -Inhales deeply- Ah, has that new shitty gauge smell!

 

Collin, don't break it.

 

Don't break what?

 

I do believe my alternator may be dying. When I try to start the car, if it's not warm, the engine doesn't turn, but it sounds like the fan and things run. But after a while, the engine will finally turn over, and run just fine. It's strange.

Am I correct in my assumption that it's the alternator? Maybe that was the root of my fuel pump problems...

Maybe I should've checked that first. Oh well, I like the fuel pump set up now anyways.

Quad

 

Ahhh, yes, the ReSpeed mule. A number of fine ReSpeed parts on that car. Now that I think about it, some of those parts are starting to show up on my car.

 

Mike, you and Ray need to get your filthy minds out of the gutter.
I simply dropped my keys and she is helping me find them.

 

Kevin, make sure your battery is good, put a charger on it and make sure it holds charge. If it does it may jist be the ground wire to the battery. Does it jump start? Alternators don't usually go bad, but if so a battery charger will get you going until you can pick one up (just don't drive at night).

Jeez Greg, I was thinking something else entirely. So is that your daughter or your wife? Or maybe just a lady friend from church?

I'll bring the FSM to the Dec. OGTA if it arrives in time.

 

Greg, I knew there was a good explanation for the avatar. The problem is Ray and I have a hard time seeing those little pictures. I'm sure all the young guys knew right a way that she was looking for your keys.

 

Crit - did you get the chunk out? It went in fine when it was installed so its gotta come out!

-roland

 

I've got a battery charger, and the battery shouldn't be bad, it's the optima out of the red car.

Quad

 

What do you mean if it's not warm? Do you mean ambient temperature or engine temperature?

From your vague description...

- Ignition
- Starter
- Possibly a bad battery
- Main/Starter ground

If it was your alternator being bad, it wouldn't charge the battery hardly at all and the engine wouldn't run properly after a short time once the battery was drained of it's charged.

 

By warm, I mean at engine temperature. I haven't been able to really check warm ambient recently. It's been better recently, not too sure what's changed.

I really don't know how to be more descriptive. I try to turn the car over, and everything will spin up except the engine. If I hold the key in start for a while, then cut it off totally, then try to start it again, I get a blip of the engine, then it goes back. Then usually it'll start on the next attempt to start it. Recently it's been just fine, and I haven't really changed my driving habits, so we'll see if it keeps doing it.

Quad

 

Nope. It's crazy/rediculous/retardedly easy, but the chunk won't come out. I double checked everything today, spent another hour on it, and no joy. It's like the ring gear is too big to fit back through the flange. I feel like a retard.

 

My FB did that exact same thing when I had the + battery terminal rigged with some phone line wire and zip ties. Check those if you know your battery is good, and check the other grounds along the car. I know there's one going from the - terminal from the battery towards the firewall that is partially bare and is grounded to the chassis there. Good luck with it!

Going to Mableton to get a nice white hood for the Maxima before work. Good day

 

 

That's a pretty badass snail. Crit-approved.

 

A sleeper for sure.

 

So lastnight my car decided to have every problem it has ever had since the rebuild.

It:
-started to overheat, then accepted half a gallon of water
-had it's clock and dome light quit on me
-blew the leading ignighter on the highway (thanks for the advice to keep a spare crit)
-finally had the wheel bearing give up, I was driving then there was a really loud -crack- noie from the front and all the wheel bearing noise went away, made it home though, and that one wheel well was pouring smoke
-and the brake pedal randomly got really squishy last night, and needs to be pumped a few times to build pressure and a firm pedal.

 

The busted bearing caused your brake pedal to suck. A wobbly hub and rotor will push the pads back into the caliper bore more than one that runs true. Your clock and dome light are a blown fuse. The ignitor is just bad luck. Let me know if you need another.

The overheating could just be a function of you pushing the car harder as the bearing started to seize, but maybe not if it was taking on water. You may just have a loose hose somewhere. You're lucky, though. That's a lot to go wrong and still make it home okay.

 

Yeah, I was overwhelmed by bad luck haha. I ordered new wheel bearings for the bad side, and I have some old rotors that came off of Karl's car that I am going to have resurfaced, then I've got new pads for the front. The fuse I'll look for later, and I am now keeping a jug of distilled water in the car until I find the leak, because it was low before. I think Karl may have 2 spare ignighters so I'll take one of his, thanks for the offer though.

 

If you remember what Billy said, they used to just get new NAPA rotors on the race cars rather than ever servicing them. Apparently they were cheaper than dirt - may still be.

 

They're like $40 a piece and it's what I was using. But I'd rather just get reliable driving and stopping rather than omptimum race condition durability for now. So I can put more money into the clutch job, and also saving for a rebuild this summer to catch the engine before it goes since it ran with a partially functioning OMP. (Atkins rebuild + 2 Atkins rotor housings that saw 1 race season =~=$1200.

 

The heat from the bad bearing heated things up and was boiling the brake fluid is my guess. Causes wonky brake pedal feel because the fluids boiling. You might want to take that caliper abart and rebuild or get a loaded one from the parts store.