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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #7376  
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lol....forgive my ignorance
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:57 AM
  #7377  
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From: Huntsville AL
3 rotor based off of 12a parts:

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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #7378  
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so where'd u find that at?
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:36 AM
  #7379  
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Originally Posted by jeezus
3 rotor based off of 12a parts:

nice!
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #7380  
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Somebody got any ideas cause i give up with this ignition BS this whole click click click start is on my last nerve i cant figure it out. the starter, solenoid, ignition switch, its all brand new, the clutch switch is fine i bypassed it and it still clicks. im about ready to pay someone to fix it. ANY VOLNTEERs? ANYBODY WANNA MAKE SOME MONEY?
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:28 PM
  #7381  
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Originally Posted by dj_silencer200399
Somebody got any ideas cause i give up with this ignition BS this whole click click click start is on my last nerve i cant figure it out. the starter, solenoid, ignition switch, its all brand new, the clutch switch is fine i bypassed it and it still clicks. im about ready to pay someone to fix it. ANY VOLNTEERs? help!
Check the battery cables...specifically check the resistance on them. i had the whole click no start deal and replaced the positive cable on my SE and it turns over faster than ever now.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:38 PM
  #7382  
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Originally Posted by dj_silencer200399
Somebody got any ideas cause i give up with this ignition BS this whole click click click start is on my last nerve i cant figure it out. the starter, solenoid, ignition switch, its all brand new, the clutch switch is fine i bypassed it and it still clicks. im about ready to pay someone to fix it. ANY VOLNTEERs? ANYBODY WANNA MAKE SOME MONEY?
Originally Posted by workinprogress80
Check the battery cables...specifically check the resistance on them. i had the whole click no start deal and replaced the positive cable on my SE and it turns over faster than ever now.
Resistance? One other problem is that im not the best with elctrical beyond car audio thats why i was lookin for help, but that does seem like a logical explinattion i do have a lot of battery wiring.

Im close to just handing the issue off and paying to get it fixed im so frustrated with it.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #7383  
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I thought you were getting the push to start button? And The resistance of the cable is a internal resistance. Not the fact that you have more cables than a jamacin dreadlock band attached to your battery.

If the cable has a High resistance, it will not pass the needed voltage and amperage needed to trigger the starter properly. I don't feel this is your issue but it may be.

BTW: As of what I have tried so far, the A/C no workie I think the compressor may be crap. I have a schrader valve leaking on the low pressure side to fix and then more testing.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 02:19 PM
  #7384  
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well i was but i dont wanna buy that and then it still click like it did when i bypassed the clutch switch. if u think it will work i will get it and come see u after my car is done getting painted. Also from fromwhat i hear push starts make starters die a lot faster.

BTW: Im really sorry about the A/C stuff it did work when i first got the car but that was 1 1/2 years ago. so im sorry those parts on ebay r still expensive working or not.

Thx dave
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 02:27 PM
  #7385  
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Don't know about them killing starters faster. All it is , is a switch that sends power to the starter solenoid. It doesn't up the amps or anything like that. So IMO, that doesn't hold water.

As far as the a/c goes, I will figure it out. It may just need a good flushing thru still. It took most of 1 can of refrigerant before the compressor finally kicked in the clutch. So. I still hold out hope. I could use the idler pulley assembly from your car still. I can grab it whenever we see eachother next. I have one that works, just isn't the s5 version

I can help you out with the starting issue as well. Let me know when you get the car back and want to attack it. You will most likly have to leave the car here for a couple days though. I take my time with electrical as I feel it is sent straight from hell. Plus if you let the smoke out of the electrical system it won't work any more Seriously!
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #7386  
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Ok when i get the car back i'll make a trip over and u can whatever parts u need left for ur A/C, but how much will i owe u for the help? i'll bring money with me to purchase a push button start if we can't figure it out. i will admit its nice to not have push the clutch in to start the car. thanks for ur help dave.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #7387  
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The starter is how "new"? It sounds like the magnetic switch/plunger in the starter is hitting but not transfering the power thru to the starter armature. It could be a dirty contact between the armature terminal and the Mag switch. This would be why we here a big clunk( the bendix gear slinging out) but no spinning over( no transfer of power between switch and armature.)
What it will cost....1 miiiilion doolllars!! Muuaaahh!! No rally, hard to say, depends on what it take time wise. could take 5 minutes, could take 5 days. Ya never know with electrical.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #7388  
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like 3 months old, and i dont think its the starter because even after we installed the starter it still did it. one million....haha u forget im a broke college kid. i may go ahead and order a push button and we can install it first and see if it fixes the problem before we tear into all the electrical not only will that fix the problem but i cant afford to pay u to do days worth of labor.sorry good idea or no?
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 03:17 PM
  #7389  
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I wouldn't charge you for days just a couple hours max. If you want to grab the switch, we can hook it up before we mount it and see if it cures your issue It's up to you. I don't like throwing parts at things to try and fix the problem. I like to find the problem then attack the solution. The starter circuit is a very simple circuit. Not much involved in it to check or go wrong.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #7390  
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i know and i agree but i think the push button start is gonna make it a lot easier a bandaid as u said, and u can take a brief look if you want when i come by at the rest of the starting. will a 3o dollar push button off ebay work? how mch to put it in, after paying 8oo for a paint job cost is whats worryin me. so how much to install and take a look?

this one ok?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PUSH-...4506.m20.l1116

or do u know where to get one locally?
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #7391  
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Got the FB enginebay started to be sanded. I took the drivers side frame rail down to metal to remove all the rust from a leaky m/c. Attacked other spots where the paint was peeling and rusty. Spot primed everything with rattle primer. Found a crack in the rad support crossbar and welded that up. Maybe doing more sanding tonight as it cools down a bit more. It is getting there slowly.

I still haven't fixed the leaky radiator yet though!! Priceless since this started it all
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #7392  
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Now here's a nice swap

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVaXk...eature=related
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #7393  
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Here is a nice one as well. Some day...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y46HXuef1gg
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:38 PM
  #7394  
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Here is a nice one to LOL http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...Blown_4136.htm And My t2 swaped FB Runs GREAT!!!!! Driving it down to Sam's tomarrow
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:38 AM
  #7395  
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From: sc
what about the relay?
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #7396  
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From: sc
oh and how much for the 3 rotor 12a?
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:43 AM
  #7397  
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and last....how can you know about car audio without resistance?
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #7398  
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and last...how can you know about car audio without knowing how to test resistance?
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #7399  
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Originally Posted by ncfc3s
what about the relay?
What about it? More specific please.
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 12:07 PM
  #7400  
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Talk about bad luck!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E58yGS_fmVU
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