Yea rattle can = Spotty primer . But hey work with what you got . Lookin good homes .......

 

Btw, if any of you guys need a set of 4x114.3 wheels (or whatever the stock gsl-se bolt pattern is) Im sure josh would be willing to sell (cheaply) the set of celica wheels sitting around, be good for putting race tread on, since the only tire size I could find to fit it is a "musclecar/truck" category tire and literally only one manufacturer has em from what I could tell.

 

I dunno about spotty, after two good coats and a wetsand it looks pretty good, though I still have to go back over a couple spots, but thats for later today.

 

oh yeah ive been meaning to ask, but does Joey need any marker lights/turn signals for the fc?

 

Eh, if I'm gonna go through the trouble and few hundred dollars worth of quality paint, I'm gonna disassemble it as much as possible. I've found it's waaay better to paint doors and fenders off the car, because you can lay them out flat and all but eliminate the chance of runs. That allows you to lay the paint wetter, and you'll end up with less orange peel. Also, this is a really bad time of year to paint outside of a booth because of the humidity.

Everything I've done on the Cheeto and now a lot of the TII has been Duplicolor or Krylon spray paint. It can come out really good if you do the same prep and finishing as you would with normal paint, and you start from the bottom up. The problem with aerosol is that it's really weak! Just get some bird crap on it and see what I mean. After only an hour of exposure to rattle clearcoat, you pretty much have to polish out the damage that's left over after you wash it off. And I've found that with a good polish, I can polish straight through several layers of clear all the way to the basecoat using only my hand and a rag. Not very abrasion resistant! I'm guessing the UV resistance is probably about the same, so expect some sun fading, peeling, and cracking within 1 to 2 years.

Does anyone else find it funny that we're having a technical conversation on how to spray paint a car? Viva los rat rods!!!

And yeah Derrick, the front lip is hopefully gonna happen for the TII this year, even if I have to hand-lay one myself. As for the signals, I might Nightshade them but I'm not really picky, I think they look good as they are. What the TII really needs is some wider bronze wheels and new rubber to fit on them! That and springs.

 

Yeah, eventually the NA will see some professional semi-flat, but id prefer not to have a glossy sheen...makes ppl jealous.

And I agree with the needs of your T2, some nice wide wheels/rubber and a good S5 T2 lip from shine would be great, but I was meaning the cheeto >.>

And is it just me....but lately these shitty banner ad's between the last post and the quick reply box are becoming annoying and fairly useless? Like right now I see an ad for Timesert.com...for thread repair kits lol, and when were were discussing paint it brought up an ad for mazda paint repair thingy's....i forget what they be called atm...

 

Pfft... Derrick, sometimes your logic escapes me.

Oh... nah, Cheeto needs nothing cosmetically right now. I'd like to see it with a spoiler and a lightbar on the front one day. That one needs some wider wheels as well.

I don't get any ads on RX7club or any site really, I'm using Firefox with Adblock Plus. Awesome little plugin, I don't even realize how much advertising I'm missing from my internet anymore.

 

yeah, but just thinkat what i save by not needing to wax and such, and if I smash a cone or scrape on a driveway I wont worry as much.

Find some nice older meshies for the cheeto, im sure they be out there, or hell some nice panasports/watanabe

 

well guys last night i blew a coolent seal and started over heating i pulled over and got some water in the rad and managed to limp it home with out any damage.

but oh well i have a new set of bp irons to swap in and hopefully a carb setup from jeremy. and my oil pan has a small leak so this will be a good thing to fix everything that i wasnt happy with and get some more power hopefully.

although im not sure how my bottom end is gonna be with bp irons and a 4port motor even with high comp rotors. this will also make it alot easier to swap the manual rack in aswell.

 

Where's the Q at a.......

 

bleh my intermittent high/bouncy idle issue returned last night, tps checks out normal and within spec's, even swapped it with a 'better' one that specs even better. Seems I might have to finally pull the BAC valve off and put in the block off plate...

 

q at a.........

 

anyone know what the bottom end is gonna be like on a carbed s5 t2 with a half bridgeport with high comp s5 n/a rotors i think they are like 9:7 ratio? and no turbo

 

que it up a......

 

Personally I dont think its going to breath all too well, but then again I really cant tell ya what a carbed S5 with turbo irons is gonna be like, but a halfbridge is going to be LOUD and obnoxious and its not going to idle happily, and really they should have been full bridged....you get all the problems of the full bridge with only half the gains...

 

naw these irons were professionally done and port matched by a top builder in pr it will help me get more power across the bored. and it will breath fine with the massive carb im running. and i love the sound nothing like it especially a carbed bp

 

i have just learned from my experience that a 6port with out the sleeves working and wired opne is pretty muhc gutless and weak in my opinion . and that is basically what this motor is gonna be becasue its a 4 port n/a and then its a bp so that means its gonna have even less bottom end. so im not sure if im gonna be ahppy with it. but i will find out i guess. i would throw a s5 turbo and mani on it but it would spool even at idle becasue of the free flowing bp ports

 

Mmmmmm feels good to be back in my own bed for once....and yet so odd to be so far away from all my tools....too bad ive still got an entire garage full lol

 

Holy hell Carmen, you blew the motor already? Sheeeit. This thread is a mess... someone clean it up and find out what the hell Louis wants. I'm tired dammit and I almost got eaten by goddamn bears.

 

i just realized something >.> you wouldnt have popped a coolant seal if you had run a thermostat....unless of course you pinched/ripped teh seals during assembly of the block...

And lol jimi, bears wouldnt eat you....you dotn have any meat on the bones worth picking over. and Louie.....hes still trippin from all that jose he drank

 

Man.... I had so much food on me... beef jerky, protein bars, and an open bag of combos in my cargo pocket. I was food Derrick. Food.

 

9.7:1.

 

no i popped a coolent seal because i used a messed up front iron that had a nick out of the water passage. and how would a thermostat have not caused a seal to pop?
all a thermostat does is open at a specific temp when a cooletn seal goes u get massive exhaust gasses in the coolent which makes it even hotter so a thermostat would have done anything.

but its not biggy i was rebuilding it anywas it dosent really bother me.

WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY WE CAN REBUILD HIM..FASTER..STRONGER.......

 

yes but a thermostat is there for a reason. Its to keep coolant in the block to do its job. If you have coolant flowing in and out constantly its not there to soak up the heat and do its designed task, which is how the block itself heats up faster even though the coolant may appear to be cooler.

 

damn this weather! i wanted to start tearing down that mani so i could get ready to put the motor in. dunno how much ill get done in the shape im in now anyway...dammit. hey so i got a question t2 na flywheels different? counterweights? and on the front of the flywheel on the motor(toward the tranny) there are two placed where it looks like something bolts in close to the teeth are there smaller weights on t2 or something??