Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

im rebuilding my 13brew and both of the stationary gear bearings are completly shot. my question is this...

1. should i just replace the bearings or get new stationary gears as well?

2. should i go with a race bearing because im upgrading to a A-spec single 500r?

Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

bump

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

do it once, do it right.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

If your gears are in good shape you don't have to replace them, but if you have the $$$ to do it then I would replace them. Race bearings, once again don't have to but it definatly wouldn't hurt anything to go with the race bearings.

Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

bump

GTRay

CHECK THE RACES!!!!

If you've experienced damage to the bearings then you MUST, beyond question, check the stationary gears for ANY irregularities. We almost built a self destructive motor once when we didn't make the correlation between the damamged bearing and a possibly dammaged stationary gear bearing race. It turned out that the gear had developed some deflection that we didn't detect when we installed the new bearing. Luckily we caught the problem on our pre-assembly inspection. We would always make it a point to place the e-shaft in an installed and torqued stationary gear. This time it paid off. we caught the culprite gear and made sure to replace it before the motor went together.

As far as the bearings go... The race bearings are great for high rpm use but i question their usefulness in the lower rpm high HP applications. The bearings just have larger oil journals for slighlty higher oil flow and a slightly larger cushion of oil for the e-shaft to ride on.

Ray

Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

both the front and rear stationard gears are ruined on my engine and worn through to the copper, but only on one side of the bearing. whats up with that????

Kim

Sounds like you have over-rev'd your motor a few times.
The shaft will flex and wear one side of the bearing more than the other.

Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

by overreving and wearing out the bearing do i now need to replace the stationary gears??

GTRay

we had the same problem on the motor i referenced before.

how old was the motor?
mileage?
age?

other mods?

did you have the oil bypass pellet mod in the e-shaft?

how high did you reve the motor?

do you have a pulley kit?

do you have a lightweight flywheel?
if yes do you have the appropriate counterweights?

any info you can provide will help.

Ray

Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

it was a reman form mazda that i know very little on age or mileage.

1. no oil pellet (why would this matter?)
2. un-known on the revving?
3. yes there was a pulley kit on it
4. SR motorsports 9.5lb flywheel
5. counterweight supplied with the flywheel

GTRay

1. just covering my bases - could have been an oil starvation issue
2. couldn't have been TOO high then
3. how tight was the tension on the belt? we had to run our belt tension at the point JUST where the belts stopped squeeking on our motors with pulley kits.
4-5. good.

it sounds to me like it might be a belt tension issue.

in regards to the wear spots on the bearings - where were the worn out spots? 12 o'clock? 6 o'clock?

something is putting pressure on one end of the e-shaft causing it to exert force on the stationary gear bearings. i'm thinking its the belt tension acting on the front pulley.

Ray

GTRay

if this is the case i would FULLY inspect all of your gears, bearings, and the e-shaft for any deflection, twist, or other possible warping. take the time to check all of these parts now before you build a grenade.

ray

Komodo1982

iTrader: (4)

how do i check these assemblies for deflection befor installing. i can clearance them properly is that what you mean???

GTRay

if you have a runout gauge you might be able to build a rig to check the eshaft but i would just reccomend sending the parts to a reputable builder in your area. DIY assembly works great but unless you have the measuring equipment to really check out the parts it's best to get a pro to scope them out.

Ray