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Rev Limit

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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 09:13 AM
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From: Norcross
Rev Limit

I was wondering whats the safest way to find the natural rev limit of my s5 t2. And where would be the best place to set the rev limiter(IN MY HALTECH) in relation to that?

Or should I go off maximum hp?
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 11:31 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
well since the S5 NA was limited to 8250rpm, that would probably be a good place for you too.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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From: Norcross
Its a turbo. And I want to find the limit not just place a limit. All engines are a little different.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:05 PM
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Get a tune and Dyno runs. When the power starts to drop off, set limiter.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 05:32 PM
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Shift according to powerband.
Don't set a rev limiter. You'll do more damage hitting the rev limiter under load than you will slightly over revving it.
Your internals and counterweight are good to around 8200, same as the stock iron seals. I'd try to keep it under that.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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From: Norcross
I drift in my car so a rev limiter is necessary. Im pretty sure the rev limiter wont hurt the engine unless Im on it for a long time. Especially with ignition cut.

Right now its set at 7300.
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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Rev limiters hurt rotaries.

If your oil pressure is good then you can safely take it to... hmm. My car has stock internals with just a little clearancing and a bump in oil pressure to 85-90psi and I hang it off of 9500, and I've pinned the 10k tach on a mis-shift before. 2mm seal engines are much more rev friendly than the old stuff.

With a turbo I'd REALLY be worried about the effects of a rev limiter on the engine's effective VE. If the rotor face comes around twice before firing, it will have fewer exhaust residuals than if it didn't, so you might detonate. This in addition to the natural bad effects of a rev limiter to begin with.

If it were mine, I'd find where the engine stops making power, then retard timing REALLY far after that point. This actually is my plan after I upgrade my injectors, since right now my "rev limiter" is the fact that the injectors are wide open so the engine runs so lean that it can't make any power.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 02:32 AM
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From: Norcross
Thanks for the info. Ill definetly take heed to that. But a couple of things i think you assumed/ im not sure about.

My motor has not been rebuilt. Its a jspec with 70k orginal miles. I dont have any oil mods to increase pressure. Also Im not sure what VE stands for.

How far should I be retarding my timing? And in what incrementation? Would you mind showing me your timing map?
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 03:25 PM
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I have a distributor, no timing map.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:59 AM
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From: Norcross
Originally Posted by peejay
I have a distributor, no timing map.
OK

What about the other issues I stated?
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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Hi, I have a question, the other day I was in my 88 fc3 turbo2 and I was in 3rd gear at about 6800-7000rpms at 12psi, and somethin happened, I have like no power at all, it barely idles and very hard to crank up, blows smoke out the tailpipe followed by a flame, it ran perfect before this happened, can someone please help me??
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:26 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by 1NSIGHT
T
My motor has not been rebuilt. Its a jspec with 70k orginal miles. I dont have any oil mods to increase pressure.
you should stick to the stock rev limit or under, so 8200rpm or maybe like 7500rpm.

if you're running a stock turbo its not going to make power past 5500 anyways
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by scathcart
Shift according to powerband.
Don't set a rev limiter. You'll do more damage hitting the rev limiter under load than you will slightly over revving it.
Your internals and counterweight are good to around 8200, same as the stock iron seals. I'd try to keep it under that.
Originally Posted by peejay
Rev limiters hurt rotaries.

If your oil pressure is good then you can safely take it to... hmm. My car has stock internals with just a little clearancing and a bump in oil pressure to 85-90psi and I hang it off of 9500, and I've pinned the 10k tach on a mis-shift before. 2mm seal engines are much more rev friendly than the old stuff.

With a turbo I'd REALLY be worried about the effects of a rev limiter on the engine's effective VE. If the rotor face comes around twice before firing, it will have fewer exhaust residuals than if it didn't, so you might detonate. This in addition to the natural bad effects of a rev limiter to begin with.

If it were mine, I'd find where the engine stops making power, then retard timing REALLY far after that point. This actually is my plan after I upgrade my injectors, since right now my "rev limiter" is the ofact that the injectors are wide open so the engine runs so lean that it can't make any power.
Very good info. Just thought I'd throw I'm my recent experiences. Just got my s4 t2 all setup and tuned on dyno so I did a few full throttle pulls to get some numbers. Did two runs & hit the ign cut limiter on my sprint re. First time hit 8k limiter shot some loud flames made 530 hp. Second run did the same thing hit limiter 8k...cracked an iron right on the limiter. No more limiters for me...maybe a softcut fuel limiter not sure yet but def learned a lot from my experiences and these two posts.
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo2driver88
Hi, I have a question, the other day I was in my 88 fc3 turbo2 and I was in 3rd gear at about 6800-7000rpms at 12psi, and somethin happened, I have like no power at all, it barely idles and very hard to crank up, blows smoke out the tailpipe followed by a flame, it ran perfect before this happened, can someone please help me??
Pretty sure u broke a seal
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