When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1986 NA rx7 and im having a problem starting the car. The car turns over and at soon it does it revs to aound 3000 rpm, then dies out. I replaced the fuel pump(and strainer), the fuel filter, the injectors, and spark plugs.
The previous owner deleted the egr and has block off plates, if that matters.
Edit 1: added a link to a video of me starting the car.
Last edited by Prediict; Sep 26, 2015 at 04:11 PM.
There is a fuel switch inside the AFM which could be problematic. Jumpering the fuel check connector bypasses the switch. If the problem exists then the fuel switch is not the likely culprit.
So it could be a vacuum leak? Im thunking of going to a junk yard and looking for those parts.
There's no reason to go add them back on, unless you want to. Performing a vacuum leak/smoke test may reveal the culprit and simply reseal/replace the affected part.
Also as Satch suggested, the switch in the AFM has been known to cause the same symptom. Try his method first since it's the easiest to test and report back.
is your AFM plugged in?
If it is not then the car will start but die..every time..UNTIL you get the connector on the AFM and the ECU can read it.It needs to see the AFM connected.
is your AFM plugged in?
If it is not then the car will start but die..every time..UNTIL you get the connector on the AFM and the ECU can read it.It needs to see the AFM connected.
AFM is connected. I replaced the intake cause it had a hole, but no luck.
There is a fuel switch inside the AFM which could be problematic. Jumpering the fuel check connector bypasses the switch. If the problem exists then the fuel switch is not the likely culprit.
So after looking i found alot of open valves. I plugged up almost all of them. Now the car starts and stays on for a bit, but the idle is rough and after 20 secs it dies again.
So after looking i found alot of open valves. I plugged up almost all of them. Now the car starts and stays on for a bit, but the idle is rough and after 20 secs it dies again.
this bottom taped port needs to be sealed better also.
i have a strong feeling you also have leaks at the bottom injector seals and the plenum gaskets. spray carb cleaner around the intake with the engine running to find them. jumpering the fuel pump test connector may allow you to keep the engine running by feathering the throttle.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 27, 2015 at 09:41 PM.
Other people's problems though are your financial gain. Would you rather be a Psychiatrist?
FC owners are cheap, that is why these cars end up like this in the first place. yes it was income but not when you're making a couple dollars when you should be making a couple hundred. i once had a car come in with an "extended harness", i started tugging on connectors and they started pulling off the harness like scabs, it's disgusting to see people think that wrapping a couple bare wires together and taping over it is 'okay', except this isn't a home theater system.
spend the time and do it right or just pour some gas on it and let it burn is my advice nowadays. pick up the proper caps, replace the injector grommets, verify the intake gaskets were cleaned properly and are sealed well. i've seen plenty of half assed gasket removals cause massive intake leaks, this all is like $50 in parts, and peace of mind is worth the effort.
but then again i'm already disgusted by why so many people feel the need to remove emissions when it plays an integral part to engine function and even power. stripping an engine like this is what created these problems in the first place, yet my warnings continue to go unheard. sure, ditch the cat but leave the rest.
if i offend anyone by saying it, too bad.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 28, 2015 at 09:31 AM.
so I just ordered the intake gaskets(both upper and lower, why not?) and the lower injector grommets. I don't really know how to jumper connections but ill give it a try after the parts come in. Due to work I wont be able to do the work till this weekend.
hopefully that'll get me closer to having this baby up and running.
side note: as I previously stated, the previous owner did the whole EGR delete. I wouldn't have deleted it if it still had the system.
the fuel pump test connector is a yellow female 2 pin connector that drops off the main engine harness right by the RF strut tower, assuming it is still routed the way it was from the factory.
They were old and brittle. I threw them away before i took a pic. The insides of the manifold are dirty, so ima have to spend some time cleaning it.(gasket duty anyone?)