A couple of months ago I bought the Judge Ito porting templates (aggressive streetport). In the meanwhile I have started the actual porting after doing lots of searching on several forums to get some good answers on my questions:

1. how to finish the edges of the portings? Sharp,soft just cut straight and rub with some fine grid sandpaper for smooth side seal transition?
2. when you have cut out the contours of the new port shape, can you remove material straight donw or angled? This depends on how large or which porting you apply off course.
3. how to adequately determine that you have removed an equal amount of material in matching ports? On cil heads you can do this with water and fill the combustion chamber. Can you do this on a rotary by closing one side of the port and fill with water, matching ports if they have thesame volume? Just a thought.

Here are some pictures of my work so far. Ports have been cut out as for shape.I'm now working downwards. I'll do the channel as wel but only roughly smoothing it out, no mirror finish because of the swirl effect (air/fuel)

Exhaust is to be done. I have both the streetport as the race streetport templates from RacingBeat. Don't know what to use exactly. i need to take emission somewhat into account (Europe).

Idea of my setup for refference:
- streetported 13B-REW engine with upgraded sec injectors(1300 or 1600) or 850's all around.
- non sequential turbos: first on stock 10 psi, later going up to 12-14
- PFC ECU
-HKS downpipe and dual 60mm free flowing exhaustfrom DP to rear muffler


PS: my digi cam is worthless so sorry about the blurry pics.
I'll post better ones tomorrow

 

That looks great and by the looks of it those are definately "Ito Ports." It looks like you did a good job. Nopistons.com has the exhaust port write up that will suit those ports! Nice job!

 

Thanks :-) Any info on ignition timing for seting up a timing map would be highly appreciated.

 

up... I'm sure lot's of people are interested in this info so keep it coming

 

More pictures, now with a better camera. Feel free to use the pictures to ad arrows or anything else to indicate where to take away extra material or where the dangerpoints are.

Many thanks,

Neal

 

Part 2

 

Thats fine! Judge Ito recommends not taken too much out of the intake runners. Take too much out and you can lose HP. Also dont do what I did and port through the runners and into the coolant passageway.lol....Will never do that again!

 

Anybody got some ignition timing tips for these ports??

 

outside shape looks good, but the short-turn could use some back cutting.

 

Should the opening side of the port be the same distance from the housing? If not why? Look at attached image to explain.

 

Possibility I think. It will improve (the 'softness' the turn on the right upper corner of the port like Guitarjunky mentionned

 

Nice work Neal.

I've got a set of ports like that

I took alot out of the Runner its self, the water seal edge of the runner on mine is nearly knife edged i realy took the lump out, the only other thing thats diffrent is i took more of a risk on the closeing edge of the port, I put a hole in a plate though finding out how far is too much but it think thats the only way to get an idea of how much meat there is in the runner thats can be removed. TBH i had a few scrap plates knocking about so it was esyer for me to determin how much i could take out safely.

 

It also,opens the intake sooner and bigger. Which I think is more important than the close side of the port?

 

Thing is if its Done spot on to The Template this is a Tried and Tested Port.

 

Chris will you use the ports like the templates? With the 'hard turn' in the upper right?. I'm debating about what to do next...

 

My port is ehactly the same shape as the Template (don't forget to add a Radius so the side seal doesn't catch.

I should be ale to tell you what its like in the next week or so as i'm running in at the moment..

 

Cool, do let me know, I'm curious. What parts did you use for the rebuild? A RA rebuild kit or similar?

 

When I ported, I kept a somewhat sharp corner in the top of the opening side of the port (similar to this port image above). I was told to not round, because a sharp cut off will keep the corner seal from wearing prematurely? I didnt use templates, just a micrometer and the rotor/housing engine and made sure not to open the port too big so the side seal has enough meat to keep it in place. Dont want that to fall into the combustion cycle!

So does anyone have any opinions on this?

 

I used an Atkins Kit with there Cryo treated Apex seals and solid Corner seals.

 

I'm a little confused with this? i did the usal chamfering so the side seal does'nt cath but the other edges are sharp, i also took quite alot out of the Runner under the Opening edge so it is almost knife edged.

 

I left all edges at somewhat sharp angles, except the close side of the port. Also removed the opening edge wall down to knife like (as "Grizzly mentioned above). I did not round the edge of the opening side of the port, because that would reduce the surface that my solid side seal rides along. I rounded on the inside of the opening side of the ports runner.

 

hey how did you make out with his ports? any problems with seals or anything.. i keep loosing side seals with his ports.. o i love the search button

 

No problems with sealing . engine has about 500kms on it now so can't tell much about that.


Ididn't use the templates at their far edges, I left the inner oil ring path untouched and left quite some margin for he corner seals to have support. Basically just using the ports to open the ports upwards and downwards.

 

yea thats where we figured the problem was with his templet. we opened up to the full templet and keep loosing the side seals so we were talking about just rising the port and not widing it at all, a friend of mine sais he dynoed 518hp around 30psi in his track rx7 and trapped a 10.1. i sucked a insert this time around and was told to use the solids with big ports like these. at any rate thanks for getting back to me

 

Only problem I'm having (no idea if this is related to the porting) is that my engine is not getting up to it's full potential.

It idles fine, very stable no issues. Only running 3 ps i of boost for break in and AFR mapping (upping boost in stages) but starting just over 2000rpm, the engine is 'holding back' or running a bit rough.or running a bit like it's missing a spark.


i have the HKS twin spark but I disconnected it after my last log run. I hope i will get some result from that tonight or after I upgrade the groundings this weekend.

I have no leakages, engines starts fine either cold or hot. I haven't doen a compression test since the rebuild (I'm a bit scared honestly) buit nothing else is indicating bad compression.