East Coast Tuning Session #2 with "thewird (SPRING 2016!)
09-10-15, 08:49 AM
#1
East Coast Tuning Session #2 with "thewird (SPRING 2016!)
Hello all,
I am trying to put together another tuning session with Marco and am looking for interest from any local rotaries that need their cars tuned. Here's a link to the last session a couple years ago
https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-for...013-a-1030176/
Like our first session, Marco's flight and accommodations will be split among all participants so the more we have the better it is for everybidy. Depending on the confirmed number of cars, this may be a one day or two day event.
I am looking into dyno options right now, last time was too expensive for such little dyno use. I like the idea of the dyno tuning for the obvious safety reasons and will let everybody know what to expect.
Please read and review Marco's check list with his do's and don't so out tuning session can go smoothly as possible.
"After tuning a handful of less then ready cars, I decided to create this little pre-tuning guide. Hopefully this will make the tuning process smoother and quicker for both the owner and I.
How do you prepare your car for tuning?
- The obvious, fresh oil change within the last 1000 km. If this is a fresh rebuild still on original oil, change it regardless of mileage.
- The dumb, car needs plates and insurance unless it’s a full race car. Also, the car needs a full tank of gas! Fill it up before you drop it off.
- Does your car have any kind of leaks (fuel, oil, coolant, exhaust)? Fix them first.
- Your spark plugs should be fairly new (less then 1000 km). Unless your car is fairly stock, you should be running 9 heat range plugs in both the leading and trailing holes for added reliability. Heavily modified RX-7’s will require colder plugs, contact me if you’re not sure what is best for you.
- Your fuel filter should have been changed within the last 2 years. If you do not know when it was changed, CHANGE IT. If you suspect bad/dirty gas caused your previous engine failure, change your fuel filter regardless of when you last changed it.
Do I have enough fuel? (Mostly Application Specific)
These are mostly from experience and your mileage may vary as every car is different even if they seem to be modified in the same way. Fuel is a critical part of the reliability of a rotary, there is no such thing as overkill, DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON IT.
Injectors:
- AVOID 850cc primaries. Your car will idle rich and drivability will suffer slightly which cannot be completely fixed by tuning. As well as decreased fuel economy.
- A stock port FD with stock sequential twins generally does not need an injector upgrade if the injectors are healthy. If you want to keep things stock and are running out of fuel, cleaning the injectors first is recommended over upgrading your injectors.
- A rich man’s non-sequential FD might need more then stock injectors at higher boost if the car is setup/optimized well for flow. (Intakes, intercooler, full exhaust, healthy twins etc.)
- A street port FD with stock twins will run out of fuel around 11 PSi with stock injectors depending on the porting.
- If you have a single turbo with a compressor inducer of 61mm or bigger, it is highly recommended you have 1600cc secondary injectors. ID1600/ID2000 are also an option to consider as they do not require resistors or a driver box (the only drawback is price)
Fuel pumps:
- Should I upgrade my 20+ year old stock fuel pump? Yes, even if the stock fuel pump should deliver enough fuel for your needs, do you really want to rely on a 20 year old pump?
- It is highly recommended if you do not have your fuel pump rewired directly to the battery with 10 gauge wire, that you do so. Make sure the relay is rated for 40 amps. (these suggestions are not overkill)
- I always used to recommend the Denso Supra TT OEM fuel pump over a Walbro as it has been proven to be more reliable time and time again over the years. Aeromotive also has a new pump out that delivers 340 lb/h and it has been proving reliable so far so I pretty much recommend this pump to everyone now. It is also quite affordable.
- If you’re aiming for 500+ rwhp, dual pumps or an external high flow pump are recommended. A single Aeromotive 340 pump has been able to achieve this on a few setups successfully."
Pricing for Marco's services has not been finalized yet but will be posted asap.
I'll start the interest thread, please add your name if you want to take advantage of this great opportunity to utilize an experienced and reputable tuner.
1. HalifaxFD
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
I am trying to put together another tuning session with Marco and am looking for interest from any local rotaries that need their cars tuned. Here's a link to the last session a couple years ago
https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-for...013-a-1030176/
Like our first session, Marco's flight and accommodations will be split among all participants so the more we have the better it is for everybidy. Depending on the confirmed number of cars, this may be a one day or two day event.
I am looking into dyno options right now, last time was too expensive for such little dyno use. I like the idea of the dyno tuning for the obvious safety reasons and will let everybody know what to expect.
Please read and review Marco's check list with his do's and don't so out tuning session can go smoothly as possible.
"After tuning a handful of less then ready cars, I decided to create this little pre-tuning guide. Hopefully this will make the tuning process smoother and quicker for both the owner and I.
How do you prepare your car for tuning?
- The obvious, fresh oil change within the last 1000 km. If this is a fresh rebuild still on original oil, change it regardless of mileage.
- The dumb, car needs plates and insurance unless it’s a full race car. Also, the car needs a full tank of gas! Fill it up before you drop it off.
- Does your car have any kind of leaks (fuel, oil, coolant, exhaust)? Fix them first.
- Your spark plugs should be fairly new (less then 1000 km). Unless your car is fairly stock, you should be running 9 heat range plugs in both the leading and trailing holes for added reliability. Heavily modified RX-7’s will require colder plugs, contact me if you’re not sure what is best for you.
- Your fuel filter should have been changed within the last 2 years. If you do not know when it was changed, CHANGE IT. If you suspect bad/dirty gas caused your previous engine failure, change your fuel filter regardless of when you last changed it.
Do I have enough fuel? (Mostly Application Specific)
These are mostly from experience and your mileage may vary as every car is different even if they seem to be modified in the same way. Fuel is a critical part of the reliability of a rotary, there is no such thing as overkill, DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON IT.
Injectors:
- AVOID 850cc primaries. Your car will idle rich and drivability will suffer slightly which cannot be completely fixed by tuning. As well as decreased fuel economy.
- A stock port FD with stock sequential twins generally does not need an injector upgrade if the injectors are healthy. If you want to keep things stock and are running out of fuel, cleaning the injectors first is recommended over upgrading your injectors.
- A rich man’s non-sequential FD might need more then stock injectors at higher boost if the car is setup/optimized well for flow. (Intakes, intercooler, full exhaust, healthy twins etc.)
- A street port FD with stock twins will run out of fuel around 11 PSi with stock injectors depending on the porting.
- If you have a single turbo with a compressor inducer of 61mm or bigger, it is highly recommended you have 1600cc secondary injectors. ID1600/ID2000 are also an option to consider as they do not require resistors or a driver box (the only drawback is price)
Fuel pumps:
- Should I upgrade my 20+ year old stock fuel pump? Yes, even if the stock fuel pump should deliver enough fuel for your needs, do you really want to rely on a 20 year old pump?
- It is highly recommended if you do not have your fuel pump rewired directly to the battery with 10 gauge wire, that you do so. Make sure the relay is rated for 40 amps. (these suggestions are not overkill)
- I always used to recommend the Denso Supra TT OEM fuel pump over a Walbro as it has been proven to be more reliable time and time again over the years. Aeromotive also has a new pump out that delivers 340 lb/h and it has been proving reliable so far so I pretty much recommend this pump to everyone now. It is also quite affordable.
- If you’re aiming for 500+ rwhp, dual pumps or an external high flow pump are recommended. A single Aeromotive 340 pump has been able to achieve this on a few setups successfully."
Pricing for Marco's services has not been finalized yet but will be posted asap.
I'll start the interest thread, please add your name if you want to take advantage of this great opportunity to utilize an experienced and reputable tuner.
1. HalifaxFD
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Last edited by misterstyx69; 10-05-15 at 05:32 PM.
09-12-15, 05:27 AM
#2
Spinning Dorito
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In an effort to expand the pool you can draw from, what all is Marco tuning lately?
For example, when he was down here last he was talking about starting with Mazdaedit to tune stock ECU RX8s for example.
For example, when he was down here last he was talking about starting with Mazdaedit to tune stock ECU RX8s for example.
09-13-15, 12:02 PM
#5
Update on what Marco is able to tune along with his pricing.
"I tune anything with a rotary in it at this point as long as it has a standalone. I can also tune OEM RX-8 ECU's of any year (though occasionally I'm not able to connect to the ECU on the spot due to being unable to decode the map for less common ECU VIN's which sometimes takes a few hours to a few days to decode from the programmer)."
Yes, my pricing has changed a little...
RX-8 (OEM ECU's): $350
Stock turbo FD's & everything N/A: $400
Everything else turbo up to 18 psi: $450
20+ psi: $500
"I tune anything with a rotary in it at this point as long as it has a standalone. I can also tune OEM RX-8 ECU's of any year (though occasionally I'm not able to connect to the ECU on the spot due to being unable to decode the map for less common ECU VIN's which sometimes takes a few hours to a few days to decode from the programmer)."
Yes, my pricing has changed a little...
RX-8 (OEM ECU's): $350
Stock turbo FD's & everything N/A: $400
Everything else turbo up to 18 psi: $450
20+ psi: $500
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09-15-15, 08:15 PM
#9
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
Or you could be like me and have a second gen that WAS an N/A, that now has a turbo, and is running an Adaptronic (eventually, when I actually get it started).
If I can get it running and some miles on it, I may be in.
If I can get it running and some miles on it, I may be in.
Can't tune if it doesn't start.
09-27-15, 01:31 PM
#17
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
Hey Marco, I have a thread going on it here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/88-convertible-wont-start-very-weird-problems-setup-please-help-its-been-2-yrs-1089888/#post11973061
And advice you can offer would be appreciated.
And advice you can offer would be appreciated.
