My R2

My mods are...
Medium Intercooler
Cold Air Intake
Catback
Downpipe
Pettit ECU
and other none hp gaining items

I plan on getting...
midpipe
upgraded fuel pump
and a couple of injectors

Will I hit the 11s with this set-up? I plan on running about 12 psi through the STOCK turbos. What do you guys think? Do I have to port the engine or can I leave it as is? All I want is some Z06 bootie!!! Hell I'd like some Viper bootie too. What I mean by bootie is not really smoking them but NOT getting SMOKED!!!

Thanks

flying taco

Hell dude.. i'd port... y not? It adds some nice power and such. Gas milage will decrease but I'm sure u prly don't care about that too much.

FT

spyfish007

Just wait till you have to get a new engine.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I'd second that.. Wait until you need a new engine or a rebuild.

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

I would also wait, but I have heard that porting your engine results in a low-end loss of power. But a substantial gain on the top end of the powerband.

Madman

I wouldnt exactly call it low end power loss... It is more loss of low end drivability. You just gotta give her a little more love on the low end

However, this is NOT a con to porting. I say when you engine starts go, then get a new ported one.

kwikrx7

why spend the money now when you don't have to. You'll need a new engine sooner or later. Street-porting adds around 20-30 rwhp and makes a noticeable difference. If you need a new engine though, might as well do the street-port

MAVrick

Why do all the rex7 owners on here say thi? It's like admitting you're driving a time bomb...."yeah, well when my engine blows, yada yada yadda"
I also hear of a lot of people on here saying they blew their engine on the w/end, etc.

I'm not flaming anyone, I just don't understand.
Is it because rotary's don't last too long, or what?
How many ticks are they good for, before they're worn out?

Regards

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Port no question about it.
Rotarys last long if well taken care of (longer than piston engines in my experiance). If it makes you feel any better I have over 200k miles rotary engine experiance and I want my engines to go so I can go Ape **** and port them, big single Turbo, etc..... You have to keep a good eye on everything and make sure its tuned right. I haven't gone through any engines.

spyfish007

Well I state this fact because most of us on the forum didn't buy the car originally. Therefore it can be difficult to figure out if the car was properely maintained. The engine can last for a long time if you treat it right. Also the power bug bites most people and they push the car really hard with lots of power and not always tuned correctly.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

This is a big factor! Did the previous owner take care of the car? Was it ever over heated? Etc, ect, ect........

wonder1and

Im going for a street port...
Jason told me about a guy w. 470 to the wheels on my turbo (T04S) also if you port your engine ahead of time you can rid yourself of the transport cost that goes with it (mine was $450 for a 600mile trip :[ ) Plus some mad h-way hp goes along with it.
Happy Rotoring,
Ryker
P.S. My engine poped @ 90k

peejay

Port.

Because if you put the engine back together with stock ports you'll keep kicking yourself that you didn't port it.

If you do port it, the worst that will happen is that you'll want to take the engine back apart to make 'em bigger.

I'm assuming that the engine is currently in pieces on a workbench somewhere... if you're considering porting a still-operable, still-running car, sure go for it, it's the perfect excuse to tear it all down and mic' everything out and replace as needed. Or the other way around. "Well I was doing a maintenance rebuild and i accidentally scrubbed the exhaust ports too hard and now a kitten can crawl in to my engine..."

My R2

Well the money thing just showed up and it showed my that I did not have enough to port. The engine is in the car and to remove it take it apart is costly to say the least especially when the engine is running fine. I do have another question though...
If I went high flow cat would I need to get a fuel pump or injectors or both? I want to keep the Pettit ECU because I cannot afford the Apex Power FC yet

kevinmfaust

Dont port. I just spent some time with Roger Mandeville and the research he did was not to port unless you where ready to do alot of other mods.
He runs all his rebuilds on his dyno and he found out that by raising the port by just 3mm the peak H.P. is 400-500 RPMs higher. To take advantage of the new peak HP you would have to shift after red line. New higher HP figure looks peachy keen on a dyno sheet but in the real world (track days / drag racing) you can not take advantage of it because the ECU limits shift point by red line. You would need to finely balance the rotors, counter weight, and flywheel so that mechanicly you could safely bring up the red line, and then reprogram the ECU for a higher red line. At that point you could take advantage of the porting job. And it is also harder to cool a poted engine.
Kevin

qwck10th

Waaaahahahaha.
Sounds like the Racing Beat race exhaust template

My R2:
Porting depends on what you want to do with the car. I have a lot of respect for Roger, and IMO, he's right. Porting is in the same class of mod's as a new turbo. It'll push the torque curve up in the RPM range, so you'll need to be able to operate safely up there. Plus, you'll need more fuel, better intake, better exhaust, and the ability to figit with the fuel/ignition maps. If the engine is not apart already, don't mess with it. It costs a couple hundred in gasgets and seals just to open it up and put it back together - and thats if you DIY.

Steve C.
Cat, the other white meat.
Tastes like chicken:p

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

I say port it. I mean why not? I guess we covered the whole loss of low end torque thing, and I am defnetly going to port mine in the next few months.

13BAce

Yeah, porting doesn't really hurt the low end much.

13BAce

You should be able to run higher boost, like 15-16 PSI. THat should get you into the 11's. 12 PSI probably won't do it.

By the way, when I rebuilt my motor it was still running fine; but it WAS out of the car while I was changing the color of the car.

RICE RACING

A proper done street port is worth it's (metal shavings) weight in gold !

The comment about increased rpm's red lines etc is plain bullshit, sure these do go up, and sub systems need to be modified to get the full benifits of the modification (porting).

However the difference in a ported engine versus a restrictive std ported engine at ANY revs above 4500rpm is unreal. And the fact that the std ported engine dries up like a nun's **** above 6500rpm rendering the last 1300rpm useless (7800rpm cut out on 3rd gen).

A good street port will make power all the way through to the std redline with out abnormal stress at all.

Do not listen to the soft ***** who tell you not to port, if you do you will regret not doing the modification.

peejay

I regret my porting job... I didn't make 'em big enough. Need to make 'em more biggerful.

You're totally right when you say "you can't make a street port too large"! Unless you go fishing in a water jacket or something,,,

maxpesce

Mandeville is correct - Porting that raises the exhaust port hurts street drivability because of the intake/exhaust overlap, BUT There is lots of port area to be gained w/ little or no change in overlap - w/ My street port I feel very little diff (plus or minus) at launch - but Hwy Roll-on in 3rd (auto=4th manual) is WOW fast when the second turbo stages and I get 12+ psi boost 70mph-90mph is practially instantanious

kevinmfaust

Interesting point about altering the port size without changing its height. The conversation I had with Mr. Mandeville was not realy about drivability becauce my car is going to do alot or track events. My conversation revolved aroung the usability of the modification. He found that the optimum shift point was past red line. If you use the stock ecu and red line you fell off the torque curve too much. It all has to do with optimum shift point. But the conversation was also about altering timing...not the size.
Kevin

RICE RACING

I will give you the tip now, IN EVERY TURBO ROTARY SIDE PORT I HAVE SEEN AND DONE there is no way that you can make the engine have a shift point very far in excess of 8000rpm.

My car for example had the largest exhaust ports you can put into a rotor housing without letting coolant leak into the engine !

This engine when equiped with a 1.32 rear housing on a 600BHP capable TO4 and a proper tunned length 13inch runner exhaust manifold gives peak power @ 8000 to 8200rpm ...peak shift rpm is 8200 to 8400rpm which is WELL within the mechanical stress limits of the engine if properly clearanced and at a level of 600BHP will not require "snap ringed rotors" so long as the revs are below 8500rpm, also these late modle engines have a much higher natural frequency of vibration in the rotor assembly being a 12 pin gear as apposed to a 9pin in the earlier engines.

If you equipe this type of porting with a 1.15 housing for example the optimum shift point in conjunction with a slightly longer exhaust manifold is around 7800rpm (within the factory ECU limit) Torque peaks for theis set up happen at around 6500rpm and max power around 7200 to 7400rpm. I have this data logged so I know what the difference is !

It is a myth that you will alter the power point that greatly, to a point where it is unusable with a maximum ported side port engine, by maximum I mean THE LARGEST intake and exhaust ports you can physicaly put into the housings (non Bridge or secondary PP) with out water or oil leaking in or the seals droping into the ports.

The interaction between exhaust tunning and turbine housing/general turbo wastegate matching can shift the torque and hence power peak where ever you need it to be within reason.

I repeat, You cannot make the ports to large ! You can make them too small and loose out on volumetric efficiency over a rival and wonder why the hell he beats you with much less boost !

My personal experience with this is that you can have a perfect linear HIGH power spread to happen from 5500rpm to 8400rpm with a "street ported" engine, it WILL be TOTALY usable with a std ratio Gearbox and if the engine (rotors specifically) are clearanced correctly you will have no reliablity issues at all.

If you are not will to do these detail mods then do not alter the ports, you will make less power with more boost have a narrower rev range and in general have an engine that will get smoked by a decent "street" ported one every time.

Properly executed street ports with maximum overlap available have been proven to make over 10 to 15% more power than the non ported "restrictive" versions, and they mostly all make peak power well with in 7800rpm.

I circuit race my car, and my car accelerates quicker than a Ferrari F40, has the same top speed, same weight...I use a std ratio T2 gearbox and have peak torque @ 7200rpm & power @ 8000 rpm shift at 8200rpm. I do this with ONLY 1 BAR boost (14.5psi) and an air to air IC. I used to circuit race my car with a more mild ported engine with same turbo setup and it was not as quick.

I for one do not agree with the STD port timing you find in stock engines, For performance it is a joke, and is FAR to RESTRICTIVE. But if you want to go slower than I am not going to argue with you or Roger.

My opinions and experiences on the subject.

ps: If I was closer to you I would take you for a drive in my car so you could see how unusable the power up high in the rev range is.

kevinmfaust

WOW 600 HP. I dont think my lime dick could take that!
Kevin