gsl-se vs FC/FD?

 

hahaha. I think your talking about kiwi-re. There in NZ not OZ... thought the title Kiwi would give it away

http://www.kiwi-re.com

4 rotor kit is on there web site.

 

lol my bad, i tried to help, thought that counts right?

 

The "23A" in the Scoot Sports car uses two Power FCs. How they got it to work I don't know.

 

i wish i could make a 23a, with 2 side draft o.e.r carbs.

 

Any updates???

 

Well as of today and for the last few weeks... there has been a temporary pause on this project. if some of you may have already seen, we have started building my friends Race car over the last few months so between his car and getting my car ready for current race events. there has not been much progress on this for now. I will however say that my next step is to complete the peripheral sleve into the 4 housings which will be done in conjunction with the other 3 housings for the 3 rotor that is being built for the other race car. I would say within the next 2 months we should have the rotor housings completed. CLR has been very busy lately as well trying to make deadlines with customers so its just worked out for all of us to take a little break from this.

Trust me, this project will be completed.....

check out the race car!
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/bigals-fd-20b-racecar-project-747809/

 

Crazy Build..nice

 

im am also curious about this, especiall y on an NA car, wont 3mm seals just chatter on sustained high rpm application like road racing?

 

Not if the seals are ceramic due to the lightness of them.

 

Yes, i will be using ceramic Apex seals as we did in my 2 rotor application and the seals go with a double spring set up. between the light weight and the springs there is no chatter. CLR has run this set up in all his race engines for years. yes it may be true that the 2mm seal may have a better seal than the 3mm. but you get the advantage of integrity and strength. just a little bit more peace of mind.

 

Hmmm any noticable additional wear on the apex seals from the dual springs on the ceramic 2 rotor?

 

thats the advantage to ceramic apex seals. the ceramic will not wear. and if lubricated correctly.. the nickel finish on the housing will wear at a minimum if any. I just dont recomend this for forced induction applications. N/A will go forever. i have witnessed Carlos Lopex run an engine on hid dyno at 9200 rpm shut off the fuel completely and the engine shut off and then started right back up. No damage whatsoever.

 

Are you talking about ceramic or carbon seals?

Ceramic seals have been proven time and time again they work excellent in all engines and there are particular benefits to running them in forced induction applications. Slightly stronger than regular seals and far less susceptible to no warpage/distortion under extreme conditions that regular seals may see.
I've been running nothing but NRS ceramic seals since 2000 in several engines, all of which are/have been turbocharged.

Carbon seals on the other hand are only for n/a engines as they cannot tolerate the stresses involved with forced induction applications. They are lighter than the stock steel seals and wear less too but are nowhere near durable enough to use with forced induction engines.

 

I am talking about ceramic Apex Seals. Its not that they are stronger but they are less susseptable to ware and warpage. but there is a fine line with braking. if you do break one of these in your motor. you minus will just throw the whole motor away. Now it seems that you have the tune and set-up all figured out with your set ups and turbo charged engines are not usually the pick of choice for road racing, so for a 9 second pass as long as the tune is right, i dont see a problem. but .... put these in a forced induction motor that someone has just put together and is now going to go to a dyno and tune. (Good Luck) LOL.

 

There are plenty of turboed road race rotary's out there, certainly not as many as n/a's though.
Please do not insult me by assuming I'm a drag racer I time trialed and/or open tracked all of my engines and have popped engines with ceramics. On one, both side housings, rotor, rotor housing and turbo were wasted, no more damage than a failure with steel seals in many case and certainly not requiring "to throw the whole motor away". In that case, the stupid tuner advanced the timing 30 degrees. Not a cheap mistake.
On the other, the seal just cracked and the engine continued to run with no damage to anything else. Pulled out the one seal and that engine is still going strong in a race car, afaik. I've posted pics of the broken seal in Glassman's "test results" thread.

My point is that ceramics have been proven in all engines under all conditions and will not necessarily destroy everything in their path on their way out of an engine if they do fail. I've seen it first hand and documented it in this forum, as have others.

 

I myself have seen 2 engines that have failed with ceramic apex seals as well. one was a turbo drag car and when the seal went it took the other 2 along with it. destroyed the housing and plates on that side and then i gues got in the oil and destroyed the bearings e-shaft and turbo. the other was not as bad and it was on an N/A motor. damaged the whole rear rotor and housing but given the fact that 2 of the apex seals polverized. the engine builder would not build the engine without new bearings throughout the whole engine. i guess we could say we seen both sides of the spectrum. and im sorry to have implied you were a drag racer. not my intentions at all. LOL@!

 

How did they break ceramics in N/A car?

 

On the N/A engine i dont know the details because i only saw the aftermath. it was a couple years back when they use to have those drag wars here at morroso. it was actually an engine by one of the local engine builders here.

 

Do you know what brand of ceramics that blew? Not all ceramics break the same. So far the pics I have seen on this forum with the nrs cermics have only broken in more solid pieces and have kept the rotors and housings in tack.

 

This may be a little nosey but I want to ask do you have an approximate cost of building a 4 rotor engine?

 

can't wait for the final results

 

Should be an insane engine good luck man.

 

Wow! its been a long time since i have updated anything.

As of tonight, My 4 rotor Kit is almost completed as per Alec Bell and he says that its probably going to be another week or so before everything is ready for shipping.

As for what we got done here, Rotors have been lightened and will be replacing the bearings in all the rotors to prepare them for balancing.

i will post up some pics soon.

 

*rubs hands together and heads to BK for lunch*