Fritz's Track Videos
06-19-12, 10:13 AM
#1376
09-26-12, 01:21 PM
#1377
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Last weekend I drove with PCA FSR on the VIR S course which is a really fun challenging short technical track.
My main track weapon is still on jack stands getting patched up so I was driving one of my DD twin turbo cars and after two laps I was quickly reminded of how hot these thing run so I immediatly turned the boost down all the way so it was running at about 7 or 8 psi and short shifted to manage the elevated temps.
With the boost down and short shifting between 6 and 7k rpms the car was on the edge of blowing up but she hung in there with intake temps at 65c and both water and oil at 220.
Mods:
PFS smic and m2 intake
Dual nicely ducted mocal oil coolers and Ron Davis radiator which could use a little better ducting
PFC tuned by Ray at PFS
M2 wilwood front BBK
PFS sways and springs with koni yellow (4 1/2 turns front 4 turns rear)
245 45 16 RA1s
Despite being low on power (boost) and not having much tire the car was only passed 3 times which says a lot for how cool this car still is with just bolt ons.
For setup reference I'd recommend the following if you're tracking an FD with stock size tires and down springs:
2 camber front (maybe even 2.2)
1.7 rear
Zero toe in the back or like plus .02 in just to help with accelerating
.10 toe in Front .15 is probably the normal 1/16 recommend toe but I think that's too much.
Caster 5.5 (6 is too much)
I had brake trouble to the point of almost running into a car going into the pits. I actually had to use the e-brake because the pedal went to the floor. It was getting very soft/low by the end of most of the sessions and I was having to pump them up at each brake zone. I bled them once which help some but they were never very good. So this is a kit that really needs some ducting on short technical tracks where the brakes see lots of work.
However as mentioned the FD still pretty much kicked all the P car booty
Most of the laps are 1.20s which isn't too shabby on the S course and I probably ran some 19s in some of the non traffic laps.
See vids:
My main track weapon is still on jack stands getting patched up so I was driving one of my DD twin turbo cars and after two laps I was quickly reminded of how hot these thing run so I immediatly turned the boost down all the way so it was running at about 7 or 8 psi and short shifted to manage the elevated temps.
With the boost down and short shifting between 6 and 7k rpms the car was on the edge of blowing up but she hung in there with intake temps at 65c and both water and oil at 220.
Mods:
PFS smic and m2 intake
Dual nicely ducted mocal oil coolers and Ron Davis radiator which could use a little better ducting
PFC tuned by Ray at PFS
M2 wilwood front BBK
PFS sways and springs with koni yellow (4 1/2 turns front 4 turns rear)
245 45 16 RA1s
Despite being low on power (boost) and not having much tire the car was only passed 3 times which says a lot for how cool this car still is with just bolt ons.
For setup reference I'd recommend the following if you're tracking an FD with stock size tires and down springs:
2 camber front (maybe even 2.2)
1.7 rear
Zero toe in the back or like plus .02 in just to help with accelerating
.10 toe in Front .15 is probably the normal 1/16 recommend toe but I think that's too much.
Caster 5.5 (6 is too much)
I had brake trouble to the point of almost running into a car going into the pits. I actually had to use the e-brake because the pedal went to the floor. It was getting very soft/low by the end of most of the sessions and I was having to pump them up at each brake zone. I bled them once which help some but they were never very good. So this is a kit that really needs some ducting on short technical tracks where the brakes see lots of work.
However as mentioned the FD still pretty much kicked all the P car booty
Most of the laps are 1.20s which isn't too shabby on the S course and I probably ran some 19s in some of the non traffic laps.
See vids:
09-28-12, 01:23 AM
#1382
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Hi Fritz,
Sweet vids. Hopefully i can post vids of me burning gt3s one day..lol... should have some vids of me hitting some cones in autocrossing next month though...
It's Tony from MA. The dude that you hooked up with the CRV. Do you have a passenger side rear upper control arm?
Sweet vids. Hopefully i can post vids of me burning gt3s one day..lol... should have some vids of me hitting some cones in autocrossing next month though...
It's Tony from MA. The dude that you hooked up with the CRV. Do you have a passenger side rear upper control arm?
09-28-12, 09:24 AM
#1384
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Hi Fritz,
Sweet vids. Hopefully i can post vids of me burning gt3s one day..lol... should have some vids of me hitting some cones in autocrossing next month though...
It's Tony from MA. The dude that you hooked up with the CRV. Do you have a passenger side rear upper control arm?
Sweet vids. Hopefully i can post vids of me burning gt3s one day..lol... should have some vids of me hitting some cones in autocrossing next month though...
It's Tony from MA. The dude that you hooked up with the CRV. Do you have a passenger side rear upper control arm?
Nice meeting you and hopefully the CRV will fix the problem.
I PM'd you about the arm.
Good luck at the autocross
09-29-12, 01:33 AM
#1385
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Judging by how fast you were passing youd never think you were only running 7-8 psi & short shifting to boot. Nice driving.
Last weekend I drove with PCA FSR on the VIR S course which is a really fun challenging short technical track.
My main track weapon is still on jack stands getting patched up so I was driving one of my DD twin turbo cars and after two laps I was quickly reminded of how hot these thing run so I immediatly turned the boost down all the way so it was running at about 7 or 8 psi and short shifted to manage the elevated temps.
With the boost down and short shifting between 6 and 7k rpms the car was on the edge of blowing up but she hung in there with intake temps at 65c and both water and oil at 220.
Mods:
PFS smic and m2 intake
Dual nicely ducted mocal oil coolers and Ron Davis radiator which could use a little better ducting
PFC tuned by Ray at PFS
M2 wilwood front BBK
PFS sways and springs with koni yellow (4 1/2 turns front 4 turns rear)
245 45 16 RA1s
Despite being low on power (boost) and not having much tire the car was only passed 3 times which says a lot for how cool this car still is with just bolt ons.
For setup reference I'd recommend the following if you're tracking an FD with stock size tires and down springs:
2 camber front (maybe even 2.2)
1.7 rear
Zero toe in the back or like plus .02 in just to help with accelerating
.10 toe in Front .15 is probably the normal 1/16 recommend toe but I think that's too much.
Caster 5.5 (6 is too much)
I had brake trouble to the point of almost running into a car going into the pits. I actually had to use the e-brake because the pedal went to the floor. It was getting very soft/low by the end of most of the sessions and I was having to pump them up at each brake zone. I bled them once which help some but they were never very good. So this is a kit that really needs some ducting on short technical tracks where the brakes see lots of work.
However as mentioned the FD still pretty much kicked all the P car booty
Most of the laps are 1.20s which isn't too shabby on the S course and I probably ran some 19s in some of the non traffic laps.
See vids:
PCA FSR VIR South Course Part II 9/23/12 - YouTube
PCA FSR VIR South Course 9/22/2012 - YouTube
My main track weapon is still on jack stands getting patched up so I was driving one of my DD twin turbo cars and after two laps I was quickly reminded of how hot these thing run so I immediatly turned the boost down all the way so it was running at about 7 or 8 psi and short shifted to manage the elevated temps.
With the boost down and short shifting between 6 and 7k rpms the car was on the edge of blowing up but she hung in there with intake temps at 65c and both water and oil at 220.
Mods:
PFS smic and m2 intake
Dual nicely ducted mocal oil coolers and Ron Davis radiator which could use a little better ducting
PFC tuned by Ray at PFS
M2 wilwood front BBK
PFS sways and springs with koni yellow (4 1/2 turns front 4 turns rear)
245 45 16 RA1s
Despite being low on power (boost) and not having much tire the car was only passed 3 times which says a lot for how cool this car still is with just bolt ons.
For setup reference I'd recommend the following if you're tracking an FD with stock size tires and down springs:
2 camber front (maybe even 2.2)
1.7 rear
Zero toe in the back or like plus .02 in just to help with accelerating
.10 toe in Front .15 is probably the normal 1/16 recommend toe but I think that's too much.
Caster 5.5 (6 is too much)
I had brake trouble to the point of almost running into a car going into the pits. I actually had to use the e-brake because the pedal went to the floor. It was getting very soft/low by the end of most of the sessions and I was having to pump them up at each brake zone. I bled them once which help some but they were never very good. So this is a kit that really needs some ducting on short technical tracks where the brakes see lots of work.
However as mentioned the FD still pretty much kicked all the P car booty
Most of the laps are 1.20s which isn't too shabby on the S course and I probably ran some 19s in some of the non traffic laps.
See vids:
PCA FSR VIR South Course Part II 9/23/12 - YouTube
PCA FSR VIR South Course 9/22/2012 - YouTube
09-30-12, 04:12 PM
#1387
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My track car is back!!!
Just needs an alignment and then it's ready for CMS chinmotorsports.com on the full course at VIR 10/28,29/12: http://www.chinmotorsports.com/event...asp?listid=196
Will post some pics asap. Brent will be amazed at how much better it looks. No real professional body work other than the pull which pretty much fixed the dent on the drivers side and lots of massaging with a baseball bat and it's not rubbing etc..... on the passenger side that took the hit.
It now has the 4.4 LSD from Carol's car along with some low mileage jspec susp pieces, 94 sub frame etc......
Would love to see some FDs at this event
Lots of track time, open passing in the advanced groups etc....
Will post some pics asap. Brent will be amazed at how much better it looks. No real professional body work other than the pull which pretty much fixed the dent on the drivers side and lots of massaging with a baseball bat and it's not rubbing etc..... on the passenger side that took the hit.
It now has the 4.4 LSD from Carol's car along with some low mileage jspec susp pieces, 94 sub frame etc......
Would love to see some FDs at this event
Lots of track time, open passing in the advanced groups etc....
09-30-12, 09:35 PM
#1389
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Ramon will be there with his GT3 so I'll try to run with him some.
11-27-12, 06:06 PM
#1390
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Hey Fritz, what wheel size do you prefer when out on track? I was thinking of moving to a square setup of 17x9.5 all around with 255's. Do you have any comments on this setup? I do both track and autocross so I thought I could go with a square setup, but I'm not sure what this would translate to out on track.
11-29-12, 07:55 AM
#1391
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Hey Fritz, what wheel size do you prefer when out on track? I was thinking of moving to a square setup of 17x9.5 all around with 255's. Do you have any comments on this setup? I do both track and autocross so I thought I could go with a square setup, but I'm not sure what this would translate to out on track.
Ideally I'd run 18 x 10 plus 50 285 30 18s all the way around but I'm a cheap bastard and stick with 17 x 9.5 plus 42s with 275 40 17 because the tires are less expensive, the tire edge is taller/bigger aspect ratio so you can hit some curbs with less chance of bending the wheel etc......
Advantages to 17 inch wheels:
cheaper tires
bigger aspect ratio so the tire is more compliant
Advantages to 18 inch wheels:
larger selection of tires and tire sizes
smaller diameter so they are faster
Car sits lower so it's faster
smaller aspect ratio so they respond quicker/stiffer but will also get hot faster
look better
Clearly the advantage goes to 18s so that's what I'd recommend.
Happy Holidays
03-18-13, 03:52 PM
#1393
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1st track event of 2013 is in the books and it could of been better for both Pete and I.
My diff drain bolt is still leaking and the exhaust leak is probably getting worse because my boost was down which was evident when viewing my one vid which was my last session. Video is boring but I loaded it anyway.
Pete's engine is likely still not right. It's showing all the typical symptoms of low compression which is a real bummer because it's been in and out like 4 times over the winter with other issues.
Next event (4/6,7/13) is THSCC TT on the VIR north course.
Here's the video and hopefully Pete will upload one of his which should be pretty cool because he had one camera directly on him and the other in the standard roll bar position.
My diff drain bolt is still leaking and the exhaust leak is probably getting worse because my boost was down which was evident when viewing my one vid which was my last session. Video is boring but I loaded it anyway.
Pete's engine is likely still not right. It's showing all the typical symptoms of low compression which is a real bummer because it's been in and out like 4 times over the winter with other issues.
Next event (4/6,7/13) is THSCC TT on the VIR north course.
Here's the video and hopefully Pete will upload one of his which should be pretty cool because he had one camera directly on him and the other in the standard roll bar position.
03-19-13, 09:11 AM
#1394
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One problem I noticed is the left rear is too low so it's rubbing at mid corner especially t17 causing some over steer so I'll probably spin each coilover up a turn which will take out a little camber and ad toe but I don't think it will hurt much because the car is set up pretty aggressively.
FRONT 2.2 camber and a little bit of toe (no more than 1/16 total/both sides combined) 5.5 caster REAR 2 camber zero toe
Susp is 7 years old (Tein Super Rs) and is starting to show it's age and the right rear is probably damaged from the Brent hit last year (I straightened it but it feels funny) so I plan to replace that soon with the exact same thing and have the old stuff rebuilt. The spring rates are around 800 pounds (16kg) front and rear. I have the fronts set in the middle and the rears set 4 up from soft or 1/4 stiff they are 16 way adj shocks. I plan to run some stickier tires this year and turn the boost up a little (i have stock primaries and 1200 secondaries/stock map so power is limited to about 375) and run in TTU but I won't compete at all it's a very competitive class in NASA mid atlantic right now with 4 or more TT cars running sub 2 laps at VIR. I'll shoot for a 2 flat lap and if I break 2 minutes I'll be ecstatic.
Front sway bar is a tri point (the thick one) set in the middle and the rear bar is an r1 bar slightly thicker than all the other FD bars including the R2. Front bar has adj links and the bar is nice and flat when the car is loaded which is hard to do if you have the fancy aluminum mounts (i forget there name) so I go with the latest stock mounts which are upgrades from the original with the RB front brace and have now issues with this setup at all and it's been 7 years.
GTC rear wing which works OK but I could use a bigger wing for sure. GTC front bumper and I need a splitter. Just added a REA knock off rear diffuser which looks cool but probably isn't helping much.
275 40 17 C51 Hankooks and will try the softer C71s. Hoosiers are too expensive 318 versus 220 for the Hankooks. Height is approx 25.5 inches (ground to fender) which is about as low as I can go with the tall radius wheels. Cold days I'll start at 27psi right side and 26psi left side. Hot days I'll start at 24psi right side and 23 psi left side. Shoot for 33 psi hot in the paddock. These are starting pressures and after each run I'll even them out so each tire has the same PSI after each session. I end up with different pressures on each tire at the end of the day and should start taking notes hehe.
Also has a very nice welded in rear bar that stiffens the chassis more than a basic roll bar which is a big help along with being fairly light weight approx 2800 with me in the seat.
03-19-13, 10:34 AM
#1396
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2650/350=7.58
This is what I try to essssplain to folks the car doesn't need power. It's light weight and has a killer suspension, aero etc.....with 350 you kill most everything other than cup cars on slicks.
As mentioned I'll try to get it out in TTU this year and it will be running against cars with 700 HP (I'll have no more than 375) and I don't think I'll get completely run over but it will be really hard for me to get on the podium. May have to go with some cheater tires like Michelin blues (doubtful though I'm too tight) or something LOL.
PS I just bought another car but shoot me a PM with a price on yours
03-19-13, 11:17 AM
#1397
Not a lot of 7 or 8 to one powered cars at club track days hehe
2650/350=7.58
This is what I try to essssplain to folks the car doesn't need power. It's light weight and has a killer suspension, aero etc.....with 350 you kill most everything other than cup cars on slicks.
As mentioned I'll try to get it out in TTU this year and it will be running against cars with 700 HP (I'll have no more than 375) and I don't think I'll get completely run over but it will be really hard for me to get on the podium. May have to go with some cheater tires like Michelin blues (doubtful though I'm too tight) or something LOL.
PS I just bought another car but shoot me a PM with a price on yours
2650/350=7.58
This is what I try to essssplain to folks the car doesn't need power. It's light weight and has a killer suspension, aero etc.....with 350 you kill most everything other than cup cars on slicks.
As mentioned I'll try to get it out in TTU this year and it will be running against cars with 700 HP (I'll have no more than 375) and I don't think I'll get completely run over but it will be really hard for me to get on the podium. May have to go with some cheater tires like Michelin blues (doubtful though I'm too tight) or something LOL.
PS I just bought another car but shoot me a PM with a price on yours
03-19-13, 12:08 PM
#1399
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Watching your vids make me wish I would have bought an FD instead of the e46 M3 (posted one on my FB and David Wampler tagged you in it), but since that is said and done and I'll probably never seriously track that... how competitive do you think the FC chassis is on a road coarse compared to an FD? Weight wise they're roughly the same +/- 100lbs and similar 50/50 distribution. I don't know the main differences between the suspension and wheelbase, aero dynamics, etc. though.
In my book the C5 z06 is the least expensive ticket for a fast reliable track car but I also think the FD is more fun to drive because it's the lighter, smaller and most importantly just feels right to me so that's why I stay with it but it's expensive to maintain.
03-19-13, 01:40 PM
#1400
I drove an FC for a few laps on track and it's a really neutral nice handling car but it was NA so it's really hard to compare it to an FD. Susp and aero are superior on the FD so when it's all said and done your best bet for a fun fast car would probably be the FD. I'm sure some FC guys would argue but I've yet to see an fast FC on track. There are very few FDs or FCs on track these days so it's really hard to compare cars.
In my book the C5 z06 is the least expensive ticket for a fast reliable track car but I also think the FD is more fun to drive because it's the lighter, smaller and most importantly just feels right to me so that's why I stay with it but it's expensive to maintain.
In my book the C5 z06 is the least expensive ticket for a fast reliable track car but I also think the FD is more fun to drive because it's the lighter, smaller and most importantly just feels right to me so that's why I stay with it but it's expensive to maintain.
.