Bugeye RX

Thanks, I'll give that a try. Poor neighbors drop and take cover everytime I shut it down!!!!!

Bugeye RX

http://www.youtube.com/v/EnMxdTKt0WI?fs

I burned up the trailing ignitor, any suggestion of where to get another some what reasonably priced???

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Love the fall colors tour! We'll need another one in a couple weeks.

You could always switch the good ignitor from the leading to trailing and then wire up an MSD box for the leading.

I forget what year dizzy you're running, I may have some ignitors. Maybe I'll make you a deal on that header and parts we were talking about. I'll try to remember to get those pics to you this weekend.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

just run ZERO split. meaning, the leading and the trailing are all fired at the same time. just wire it up so that the trailing fires form the same ignitor as the leading. done and done.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, I wouldn't do that. You're using a 1st gen dizzy, right? It has two J-109 ignitors, right? First of all, your engine will RUN FINE on leading only, so running trailing is optional since you're not controlled by emissions, nor boosting. Any other problems would be exhaust or carb related. Second, a stock J-109 ignitor is just strong enough to handle ONE coil. Hooking it up to two, it will live a short, unhappy (hot) life and die on you at an inconvenient time.

This actually happened to me while driving a friend's rotary B2000. It was wired up the way sirsickness suggested as one of the ignitors had died a long time ago (a local rotary shop converted and wired it up so don't ask). It burned up the other ignitor while driving and I had no shoulder to pull over to. That was inconvenient. Fortunately my friend was right in front of me, saw what was up etc. Long story short we threw a tested good ignitor in and I was able it drive it home for an ignition upgrade.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Take a look at the link in my signature (TFIDFIS). It uses GM HEIs for ignitors and
Ford TFI coils, no trailing and no pesky old j109s. Basically the same as Jeffs DLIDFIS
but using different components.

Bugeye RX

I'm running the Gen 1 dizzy like Jeff says, two J type iggies. Yeah lets make a deal on that! Right now I'm trying my 3 set of gears in the rear. Original 422 was like a light switch, the 377 were great for highway but lack that wholly **** factor from a stand still, today I'm trying the 390!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Hey, my MG Midget has the 377 gears out of a '79. Last time I had it up and running, it had an RB light steel flywheel. It felt like the rigt choice. I'd prefer 390 gears and a lighter flywheel, but I'll use a light steel flywheel again. They're easier to change out than a rear end.

Bugeye RX

Ok here what happened, I was driving home one night, and when I turned it off it back-fire so loud I thought it was a shotgun. It's back fire a few times before and I turned down the idle and it seem to go away till then. The next morning I tried to start it and nothing, just turned over. Long story short, the lead plugs were fouled. I figured I'd do a spark check and I used the good trailing plugs. That's when I found no spark on the trailing. I put new plugs in and it fired right up and drove fine, but the exhaust smell was heavier than normal. No biggy. Came home after a long ride, turned it off, no bang. Cool right! Next week I fouled leads again. They were black. I was figuring that the lack of trailing was leave unburned fuel and my be the cause of the fouling. Am I wrong again!!!!!!!!!!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Fouled plugs is a rich running carb. Back fire (or after fire) is an exhaust leak.

Trailing working would help reduce unburned hydrocarbons, but only up to a point. Carbs sounds too rich.

If you upgraded to DLIDFIS, it would reduce hydrocarbons even more than functioning trailing and stock leading alone, but again up to a cetain point.

Do you have an O2 sensor in your exhaust? Even a narrowband sensor and a cheap LED gauge can show where the carb is lean and rich (within a narrow range).

Anyway, I'd start with ignition since that's where you're having problems right now, then move to carb tuning and exhaust leak patching next.

Bugeye RX

Yeah I think I'll do the DLIDFIS upgrade in the future, but for now I'm looking for the quick fix so I'll replace the stock ignitor, fix the exhaust leaks (there easy to see now that I ran it) and rejet the carb fuel to 185. Then see what that does. I replaced the rear axle center section yesterday with a 390 set-up. Turned out to be pretty easy and I did it in place, 4 hours maybe. So far I like it better than the 377. I'll do some research on the DLIDFIS and throw in one of the air fuel mixture gauges. Thanks for the help. Dave

pjr

iTrader: (8)

I really like these cars.

How tough is it to drive? I mean, it's a very old suspension design...

Also, I guess it looses a lot of practicality by not having a top.

Bugeye RX

Not hard at all to drive, it's actually feels more connected to the road than most modern cars and is very predictable. And it does have a top and a heater.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Well, that helps a lot! Hopefully you'll get it out this week (supposed to be decent weather) before it starts to get way too cold.

Bugeye RX

I drove it Saturday for the last time this year and tried out the new rear gearing, it's way better! It's up on blocks now, I'm doing a new header and piping and will finish the interior thru the winter months!

Bugeye RX

I installed the new iggy and fired it up. Sure sounds better and did smell so rich! If the weather holds I might take it for another drive and see how it feels. I am also making another header and notice the front exhaust port is darker than the back. Might be an issue there?

Bugeye RX

Dam it was a shitty winter I did nothing but shovel. I can't wait to drive. I did check in on the car and all is well except for a collapsed EZ-UP. I should be ready for paint as soon as the weather permits. Just checking in.

Bugeye RX

Ok got an issue here. After the long winter I decided to firing it up. The thing started first try and ran great. I then went and install a new air cleaner assemble. That's when it got interesting. I removed the two velocity stacks from the webbers and bolted on a 7" x 5" a 4" K&N filter. The car started right up and idled great, but once I got on the gas it just bogged, would idle but after 1/8 throttle nothing but bog. I took off the air cleaner but still bogging. So I removed the enter air cleaner assemble and reinstall the stacks. Whalla, it runs great again. What do you thinks is going on, I need some type of filter, I don't want to just run open stacks. Any suggestion or advise is greatly appreciated,

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Those stacks might be getting you a lot of air velocity. Probably running too rich without them and flooding.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Did you oil the KN filter?

The normal velocity stacks don't show too much change on flow amounts on a flow bench at low velocities. Can you fit the stacks in the aircleaner assembly? They can be as close as 3/4" from a surface above them before flow is obstructed.

Bugeye RX

Hey John how are things going? I did not oil the filter it seemed pre-oiled when I got it. And yeah I think I might be able to stuff the stacks under the filter assembly they are only 2 1/2 inch high and the air cleaner is 4" deep. I'll give it a try. How is your project coming along? The ingintor and piping you gave me work out great, it actually runs a lot better. I still have a small exhaust leak but no big deal. Thanks again!

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

I stripped all the paint off the back deck of my B-E and hired a friend to do the body work so I can paint it again. When I painted it 5 years ago there were a couple spots I just didn't get perfect and it bugged me. It was like those two areas were the only thing I looked at, both probably the size of an orange.

He's making the deck perfect and I'll wet sand the rest of the car and repaint it. The paint got more abuse with the car sitting in the shop than it ever got on the road.

Engine is back in with the 5 speed, I'm waiting for about $300 worth of goodies from Moss to fire it up, stuff should be here Thursday. I'm torn between the existing Weber 40 DCOE and rebuilding one of my sets of SU's. I'm thinking the SU's will be a little better on the street after conversing on the British Car Forum.

I'm hoping for it to be back on the road this month. New interior, paint and an extra gear in the tranny!

billt

iTrader: (1)

Love your car! I had a 1974 MG midget and have a 95 FD now so I can appreciate just a little how much fun this car must be to drive around. I noticed we're both in CT, are you going to any car shows or Limerock this year? Thanks for sharing this project with us-Bill

Bugeye RX

Hey Bill thanks for the comments, I just got it all legal so I will be going to some local, NE CT. car shows and I would like to go to the rotary show down in Bridgeport as well. I've been driving it around town all the time and everyone is like what the F is that and this thing eats rear tires up!

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Would love to see some more pics and video. I bet she hauls.