Bugeye update
06-26-11, 08:34 PM
#376
The hardest part is starting. Once you've gotten over the initial hump, the rest begins to figure itself out. The time is drawing near when I will get started on the Midget. The GLC's exhaust will be done like tomorrow, then it just needs a waterpump and intake. That leaves little time to contemplate the Midget's build. I just have to keep telling myself the hardest part is getting started. The hardest part is getting started. The hardest part...
06-27-11, 10:41 AM
#378
argatoga, what did you do with your 6 port 12A? Also, I have some questions. How was your old exhaust set up? Did it have any kind of sensing tube to open the aux ports? What kind of power band did it have? Others who've driven 6 port 12As say they only have low end torque, but nothing up high. I've got a 6 port 12A I'd like to get going some day and after having seen how tiny the intake ports are, I'm going to port it some. I know the runners themselves are very small so I can't port all that much and expect a lot of flow, but a modest improvement would be nice. The goal is low end torque of a stock ported 13B and high end of a streetported 12A. Thanks.
06-27-11, 01:43 PM
#379
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The PO who did the swap welded the actuator ports closed so all the ports were always open. I was very gentle with the car as it has the stock rear end, but there was never a huge want of power (yes yes the street ported 13B I have in it now is quite a bit more powerful).
With the current engine I've had the same done (plugged not welded). I thought about setting up an RPM switch and a small bicycle air pump at one point, but it isn't worth setting up the actuators for such a light car (1,600lbs). Plus a small roadster like this should be revved like hell. :P
With the current engine I've had the same done (plugged not welded). I thought about setting up an RPM switch and a small bicycle air pump at one point, but it isn't worth setting up the actuators for such a light car (1,600lbs). Plus a small roadster like this should be revved like hell. :P
07-10-11, 03:34 PM
#380
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I could use a little more help!!! I decided to re-jet the OER carb since the car is running really rich. I bought the carb from Rotary Shack and asked if I could get a new set of jets. It came with 215, but I need a 185ish. But jets a never came and e-mails went unanswered so I found some on ZCC-DJM website and order them. Here's where it went bad. When I got the jets and went to remove the old ones only to find found out they are different. The new jets are threaded but the old ones push in button type. See pic! I call ZCC and guess what, never returned calls. So here I am, I can't get them from RS or ZCC. Does anyone know where I could get these!
07-10-11, 03:54 PM
#381
Those look like normal Weber jets. Wonder if they would fit? Those jets they sent won't work at all. They look like float bowl jets for a Nikki or Holley or many other carbs.
Measure some dimensions, I can grab a Weber jet and see if they are the same.
Measure some dimensions, I can grab a Weber jet and see if they are the same.
07-10-11, 04:57 PM
#382
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Thanks John, I took the measurement and the insert collar is .200 in dia and .200 high from the hex. The hex is 9/32. The collar is split for a spring fit. Let me know, thanks Dave.
07-12-11, 12:15 AM
#383
It measures exactly the same as a weber IDA main.
Be sure you don't bottom the jet in its hole in the E tube when you install it. Put it in the tube enough to hold it at then when you thread the E tube in you know the jet itself will is pushed up only as much as it needs as it touches the bottom of the hole.
Be sure you don't bottom the jet in its hole in the E tube when you install it. Put it in the tube enough to hold it at then when you thread the E tube in you know the jet itself will is pushed up only as much as it needs as it touches the bottom of the hole.
07-12-11, 10:58 PM
#384
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It measures exactly the same as a weber IDA main.
Be sure you don't bottom the jet in its hole in the E tube when you install it. Put it in the tube enough to hold it at then when you thread the E tube in you know the jet itself will is pushed up only as much as it needs as it touches the bottom of the hole.
Be sure you don't bottom the jet in its hole in the E tube when you install it. Put it in the tube enough to hold it at then when you thread the E tube in you know the jet itself will is pushed up only as much as it needs as it touches the bottom of the hole.
07-13-11, 12:07 AM
#385
IDA is a style of downdraft Weber. The Weber IDA, IDF and DCOE carbs all use the same jets. What I do for tuning is buy a bunch of 115 mains and go to the dyno with a drill index. You can drill out to the hole that gets you close to the AFR's you want. Then you compare the drill size in the index with a Weber jet chart and you only need to buy a couple sizes to fine tune.
I bought a bag of jets off ebay for cheap from these guys. They are one of the big Weber dealers but they don't use the name on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber...item53d4ed7da2
I bought a bag of jets off ebay for cheap from these guys. They are one of the big Weber dealers but they don't use the name on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber...item53d4ed7da2
07-16-11, 08:46 PM
#387
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I got the jets and it did the trick, runs great at speed now. I do now notice it runs rich, gurgles, at idle. What is the fix for this? I also have to admit I liked the tone when it ran rich, had a nice bubbly rumble at speed, but it's much more snappier now.
08-11-11, 08:36 AM
#388
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hey bugeye, just wondering how much one of these cars would cost? there is one down the street from me looks like new paint on it but no bumpers for sale, wondering what would be a fair price 
I love your car!
Mage
I love your car!Mage
08-11-11, 03:50 PM
#389
I've got one (with a closer to stock driveline). I've seen them offered from free all the way up to $27K. If it runs and drives, probably worth at least $2500 depending on the body. Check Hemmings Motor News, there are a few that are restoration worthy for sale and some totally restored with running gear updates.
You may also want to head over to the British Car Forum, there are guys over there that have forgotten more than I'll ever know about them and I did a total rotisserie restoration, later 1275 engine, Datsun 5 sp, disc brakes, etc etc.
You may also want to head over to the British Car Forum, there are guys over there that have forgotten more than I'll ever know about them and I did a total rotisserie restoration, later 1275 engine, Datsun 5 sp, disc brakes, etc etc.
08-12-11, 09:54 PM
#392
Tossing a rotary in them puts them into a different catagory on value. It will make it worth more to certain people and less to others. In general a Bugeye with parts from the Midget/Sprite line will bring a lot more money. My car has later Midget disc brakes, a later 1275cc engine and a Datsun 5 speed. All these mods actually add to the value because they make the car more driveable while keeping with the original blood line. The 5 speed solves a lot of problems the stock car has and gives you an extra gear without cutting anything on the chassis, it can be undone but you would be stupid to want a stock trans again if you are going to drive it.
08-20-11, 06:05 PM
#394
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Bugeye's seem to be getting worth more and more and I only saw 6 of the at a regional British car show so they are getting rare. I have over 5 grand in this and I still need paint. Also I have a clutch issue as of today. I was cruising with my buddy, him in his early Vet, and as I was racing him thru the gears all of a sudden, no clutch. I jammed it in second and limped home. I checked the slave and master cylinder and everything looks good. It throws the clutch fork but when it hits the pressure plate the pedal get hard and does disengage the clutch, feels like it's binding. I can see the plate fingers move and the throw out bearing is spinning and looks fine. Any ideas whats going on here?????????? Could the plate be stuck to the flywheel and pressure plate. I hope I don't have to remove the motor, glad I waited for paint!
08-22-11, 07:09 PM
#395
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I took the motor and tranny out to find out what's up with the clutch. Only took 4 hours. Come to find our the disc shatter on the fly wheel, Good thing the pieces bound up, the flywheel surface was untouched. So much for the Nappa clutch I'll have to go with something stronger. Any suggestions?
08-22-11, 07:18 PM
#396
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I took the motor and tranny out to find out what's up with the clutch. Only took 4 hours. Come to find our the disc shatter on the fly wheel, Good thing the pieces bound up, the flywheel surface was untouched. So much for the Nappa clutch I'll have to go with something stronger. Any suggestions?
08-27-11, 07:39 PM
#397
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Thanks Ve, I did get new clutch and it's all good now. Just batten down the hatches now, expecting the hurricane tomorrow. Figures!!!! I want to ride.
09-07-11, 09:16 PM
#398
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Blew the cheesy nappa clutch during a 9K gear change. Had to remove motor and tranny, took about six hours. Gave me a chance to look at all my welds one last time, I hope! I put around 1000 miles on it and all looked good.
