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Waterless coolent ?

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Old 07-03-12, 01:22 PM
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Waterless coolent ?

Is any one running waterless (evans) was thinking about giving it a try and wanted to see what u guys thought
Old 07-04-12, 11:23 AM
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Search my name, I am running it with no problems
Old 07-04-12, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7Zamboni
Is any one running waterless (evans) was thinking about giving it a try and wanted to see what u guys thought
My thoughts..........it has alot of advantages. But it's expensive (~ $40/gal) and you'll have to purge the system completely of water. And even though it's less likely to leak, if you ever do have a leak, EVANS isn't carried at every AUTOZONE.
I run as much water to traditional coolant as possible along with every other cooling mod except Evans. Including AI. If I was tracking my car I'd probably give it a go. I guess if I had issues I'd consider it more for the street. But even in the recent triple-digit weather in my area I'm running between 96 and 99 C. with the A/C going.
Old 07-04-12, 08:46 PM
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+1 to what Sgtblue said.

I used to run it. Some people swear by it. the biggest benefit in my book was being able to run it at 0 pressure.
Old 07-04-12, 10:44 PM
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I was thinking of giving it a shot I am starting to see temp around 170ish thought it might help cool it down some and I could also remove the ast
Old 07-04-12, 11:28 PM
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^you can remove the AST anyway, just need a 2-piece t-stat neck and the FC filler neck.

170F isn't hot enough for operating temp.

I run Evans and love it, we've recently converted my brother's FD and a friend's FD (both which see road race duty) and a few customers as well. It's the bomb diggedy for many reasons, but don't convert just based on temps
Old 07-05-12, 01:43 AM
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It is not just bc temps Also bc of running at 0 psi just a thought while I have the car apart
Old 07-05-12, 01:50 AM
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i guess i never really figured there was a huge benefit to running 0 pressure.

the 2 cars i retrofitted seemed to run slightly warmer after switching to evans versus running coolant/water.

one engine lost a coolant seal while running the evans about a year after retrofit and the burned byproduct was pretty nasty even when compared to burning conventional glycol coolant. (yes even with 0 pressure it still will go into your engine, in fact i find these viscous coolants to be more prone to develop leaks than glycol based coolants. heard horror stories about dex-cool coolant aka red/orange coolant? yeah...)

i guess if you're trying to save a buck and keep using borderline radiator hoses for a few more years it may be beneficial but it also costs more than new hoses so.... push! drawback again is availability so i do not recommend evans to customers, there is no point. i just never saw the upsides to using it that so many people claim. it still leaked, it didn't cool any better and you can't go buy it off the shelf.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-05-12 at 01:57 AM.
Old 07-05-12, 05:49 AM
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^I've heard that EVANS will generate slightly higher indicated temps. Not because the engine is running hotter, but because it absorbs the heat easier/better.
Old 07-05-12, 08:46 AM
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I recommend doing your research if you are thinking of switching, there is a LOT of misinformation about this product out there.

Benefits:

(1) as mentioned, can run with zero pressure
(2) lifetime coolant---no need to change, ever
(3) non-aqueous---no water, no corrosion of cooling system
(4) pulls more heat out of the combustion chamber, thus making you less likely to detonate

Guys who race motorcycles actually advance their spark timing a few degrees (based on #4) to make more power..... I say leave your tune alone and enjoy the benefit.

There are many many reasons to run this stuff.
Old 07-05-12, 11:03 AM
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I don't think it's worth it. Maybe for a car that ONLY sees the track and nothing else, sure. But for a street driven car it just isn't worth the money and hassle.
Old 07-06-12, 03:31 PM
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Additional Reasons to use Evans

I use it. Indicated coolant temps WILL show a little higher. Spot temps at the critical components, ie near the spark plugs, should theoretically be lower due to the lack of hot spots and steam bubbles in the system. Can't prove it.

You will never come off the track or the highway and have your cooling system 'puke' due to after boil.

You can come off the track or highway and open the radiator cap immediately . There is NO reason to do this, but it is kind of a cool party trick. Just ask the guy at the next pump over 'Is this where you check the oil?' as you unscrew the rad cap. You should see people trying to stop you from removing the cap.

You will never have a radiator hose blow out (blown heater hose anyone?) It will merely leak and give you a warning.

I had a belt break on a 100*+ day on the freeway A/C on max with no exit and no shoulder. All the belts on the car were taken out and shredded. I drove about a mile to an exit (LBJ ramp onto Central Expressway exited at Forest Lane). The temp pegged at 260* on my VDO and the S5 oem temp gauge clearly read "ReBuild!" The coolant did NOT boil over. I let the car cool for a while. I drove it nearly a mile to an Autozone and bought new belts. I drove off with the A//C working and no obvious ill effects. This was in 2007. Still on the same engine. 162,000 miles.
Old 07-06-12, 09:34 PM
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I have to admit it's tempting. Changing my coolant in the spring is part of my routine and not any big deal. and the more efficient cooling is good. But the zero pressure angle is particularly attractive, as that means less stress on coolant seals.
This thread has my small brain thinking over it again. If only it were a little easier to source. I suppose changing out ALL hoses would be the thing to do if you changed. But how do you purge the system...including the heater-core?
Old 07-09-12, 02:22 AM
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evans all the way. its has many advantages as stated above.
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