Quick backstory/specs: 93 rx7, stock except: PFC, downpipe, r1 oil coolers, RB dual exhaust, SR motorsports Radiator
On my second track day I blew my rear rotor, i suspect fuel starvation (was nearing half tank) and high IAT (were around 75C as i was sitting in the grid for a while on stock intercooler).
I pulled my engine/tranny with the help of rotaryressurection's great guide. Tore short-block apart to find my rear rotor had a blown apex seal, seal tumbled and screwed up rotor and housing.
So here my plan:

1. Rebuild using atkins oring kit +all oem springs+ Goopy apex seals
2. Fuel filter replacement and possibly relocate (should i relocate?)
3. Water injection kit install (already purchased) Devils own progressive, will tap at intake elbow
4. Manual power steering conversion (likely looped method, but might do full conversion if time allows)
5. Eibach pro kit springs (already purchased)
6 Fast acting IAT (anyone have a guide)
7. OMP removal and run premix
8. upgraded SMIC intercooler

Questions I have:
1. I am happy with the power of the car but would like the simplicity, reliablity and lower heat of a single. Are there any small turbos i could run on stock fuel + pfc. or should i just run simplified sequential/maybe non-sequential
2. During rebuild i have read on prepping the irons by roughing them up slightly to retain oil, are there any similar techniques for the rotor housing
3. my center iron shows about .0035" of side seal wear, the limit is .004 would you guys ditch the iron (i'm picking up another non running shortblock this weekend hoping that is has a better center iron (i got the shortblock really cheap))
4. Undecided on air pump removal, i already own greddy pulleyes but would probably need to source an idler pulley



I know thats a lot of questions but would love some feedback/pointers/corrections form you guys. Thanks in advance

 

#1. I doubt it. Even at the same psi, I think most singles will require fuel mods.
That said, the PFC allows you to delete all emissions, which will reduce solenoids and vacuum hoses by about 50%. That alone will simplify things with the twins.
#2. No. You can have Goopy resurface your housing though.
#3. Your removing power-steering but "undecided" on the airpump?
You won't see any performance gain, but the room and weight-loss is nice. Pineapple (and some others) offer a relatively inexpensive idler to replace the AP pulley and keep full belt contact on the waterpump. Even if you get the under-driven (larger) Greddy pulleys, waterpump pulley contact is compromised. IMO that's a PITA that can be avoided easily with the idler.

The fast-reacting IAT is nice. Most are plug-n-play. Many of us also re-locate the IAT. In my case I moved it post IC, pre-throttle-body (and pre-AI nozzle) to avoid heatsoak.

 

Thanks a lot sgt. I was hesistant on the air pump because of the slipping you said. I think im gonna remove and run the greddy pulleys until I get the pineapple idler. Won't be reving much during break in. Also im gonna do fast iat. Any harm in leaving it in stock location post wi (water only)

 

Just know that with slippage you have a tendency to overtighten. That can stress the pulley bearings, water-pump and possibly the front main bearing of the engine.
Search for yourself, but IIRC generally speaking Howard Coleman, the guru of the AI section, recommends placing it before the nozzel so it doesn't mess with tuning. Soaking the nozzel with water would tend to skew readings. Hopefully your water injection is just for additional safety...for cooling, reduce knock and carbon control....and you're not tuning with it.

FWIW, I'm running an M5 nozzle (~300 whp), water-only, post IC, pre-TB with the IAT pre-nozzle. It's boost-activated at ~1.5 psi. I'm on stock coils, stock heat-range plugs, PFC, with OMP and pre-mix. Zero issues over the last couple years. Knock was reduced ~ 50% over the rev range and cooling temp spiking after hard periods of boost was almost eliminated. Despite the extra oil the plugs stay cleaner longer.

 

anyone know what size belt will work once i remove power steering?

 

Yep.. no belt! But you'll have to delete the a/c as well
If you want to keep the a/c then i'm not too sure. But someone here will know!

 

Pulley kits, Idlers and belts for eliminating A/C Pulleys & Belts (93+ RX-7)

 

bump, anyone know how to remove PS and keep AC. worst case keep pump and gut it?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...eering-133442/

 

what's the benefit of removing PS? is steering more sensative?.

 

Iv used both on fc's and no ps is a world of diff. It has way better feed back and helps the feel of the car and what it wants and needs and helps to pull the wheels strait when exiting the corners hard. It also saves little bit of weight, frees up a little hp, and lets the engine rev a slight bit quicker. The biggest draw back is that if ur not smooth and in positive control of the car at all times then it makes the car harder to retake control and much easier to wreck

 

1. Rebuild using atkins oring kit +all oem springs+ Goopy apex seals
2. Fuel filter replacement and possibly relocate (should i relocate?)
7. OMP removal and run premix

Take a look at pineapple racing coolant seals they handle much higher temps than atkins and stock
Maby bring fuel filter up and mount at the top pf strut tower for easy access maby?
Omp remove is usually personal opinion or the result of one going bad and someone cutting corners or replacement. Much better off using factory setup if its working properly and still mix somn like 1oz/ quarter tank

 

IMO, there is no good reason to remove PS on a streeted car. Despite claims, I suspect most are removed because something went wrong and the owner was too lazy or cheap to fix it. The decision to remove rather than replace is simply rationalized. Sure can't help resale value either.
PS removal on a track car is different.