Hey,

I have a 86 N/A and thinking about rebuilding the engine. My reason is because it is blowing white smoke on cold cranks. Do you guys know why or the reason? Also should I buy any special tools to help the rebuild go a little smoother? I have never rebuild a rotary before.

 

From reading around here it seems a lot of rotaries smoke on cold start. Does it keep smoking for more than like 5 seconds after? Then you might have a problem, if not, then it's probably just being a rotary

*disclaimer this is just my understanding so far*

 

welcome to the board.

i'm usually a little cautious when I hear "white smoke" - especially at this time of the year. so go ahead and answer a few questions first.

how does the "smoke" smell?
are you running low on antifreeze periodically?
does the gauge indicate that the engine is running hotter than it normally does?

also, check to see if your cooling system is over-pressurized when the engine is running.

 

If its a sweet smell in the smoke that is coolant rings. Another good way to check also is if you get a leslie funnel put it on the car and start it when its cold and if you see anything that looks like champagne bubbles then thats coolant seals as well and would require rebuild. That funnel is great for burping the car as well.

 

Hey guys

The smoke only last for about 5-10 sec if I drive everyday. If the car sits for a week or so it last for about 4-5 mins and goes away. It does not smell sweet it smells like exhaust.

I checked the anti-freeze it not low and the car does not run hot.

I am just worrying because I have a rx-8 that is down and out because of low compression and do not want my rx-7 to go down.

what about tools for the rebuild do you know of any tools I would need to buy?

Welcome JAP rotor I am new to the group as well thank for the help.

 

... and with the 4 to 5 minute instances, how much smoke are we talking about and is that at idle or while driving?

just needed an LOL-moment.

a good set of metric sockets and wrenches, a decent ratchet handle. the rest of the tools needed to disassemble/reassemble an engine are probably not NEEDED if you are only planning to do this once. you should be able to borrow from AutoZone and/or have a professional shop of some sort help.

- torque wrenches (proper reassembly, using a reference for the torque specs)
- impact wrench (the main pulley)
- a truck/diesel repair shop (to pull the flywheel and then get it replaced at 300 ft-lbs)
- a large flathead screwdriver and/or possibly an acetylene torch (disassemble the e-shaft for cleaning)
- dial indicator
- feeler gauges
- a hand-held rotary tool (cleaning, grinding miscellaneous things)

this was just off the top of my head for a quick look at what you'll need. there are more comprehensive lists on the board if you look for them.

 

I think you dont need to replace the water seals, because my fd, smokes white when I dont start the car in like a week, but then it goes to normal, the next day I start it fully cold out because I live in washington, and I get no white smoke at all, I asked a mechanic here in WA and he said all rotaries smoke white when not started in a while. Unless you start it and it smokes white, and continues to smoke white without changing to grey, then your seal is broken.

 

Thanks guys a lot of help! I needed it and the smoke never turns gray and yes it goes away during driving and if I drive daily it does not smoke.

 

That smoke is condensation in the exhaust being burned out(which is normal ).

If you were having a serious problem your car would be smoking like a banshee when you start it and sputter until all the coolant is burned out of the combustion chamber.

Youd also have significant loss of coolant. My NA emptied its coolant to what appeared bone dry overnight after being topped off when the coolant seals went.

 

Okay understood good to know. Thank You I will watch out of that. I hope it does not get that bad anytime soon.

 

Anyone knows of a good supercharger for the 86 N/A?

 

hey i have the same problem but the smoke is most likely coolant cuz it smells sweet but the engine runs perfectly fine. to be honest it consumes a bit of coolant about maybe a little less than 10 oz of coolant a week, also given that i drive it everyday to work and school. but this has been going on since about a year ago. anyways, is there anyway to stop the coolant seals from deteriorating as fast or are they gonna go all of a sudden???

 

How much cost a full rebuild? rebuild A to Z the engine?

 

Hey I do not know if you can slow it down but I would think your coolant seal is going to go sooner or later. I just putting two and two together from what everyone has told me. Good luck

 

I have been looking to pay for a rebuild and it can cost $1500-4000 or higher it depends on what your getting done and if your removing and replacing the engine.

 

Atkins rotary has kits that start at $600 includes apex, side seals and internal gaskets. The rotor bearings never really go bad and are seldom replaced. U can get a intake gasket kit for about $75 Atkins also sells a good rebuild video.

The flywheel but is hard to remove you'll need a powerful impact gun 1000lbs removing.

 

I heard from 4 people around my area. Atkins rotary is a horrible place. Just throwing that out. I never went to them, Jeff's automotive is where I go. Amazing guy.

 

Atkins sells Camden kits now. Expensive and very unsophisticated but they do work. I am personally going a custom supercharger route with a real Eaton roots blower whereas the Camden ones are silly two piece units that are very inefficient.

 

Atkins actually owns Camden. They have put the most research into any rotary supercharger.

 

I think you would benefit from some more research. Atkins has a lot of experience in rotary power vehicles. They have been around for a long time for a reason.