That really pisses me off. Although I own an FD (my parents), I know how hard money is to come by (I've actually paid back half the cost of the FD already, just the other half left). Is everything else alright though? The FD? Are you OK? If you catch those people, you need to sue them for emotional distress!!!!!

 

Hey, Robin, Hope you read this. I saw this post on craigslist. http://richmond.craigslist.org/tls/756846336.html

It kind of sounds like the box of tools you had.

 

Alright, so I can't figure out if I'm just blind or if it got deleted or what, but I can't seem to find the Richmond Friday Nights Starbucks Meet thread...
Dave it was good to see you again on Friday, I went down research road a couple times today to look for that shop you were telling me about but I couldn't find it, and there were no 944 shells to help me out, Lol. What did you say the name of that place was again?

 

Starbucks thread: https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/weekly-richmond-va-friday-night-starbucks-meet-new-location-533164/page6/

and what you're looking for is
Mitchum Enterprises
621 Research Rd
Richmond, VA 23236-3929
804-379-1239

 

Thank ya twice-times!!

 

Are you the dave with the post on craigslist for all the 7 parts? If so whats left and how much

 

No actually, I'll have to go look at that.

I'm seriously thinking of parting my 7 from the previous page instead of selling the whole thing. I'd also bekeeping some of it for spare parts and then doing something radical with the shell.

 

Bah. And I just sold that LS1 too... Lol... Let me know if you do part it out. I'd like to talk to you about your motor. Do you think the housings are warped?

 

I said "radical" everyone is doing LSX swaps these days.
I was thinkin more like 20B or possibly a E36 M3 engine and trans (if they'll fit)
or peripheral port that motor - although I wouldn't be able to drive it on the street if I did that

I dont think the housings are warped, as it holding compression just fine and the pressure it build up in the coolant system also remains till pop the rad cap and release - I'm talking a week or 2 later it's still pressurized
BUT it's something you would definitely be wise to check, I have spike the temp guage quit a few times

I did rive around a little yesterday and she seemd to run fine though

 

If you part it out what you want for that optima red top

 

$20, it's not brand new anymore, but it's been very reliable

there will be a complete parts and pricing list eventually when the time comes

for right now I still need to move from one house to the other stuff

 

OOoo! OOoo!! 1UZ! 1UZ!! Or 2JZ! PLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASE!?!?!

Is there a way to check for warpage without disassembling the motor? Or would it be visible?

Yikes! You're still moving?

 

I'll buy it off you this weekend if you want to part with it. Doesn't have to be new as long as it works.

 

Thats another possibility I have considered, and it's been done but not alot. I'd much rather go with BMW inline six over the Toyota inline six though.
no, the motor must be disassembled and checked with a micrometer.

and

yes still moving endless boxes with the black FC, I haven't even gotten to the attic yet
I'll need to rent a truck (again) for the last of the big stuff - like the hot tub

sorry still using the car
see above post

 

 

So i started to take off my intake to clean it. got down to where the fuel injectors are and noticed that the rear rotor's intake is black while the front one looks metallic with a hint of brown.

Rear Rotor



Front Rotor



so what is this indicative of? Need a rebuild or that my mmo/seafoam didn't get the rear rotor?


Oh and in case you havnt noticed i done broked my gaskets
so what do i need to replace them, like a kit or individual gaskets, and can i get em at autozone?

 

the gaskets you should probably get from Ray at Malloy Mazda

 

whats the estimated cost?

 

Should not be too much for just that single gasket. Are you taking the LIM off? If I remember correctly that one is mettalic and holds up a lot better, but if you are there I would go ahead and replace. I would not worry about the carbon, probably has to do with the EGR or something. Just worry about getting the 5/6th ports working as long as the engine is running ok.

 

Well im not a mechanic or rotary expert so would you mind what the LIM is and why i would be removing it.

Also i made me a new technique for unsezing the 5th and 6th port without taking off that last piece of intake.

1) find a small piece of hose
2) fill it full of MMO
3) Hold finger over end
4) jam hose into intake as far as possible
5) let your finger off of the hose to release the MMO
6) do that 2-3 times
7) let sit for an hour
8) use a low pressure compressor to articulate the actuator until its free
9) if it doesn't unfreeze then you gotta open her up!

ill probably take the rest off anyways to check my apex seals. Anything else i should do while im in there?

 

Lower Intake Manifold

I wouldn't put any more than a few psi to those actuators. That's all the pressure they normally see.

Try a real man's penetrating oil too... go down to napa and ask for "Knock'er Loose":

http://youtube.com/watch?v=TQtt9YIdrSg

You're not going to see anything through the intake ports. The way to check your apex seals is a compression test. You can only tell if they're still there by looking at them through the exhaust ports... and you know if they're still there or not by the way the car runs.

 

personally I like PB Blasters, smells like weasel **** though

 

I think Vasoline does pretty well as penetrating lube as well. You can get it at your local CVS.

hahahahaha.



I've got myself a new chica, i think I'll take her down to Starbucks one night. She hates mazda though =[ (she doesn't like Honda's either so I think I'm good there)

She loves the Audi TT though, I don't know if she's a keeper or not!!!!!

 

i wish i could make it to the meet this friday but wont be able too seeing that i cant get the gaskets for 4 days and that my wallet was stolen :/. I got some PB from napa for only 3.99 and you can actually reach trough the ports and feel the rotor, just dont do it while someone is cranking (hint its not a good idea). I got everything loose and its in the cleaning stage. the injectors are soaking in a bit of mmo, intake ports have been sprayed with pb, ports on the engine cleaned, sanded a bit to remove carbon, and cleaned again.

Before I forget, while the actuator is in the down position, what way is the 5th and 6th port valve thingy sposed to face. Id hate to have them backwards and have to take the intake apart again :P

Can anyone think of what else i should do while im down here. Im replacing the OMP lines with copper seeing that i broke 2 of them while gently removing them.

 

I think I'll bring the BMW out to S-bux tonight