maybe S5 springs differnet than S4

 

bump, this thread doesn't need to fall onto the second page.

On a second thought, does anyone know where to purchase a set of lower pillow ball collars for the FC front struts? I have a set of HKS adjustable pillow *****, but no collars that fit... Of course HKS doesn't sell parts from the kit. I have emailed Tein with no response...

 

The only thing I found was the Tein set, which is $340

http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=558

 

Spencer,
I purchased a set of mystery camber plates (turned out to be K2RD's) that were missing the collars as well. What I finally did was make a bushing myself. Forgive me for the inpreciseness, but I believe the shaft of the FC strut measures somewhere around 18mm in diameter. I then used a piece of 3/4 ID tubing and turned down the ID to match the shaft size, cut to about 1 inch in length, and tapered the upper edge to allow greater range of motion on the bottom of the pillow ball without striking the mounting plate.
Anywho...how goes your car?
-Jayson

 

Man, I was just readin over some of the old posts. We used to talk a lot of smack!

I am so much cooler than I used to be.

 

no, you are not.

 

because you don't drive an rx-7 anymore????


i ran the 'new' g-force layout for the first time a few weeks ago. badass! we REALLY should have a get together sometime.

 

The only reason I don't drive an RX-7 anymore is because the one I own is in a million pieces.

Of course, when I get it all back together, I still won't be able to drive it because it won't be street legal.

 

tell your dad to get a bigger trailer then

 

Alright for those of you that have changed your front struts, how EXACTLY did you get the strut back on. I am having a hard time getting the bottom of the strut assembly high enough to meet up with steering knuckle.
And yes the spring is compressed plenty.

 

Niburu, wish I could help but I have no experience with suspension.

I do have a question for everyone though. Long story short, I found a FC (S4) the other day that ended up being for sale. The guy said it has an 'electrical problem.' He has torn the dash apart trying to find it. I think it may be flooded, I know it is not locked, I can turn the motor by hand. Body is in good shape, very straight, needs paint badly though. I think the interior will be good when I get it back together. He said he would take $500 for it. Do you all think that is a good deal?? The odometer has a hair under 200k.

 

Hey people. My name is Jon, from the Maryland Guys thread.

I will be in Richmond at the end of next month and looking for something to do. Anything go on Fri thru Sunday?

Or if your really crazy wheres Karaoke?!

J Gandy

 

Nib - being off the ground, the suspension is completely uncompressed. You should actually have to lift the hub/control arm slightly to get them to align. I fear that perhaps you have the spring hat/perch installed in an incorrect manner or somethignn like that. Did you do a camber plate swap or anything like that?

 

The control arm was actually too high, I did finally get it on yesterday, and got the other one on in about an hour.
HOW: I put a floor jack under the control arm and disconnected the sway bar link which then allowed me to lower the steering knuckle assembly into position.
Once that was all bolted up I raised it back into position and reconnected the sway bar.
New problem: the nut on top of the rear strut assembly won't thread all the way down it threads a quarter of the way down and starts spinning the shock shaft an won't go down any further.
Now what do I do? (Same problem with removal but I used a disc grinder to cut the bitch off.)

 

I forgot what it was like without air tools! spin the bolt on as far as you can and lower the car to get the tension off the strut, once all the weight is bearing down on the bottom of the strut you should be able to tighten that nut without it spinning. I hope that helps if not i may suggest a impact gun, which you would have to limp it to a shop, or not sure how far you live away but i have one. I live about 13 miles from richard bland college. Hope that helps, ill be doing struts on my dads vert next week.

 

Nope, I had the wheel back on with the full weight of the car on it and the shaft kept of spinning
I got Tokico Illuminas and it says in bold 1 inch letters on the accompaning documents not to use an impact gun, most likely you'd mess up the internal gas valving or seals and also that voids the warranty.
What I did do was clamp a crescent wrench to the very top of the shock shaft to hold it and turned the nut with the ole box wrench - a 1/4 turn at a time - it took a while but I gotter dun!

 

well, i registered for the june 12th autox. i found that the rod that connects the omp to the throttle was never installed when i put the other engine in my car, sooooo im hoping that was the cause for burning oil at high rpm's. im going to go disconnect the lines going to the intake from the omp and make a run real quick to see if that will fix it, if so that **** is coming off and premix i go.

im DYING to autox. i did g-force the week before last, and i miss racing so much. the bike is fun and all, but it just doesnt do it for me like a car does.

 

thought id let you guys know i fixed my turn signal issue, i replaced the turn signal/hazard light circuit board in my cpu with one i got from the mazda mark site. im pretty sure that dissassembling my cpu was one of the more nerve racking things i have done so far. but 40$ for a new circuit is a hell of a lot better than a 800$ one from mazda.

 

Everything from Mazda for stock replacement is expensive, it's almost always better and cheaper to get the performance parts elsewhere.
The great strut instalation write up should be showing in 2nd gen section soon.
I can't for sunday!

 

Does anyone here know someone with a towtruck that will cut me a deal. I need to have a car towed from the northside of Richmond to Ashland later this week. $75 for a 20 minute tow seems outrageous....or maybe I am just cheap. Any help would be appreciated!

 

You can't what for sunday?!?!

 

I can't wait for sunday
typo
my bad

 

That's pretty much what they charge. Damn scam artist - I rate them right up there with cops and ambulance chasers.

 

75 bucks doesn't sound too bad....

When you take into account:

1: Driving to location of the car
2: Time to hook up to the car
3: Time driving to new location
4: Time dropping car and stowing equipment
5: The price of the tow truck.
6: The price of gas
7: And of course, PROFIT....

Operating a tow truck is not cheap.

 

thats what i was about to say. the biggest cost is gas. my friend's dad has a tow truck and he has hooked me up a few times. its never been under $25 around town though. you MIGHT be able to find it cheaper somewhere else, but that does sound about right.